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RACP Failure After Plates
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I have a similar issue with my e46, the left rear subframe mount has ripped itself from the chassis and I have found tears in the upper deck in the trunk area. Does anyone know of an experienced shop or person who can perform the necessary repairs in the bay area?
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Yes, yes and negligible.Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View PostOff topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
They're 100% worth it. Makes the rear end so much more stiff due to the solid contact point.
NVH increase is minimal so long as you use OEM diff mounts. As soon as you go poly or harder than OEM, the diff will transmit its lovely whine straight into the cabin.
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Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
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Yep, that ties the rear 2 mounts, you also want to include the kit that ties that to the front 2, which is this one: https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcementOriginally posted by beefaroni View Post
A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.
Is this it?
https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...pside-beam-kit
You can easily contact him on Facebook, look for Cayn Plotkin. I'll also ping him to join here in case he has not yet. He was pretty active on m3forum with informative posts.
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Yes, that is the next step in the reinforcement process.Originally posted by beefaroni View Post
Once the topside reinforcement is done, you should also do the front mount extension so all 4 mounts are tied together and strengthened. I also installed the 6 point brace.
https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...-reinforcement
https://cmpautoengineering.com/produ...32379371454599
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Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.
The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.
A link would be much appreciated. I have welded in plates and am looking for the next step. It sounds like what you have been referencing is it.
Is this it?
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Talked to Cayn today. He recently redesigned the kit so that you just reuse the stock bolts. My kit from him was one of the first ones he made (I did mine almost 2 years ago) and my kit came with a drill, drill guide and longer bolts, his new kits don't come with those because they are no longer needed after redesign.Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post
Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.
The instructions that he includes (at least he used to in printed binder form) with the kits are very comprehensive, so take a look.
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Damn it, I am about to reassemble and dont see any bolts.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.
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They came as part of the hardware included with the kit. That said, I can ask Cayn what you can buy off the shelf in proper size at a hardware store, because I didn't note the size and didn't measure them.Originally posted by Jersey_M3 View Post
What are the part # for the new boltsLast edited by mrgizmo04; 04-13-2020, 12:15 PM.
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Oh nice! They're the ones who did the plates on my car too. Always curious to find new good shops though.Originally posted by Dash1 View Post
Racewerkz in Burbank, CA. Great folks!
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What are the part # for the new boltsOriginally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
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This route sounds very appealing as I wouldn’t want to drop the subframe again!Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
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Oh nice that's really cool. Makes the install much simpler.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
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