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Anyone Use Rogue Engineering Front Differential Bushing Bolt?

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    Anyone Use Rogue Engineering Front Differential Bushing Bolt?

    I'll be re-bushing the differential next, and have questions: anyone have experience using Rogue's bushing/bolt kit? It's common to see complaints about stripping the front diff bushing bolt or the bolt hole when replacing the front bushing. Is it really so easy to strip this unit, or more likely operator error?
    Thanks!

    #2
    I don't have any experience with Rogue kit itself, but will add my $0.02.

    Rogue kit provides not just an oversized bolt, but it also requires their oversized bushing (part of the kit) through which the bolt has to fit. So the diff has to come out to drill out and tap the hole in the diff housing, and their oversized bushing needs to be pressed in. I don't know how well their bushing lasts, but if you ever have to replace it, I think you are "stuck" using that same bushing, I dont know of other alternatives for runner bushings that can take the larger diameter bolt. Theirs is a urethane bushing, so it will be a bit more noisy, if that matters.

    I know a lot of guys "fix" the front bolt diff housing by using a timesert. Properly done, it will hold as well as original threads. Also requires removing the diff to drill out and tap the hole and then timesert it. Original bolt (if clean threads, or at least oe bolt) can be reused, original bushing can be reused. I'm actually thrashing a "spare" diff right now around autox/drifting/track, that has been timesert-ed and it's holding up great.

    All that said, majority of the causes are user error. It is somewhat of a tight area to work in, and diff is a bit frustrating to move around. It is heavy, lining it up is a bit of a pain. Folks don't use the time and don't have patience to do it carefully. There is a specific sequence of events that reduces the chances of stripping (like whether to line up and tighten front bolt vs rears). TIS spells it out (screenshot).



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    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 05-31-2021, 10:13 PM.
    Youtube DIYs and more

    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      #3
      I have it. Actually I may be the one who gave them idea. I stripped the diff and re tapped bigger hole. I called several places explaining what I did and that I need an aluminum insert with bigger hole machined. Rouge was the only place that told me that’s a cool idea and they can easily do that. Some time after they started selling those. It was like 5 years ago and the bolt is still there.

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        #4
        My understanding is due to space constraints and the bushing it's very easy to start the bolt off cross-threaded thus ruining the threads.

        Regards

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          #5
          Originally posted by rbg View Post
          I stripped the diff and re tapped bigger hole. I called several places explaining what I did and that I need an aluminum insert with bigger hole machined. Rouge was the only place that told me that’s a cool idea and they can easily do that. Some time after they started selling those.
          If the diff was drilled and tapped, then why not using a Timsert and be able to use stock bolt and bushing? It's safer going with the Timesert as if it is crossed threaded again then just remove the Timesert and install new one; your method: if it stripped again then what?

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            #6
            When I installed mine, I used a floor jack to hold the diff at proper level, then a large pry bar to rotate the diff into position so that I could easily hand thread the bolt to start it. I installed the two rear first, but did not tighten so I could have better movement to align the front bolt. Just take your time and go slow by hand until you know bolt is fully engaged with threads. Using the pry bar, or 2x4 to gain proper angle was critical for me in order to hand thread.

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              #7
              Originally posted by sapote View Post

              If the diff was drilled and tapped, then why not using a Timsert and be able to use stock bolt and bushing? It's safer going with the Timesert as if it is crossed threaded again then just remove the Timesert and install new one; your method: if it stripped again then what?
              Absolutely, everyone can use any method they prefer!

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                #8
                I just found out my front differential mount has been stripped. Want to use Time-sert any one know the length of the blind hole? Or any one use Time-sert and what kit they used?

                Much appreciate any help


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