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RACP Failure After Plates

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  • SricoSuave
    replied
    I have a similar issue with my e46, the left rear subframe mount has ripped itself from the chassis and I have found tears in the upper deck in the trunk area. Does anyone know of an experienced shop or person who can perform the necessary repairs in the bay area?

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
    Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
    Yes, yes and negligible.

    They're 100% worth it. Makes the rear end so much more stiff due to the solid contact point.

    NVH increase is minimal so long as you use OEM diff mounts. As soon as you go poly or harder than OEM, the diff will transmit its lovely whine straight into the cabin.

    Leave a comment:


  • pawa_k2001
    replied
    Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by beefaroni View Post



    A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

    Is this it?

    https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...pside-beam-kit
    Yep, that ties the rear 2 mounts, you also want to include the kit that ties that to the front 2, which is this one: https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcement

    You can easily contact him on Facebook, look for Cayn Plotkin. I'll also ping him to join here in case he has not yet. He was pretty active on m3forum with informative posts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Syfon
    replied
    Originally posted by beefaroni View Post



    A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

    Is this it?

    Yes, that is the next step in the reinforcement process.

    Once the topside reinforcement is done, you should also do the front mount extension so all 4 mounts are tied together and strengthened. I also installed the 6 point brace.

    https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcement

    https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...32379371454599

    Leave a comment:


  • beefaroni
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.

    The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.


    A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.

    Is this it?


    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

    Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.
    Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.

    The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jersey_M3
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.
    Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

    What are the part # for the new bolts
    They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.
    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 04-13-2020, 12:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbonem3
    replied
    Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post

    What are the part # for the new bolts
    It's not a BMW part.

    Leave a comment:


  • DiscoWagon
    replied
    Originally posted by Dash1 View Post

    Racewerkz in Burbank, CA. Great folks!
    Oh nice! They're the ones who did the plates on my car too. Always curious to find new good shops though.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jersey_M3
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
    What are the part # for the new bolts

    Leave a comment:


  • Dash1
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
    This route sounds very appealing as I wouldn’t want to drop the subframe again!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dash1
    replied
    Originally posted by DiscoWagon View Post
    Which shop did the recent welding repairs?
    Racewerkz in Burbank, CA. Great folks!

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
    Oh nice that's really cool. Makes the install much simpler.

    Leave a comment:

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