Oil pan gasket-less?

[sapote]

The transmission and differential don’t have gaskets, so why not just use the same sealant instead of the leaky gasket?

[FBloggs]

I experimented with permatex hylomar anaerobic sealer on a vw gti oil pan.
It being an iron/iron interface. Did not leak.

[Anri]

The transmission and differential don’t have gaskets, so why not just use the same sealant instead of the leaky gasket?

Sapote,

How are you going to align the transmission torx bolts to the oil pan ?
By removing the gasket say ~1.2mm (I need to measure it) it may be a little tricky.
I doubt you will be able to turn them as smooth as when the gasket is there but
you should try.

Oil pump pick up will also get closer to the pan bottom by 1.Xmm but that will not
be something to worry.

I see no problem with OEM with just little layer of compound love on top
and if job is done properly I see no problem at least 30k+ miles till the next round.

Every 3-4 oil changes the 10mm pan bolts must be checked if any are loosen from
vibrations, heat cycles etc..if one get little lose....its over, it will start as a sweat.

Regards,
Anri

[Obioban]

The transmission and differential don’t have gaskets, so why not just use the same sealant instead of the leaky gasket?

My diff has a gasket 😬

Really, though, why do you want to use sealant instead of a gasket? I always prefer a gasket when possible-- less cleanup next time you're in there, less chance of stuff floating around in the engine (sealant blobs), and, in my experience, less leaks. I don't run sealant in my diff, I don't run sealant in my valve cover... neither leaks, and it makes servicing them quicker/easier/cleaner.

[sapote]

Early Diff used gasket but later ones used sealant.

It’s more work to apply sealant properly but it seal better. Owner of Toyota with sealant bonding oil pan don’t have any leak at over 200k miles while Bmw old gasket shrinking and leaked.

But yes, I need to look at the transmission bolts issue.

[Obioban]

Early Diff used gasket but later ones used sealant.

It’s more work to apply sealant properly but it seal better. Owner of Toyota with sealant bonding oil pan don’t have any leak at over 200k miles while Bmw old gasket shrinking and leaked.

But yes, I need to look at the transmission bolts issue.

My 2005 diff came with a gasket, and I've used a gasket both times I had it apart... and zero leaks. If the gasket lasts long than the built into cover mounts, that's long enough for me!
(and, similarly, if the oil pan gasket lasts longer than the rod bearings, that's long enough for me-- which it seems to)

[Anri]

Sapote,


One must understand the design first, Toyota's or Honda's their
engines uses very short oil pan L4 or V6. The shorter the oil
pan the less it will be prone to warp during work out. Go ahead
and try to reseal a Datsun 240 inline 6...oil pan...one must use
a caulking gun with Permatex "The right stuff" and that will not
last for long time...till leaks again...

S54 as being inline 6 oil pan is way to long and it will not take
too much warp in time.

Another major factor is the slant configuration of the block
and the Oil drainage channels which return the oil direct to the
right passenger side oil pan long bath. On any BMW l6 oil pan
gasket start leaking always from the passenger side, never
driver side...also under braking also the oil

At last how many Toyota corolla's have you seen at the track
to be beaten to death as we all do with out BMWs. ? Heat is
a major factor and the length of the oil pan and the oil bath
being on the pass side are the major factors. Civic's race cars
don't think they are bone dry under neath...everything will leak
if abused hard.

Again, nothing wrong with OEM gasket done properly with
layer of Compound it will last very long time..believe me.

Regards,
Anri

[cobra]

I've had great luck with sealant. Seems like gaskets always leak eventually. Most auto/motorcycle manufacturers use a CNC sealant applicator to make the process as consistent as possible and these bonds last for the useful life of the motor.

As for the type of sealant. I've traditionally used Permatex Ultra Black, but recently started using Yamabond 4. It has a much longer work life before it starts to skin over (1hr as opposed to a few minutes with the Permatex), which makes it much easier to apply and take your time during installation. It also does better should there be any contact with fuel.

One thing worth considering is removal. Once a sealant is used, it's very hard to separate the two halves. Whereas a gasket is easily separated and gives a nice gap to fit a blade or pry bar.

Does the E46 oil pan have threaded holes to assist in removal of the oil pan?

[sapote]

One thing worth considering is removal. Once a sealant is used, it's very hard to separate the two halves. Whereas a gasket is easily separated and gives a nice gap to fit a blade or pry bar.

Does the E46 oil pan have threaded holes to assist in removal of the oil pan?

Agreed on the effort to remove the pan in this case.
It's also true that S54 will need new rod bearings less than 100K miles, and so using gasket is the right thing to do. But whenever I decide to drop my 325iT pan, I will consider using sealant instead as I have no reason to ever need to drop its pan.

I don't think S54 pan has threaded holes for jacking it off from the block.