Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

RACP Failure After Plates

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Gt4
    replied
    Originally posted by pawelgawel View Post

    How bad is the floor that your decided on the entire panel??

    YOU always go full out with your parts and upgrades! BRAVO!
    Really bad!!!

    Long story short, previous owner went to a local shop for an inspection/quote to fix the RACP and the shop quoted him 10000$ CAD to replace the RACP and offered to buy the car for 8000$ CAD instead!! His friend than contacted me and offered me the car cause he knew I was able to fix it myself and that I would do a complete restauration of the car.

    Car is a 2001/02 HEA package so one of the first E46 M3 in Canada.

    The car previously had Turner plates welded. Than, when spot weld start to pop, someone tought it would be a good idea to fix it with undercoating… So problem got worst and it look like this now:
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • pawelgawel
    replied
    Originally posted by Gt4 View Post

    Last fall, dealer quoted me at $2500CAD+tx. Finally, I ordered it 3 weeks ago thru same dealer at $1500CAD+tx!! haha

    Just got a new welder, first time I will try it will be on this RACP job!
    How bad is the floor that your decided on the entire panel??

    YOU always go full out with your parts and upgrades! BRAVO!

    Leave a comment:


  • Gt4
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

    How much was that just out of curiosity?
    Last fall, dealer quoted me at $2500CAD+tx. Finally, I ordered it 3 weeks ago thru same dealer at $1500CAD+tx!! haha

    Just got a new welder, first time I will try it will be on this RACP job!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Gt4; 02-23-2023, 09:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nate047
    replied
    Originally posted by Gt4 View Post
    If anybody needs to replace the entire RACP on his E46 M3 soon, there is only ONE new panel left at BMW Germany. That’s what my dealer told me this morning when I pick up mine:
    How much was that just out of curiosity?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gt4
    replied
    If anybody needs to replace the entire RACP on his E46 M3 soon, there is only ONE new panel left at BMW Germany. That’s what my dealer told me this morning when I pick up mine:
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
    Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
    Lovely quality but i feel the shifting now on the SMG is so much harsher. I'll switchback to OE Subframe bushes in he future if I can be bothered.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kcalhoun27
    replied
    Originally posted by freezingair View Post

    I see, thanks. got it so it is totally possible to install the Vincebar or cmp bar without removing the subframe. I may do them in two steps first install lower plate and then save money for installong the top bar later. Does it waste labor time by your experience, thanks.
    Cant speak to the CMP, i did the vincebar myself so thats what i know about. I dont think youll save much labor or money doing them seperately. The plates will require removing the subframe and the vincebar will be much easier with it removed. the amount of work that goes into each invidual job is quite a lot, adding them together is going to be advantageous in the long run.

    its a big job but once its done you should be good to go. As so many have said before, ‘buy once, cry once’

    Leave a comment:


  • freezingair
    replied
    Originally posted by Kcalhoun27 View Post

    you cant do the plates with the subframe in the way. You might as well drop it and inspect the entire area to be sure what needs to be done. The vincebar is all in the trunk and cabin, but it would definitely be easier with the subframe out of the way for drilling up through from the bottom.
    I see, thanks. got it so it is totally possible to install the Vincebar or cmp bar without removing the subframe. I may do them in two steps first install lower plate and then save money for installong the top bar later. Does it waste labor time by your experience, thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kcalhoun27
    replied
    Originally posted by freezingair View Post

    Hi is it the same for the Vincebar installation? We don't need to drop the subframe for that ? In this case if I still want to do lower racp plate, it feels I need to have two quotes of the job. One Vincebar and one lower plate. If racp does not have crack, can I just install Vincebar?
    you cant do the plates with the subframe in the way. You might as well drop it and inspect the entire area to be sure what needs to be done. The vincebar is all in the trunk and cabin, but it would definitely be easier with the subframe out of the way for drilling up through from the bottom.

    Leave a comment:


  • freezingair
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    The new bolts are longer so they can reach to the top cups. There is a guide included that threads into place where existing bolts are (remove existing bolt, thread the guide in) to help guide the long drill, but that does not require dropping the subframe. You do need to get under the car since that work is done from the bottom.
    Hi is it the same for the Vincebar installation? We don't need to drop the subframe for that ? In this case if I still want to do lower racp plate, it feels I need to have two quotes of the job. One Vincebar and one lower plate. If racp does not have crack, can I just install Vincebar?

    Leave a comment:


  • SricoSuave
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

    Hit up TC Design in Campbell. That's pretty bad but they're specialize in this stuff and have dealt with way worse.
    Just sent them an email, thanks man

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by SricoSuave View Post

    These are the best photos I could get without a lift. It appears the previous owner tried to repair the subframe based on the reinforcement plates and welds in the upper trunk area. I believe the left rear subframe mounting point has broken loose from the chassis because there is a loud clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Thanks for your help its much appreciated!
    Hit up TC Design in Campbell. That's pretty bad but they're specialize in this stuff and have dealt with way worse.

    Leave a comment:


  • SricoSuave
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

    Yes post pics and I’ll determine who to refer you to.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    These are the best photos I could get without a lift. It appears the previous owner tried to repair the subframe based on the reinforcement plates and welds in the upper trunk area. I believe the left rear subframe mounting point has broken loose from the chassis because there is a loud clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Thanks for your help its much appreciated!
    Last edited by SricoSuave; 09-09-2022, 01:39 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by pawa_k2001 View Post
    Off topic but regarding CMP Solid Subframe Raising Bushings. Anyone run them? Are the worth it? How is the NVH?
    Ton of us are running those. Do not run them if you are stock ride height as they are designed for lowered cars.

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by SricoSuave View Post
    I have a similar issue with my e46, the left rear subframe mount has ripped itself from the chassis and I have found tears in the upper deck in the trunk area. Does anyone know of an experienced shop or person who can perform the necessary repairs in the bay area?
    Yes post pics and I’ll determine who to refer you to.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X