Originally posted by Cubieman
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DME: Misfiring on all cylinders 1-6 without Cylinder Cutout
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I typically buy genuine....Over the years, I've seen a difference in some electrical, but mostly there is a difference in hoses/WP's and gaskets that I have personally experienced.
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For the most part, you really can't go wrong because genuine will take into account any updated parts and have a tighter quality control. Until I did repairs under warranty, I didn't really understand this but they do take parts back, send them back to the manufacturer and they will go through a few updates typically. Water pumps are a great example. There are multiple variations so I'd say you're on the right track. Sometimes experience is the only way to figure it out.Originally posted by jet_dogg View PostI always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.
Cubie what was your issue again?
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Can You break a tps just by remove it? ive done a itb refresh and bough tps unscrewed.
Im getting 3 cylinder missfire codes without cutout, swaping plugs and coils did not make a difference
will try to adapt the throtle pedal, if doesnt work will have to take a look on the butterflies if the are positioned 100% correct after rebuild
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I don't know man I always thought that was an inherent m3 trait like the clunk lmao.
My car did that since new, except in reverse. I never depress the clutch as I'm decelerating btw.
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When getting on or off throttle the vehicle jerks or "bucks", the lower the gear the more apparent. It feels as if driveline slack would be the culprit but as far as I understand the play in my driveline is normal. When I'm crusing at in town speeds I must come on/off gas pedal smoothly or else you feel it buck every time.Originally posted by jet_dogg View PostI always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.
Cubie what was your issue again?
This is issue is most prevelant and annoying in First or Reverse gears creeping along at driveway speeds. With just the clutch let out and gas pedal not pressed it behaves as if you were jabbing the gas pedal on/off, on/off etc.
It doesn't happen all of the time but generally happens after I drive then let the car sit a few hours, then when I leave the driveway in Reverse the vehicle bucks unless I ride the clutch.
The previous owner installed a "Pedal Commander" device which piggybacks the gas pedal wiring and is basically for throttle mapping on the fly. I wonder if the "Pedal Commander" even when turned off might be having a negative effect, I'll have to rule that out.
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I always buy genuine for peace of mind. I have seen some variances even between oe and oem variants but what do I know.
Cubie what was your issue again?
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I bought VNE from FCP euro. LT warranty. Cheap enough to keep one in the glove box as a spare if needed. The stock air box is so easy to pull I could do it on the side of the road if needed.
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I've always read that Hella is the TPS, CPS, and Oil Level Sensor manufacturer.Originally posted by Cubieman View PostI there any consensus on any of the TPS sensors whether or not it is necessary to buy genuine? I always buy genuine but know I am throwing money away with some items.
I will have my airbox out soon and would like to see if a new TPS set does anything for my issue.
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I there any consensus on any of the TPS sensors whether or not it is necessary to buy genuine? I always buy genuine but know I am throwing money away with some items.
I will have my airbox out soon and would like to see if a new TPS set does anything for my issue.
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Thanks! Same with me, no TPS codes.Originally posted by Bimmer man View PostGlad you got this fixed. It was very annoying when it was happening to me!
For anyone else reading, I did not have any TPS related codes, only misfires on all cylinders.
FWIW: Earlier this year (JAN), the top TPS was throwing codes, causing the SES light to come on about every 500-700 miles. These were specific TPS codes. I replaced the TPS on the front and codes and SES went away. I used this TPS and installed it on the TA, to test, and car immediately ran better. I actually ran it at the track this weekend with the old TPS on the TA while I waited on the new one to arrive.
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Glad you got this fixed. It was very annoying when it was happening to me!
For anyone else reading, I did not have any TPS related codes, only misfires on all cylinders.
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TPS and CPS are wear items, consider changing those on a periodic interval to avoid issues like this.
Fuck I had a coil go bad on 4 or 5 times in the past, trash ass bremis.
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Any ticking? That'd be hg, good guess too I think. Otherwise, vanos solenoid/plate?
Not likely to be newish plugs/coils. Plugs dont all go at once anyway. What code numbers? I like fuel pump too, but wouldn't that be under hard accel?
You're basically at that mileage where you could(should) start replacing everything anyway.Last edited by Tbonem3; 05-26-2021, 09:03 PM.
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I replaced the one up top back in Jan of this year, it was throwing codes and the SES, but did not affect drivability.Originally posted by Bimmer man View PostI was plagued by this for well over 6 months. Replaced spark plugs, coils, fuel filter, made modifications using the binary and nothing worked.
Finally I replaced both throttle position sensors and haven’t had the codes in over 4 months. It used to happen at least once during every drive.
Did you have same (similar) codes and symptoms that I have?
I ordered two (TPS), maybe the one I replaced failed, and I am also going to replace the one under the intake. I also ordered a FP and Filter, just so I have it. The codes are vague, so several "upstream" components could cause the cylinder misfires, but seems like it would more likely be a result of one component (TPS/FP/Actuator/sensor) etc etc) failing, affecting 6 cylinders, as opposed to 6 components (6 plugs/6 coil packs etc) failing at once....Last edited by Flat-Six; 05-27-2021, 05:53 AM.
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