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SMG Pump Rebuild DIY

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by snaponbob View Post
    Sorry for the time gap. I have should surgery coming up Tuesday, and a LOT had to be done before I became "out of commission".

    The 2006 roller I bought to replace a wrecked manual 04 M3 (Damn tire wall !!) was VERY apart when I loaded on my trailer to haul from Annapolis, Md to KC, Mo. Gearbox was where the passenger set used to be, and stuff was piled up everywhere in the passenger compartment and truck. I have years and years of experience with manual 46 M3s, but never so much as SAT in an SMG car, let alone work or drive one. Thank god for Google an YouTube !!!

    Anyway, as a former track car, it already had been a relocated pump car. None of it was attached to ANYTHING. Fortunately the hoses were still attached as they should be, but I still had NO clue as ANYTHING about reinstalling everything. BUT, as of a week ago, it runs and drives. An Autel MD808 was used to run the setup on the pump system and that went well. A guy I met on FB endurance races one out of Oregon and was a real asset as I moved along. And, he is supplying an flappy paddle assembly that will allow me to run my 310mm steering wheel and 3" hub extender.

    So, for now, it seems to need some sort of sorting because in just putting around the neighborhood (no tags yet) I am NOT happy with how the SMG system works. Sluggish and lethargic in "normal" driving, and when switched to 6 bars it is better, but the rev matching is still clumsy. It has a genuine CSL SMG computer (decoding the VIN shows it being out of a 2002 Euro market real CSL SMG car) and I don't know what "secrets" reside in it. The DME has NOT been reflashed so I am not sure how well they are talking to each other.

    The car will sleep in my shop with my 2001 slicktop Sport Touring now mechanically fully M3 converted until mid/late Feb. The shoulder will have to heal up some. This will give me plenty of time to research things. I do have a spare pump assembly that came with the car, so I may play with that in the spring.
    If the ECU doesn’t have the CSL shift parameters in it but the SMG ECU is CSL then you’re going to have bad shifts.


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  • snaponbob
    replied
    Sorry for the time gap. I have should surgery coming up Tuesday, and a LOT had to be done before I became "out of commission".

    The 2006 roller I bought to replace a wrecked manual 04 M3 (Damn tire wall !!) was VERY apart when I loaded on my trailer to haul from Annapolis, Md to KC, Mo. Gearbox was where the passenger set used to be, and stuff was piled up everywhere in the passenger compartment and truck. I have years and years of experience with manual 46 M3s, but never so much as SAT in an SMG car, let alone work or drive one. Thank god for Google an YouTube !!!

    Anyway, as a former track car, it already had been a relocated pump car. None of it was attached to ANYTHING. Fortunately the hoses were still attached as they should be, but I still had NO clue as ANYTHING about reinstalling everything. BUT, as of a week ago, it runs and drives. An Autel MD808 was used to run the setup on the pump system and that went well. A guy I met on FB endurance races one out of Oregon and was a real asset as I moved along. And, he is supplying an flappy paddle assembly that will allow me to run my 310mm steering wheel and 3" hub extender.

    So, for now, it seems to need some sort of sorting because in just putting around the neighborhood (no tags yet) I am NOT happy with how the SMG system works. Sluggish and lethargic in "normal" driving, and when switched to 6 bars it is better, but the rev matching is still clumsy. It has a genuine CSL SMG computer (decoding the VIN shows it being out of a 2002 Euro market real CSL SMG car) and I don't know what "secrets" reside in it. The DME has NOT been reflashed so I am not sure how well they are talking to each other.

    The car will sleep in my shop with my 2001 slicktop Sport Touring now mechanically fully M3 converted until mid/late Feb. The shoulder will have to heal up some. This will give me plenty of time to research things. I do have a spare pump assembly that came with the car, so I may play with that in the spring.

    Leave a comment:


  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by snaponbob View Post
    When I bought my SMG M3, it came with a spare pump assembly. Short of installing it, is there a way to determine its 'health"?
    Have you done the relocation to the drug bin? If not would recommend as it makes changing pumps really easy.

    You could take the electric motor off to visually inspect the windings.


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  • oceansize
    replied
    Originally posted by snaponbob View Post
    When I bought my SMG M3, it came with a spare pump assembly. Short of installing it, is there a way to determine its 'health"?
    Outside of checking the sensors with a ohm meter and supplying voltage to the pump motor the answer is no. The real health check is how well the pump builds and maintains pressure and unless you have a fairly complex bench tester setup then you must attach to the car to check.

    Leave a comment:


  • snaponbob
    replied
    When I bought my SMG M3, it came with a spare pump assembly. Short of installing it, is there a way to determine its 'health"?

    Leave a comment:


  • Good
    replied
    Originally posted by PowerSax View Post
    All right, just finished this project with the help of this post. Big thanks again to Good.
    Couple observations.
    The viton O-ring set I ordered had different sizes than I needed for the solenoids. Ended up just buying the solenoid kit off eBay.
    The internal hydraulic pump on the spare pump only the middle piece had engraving on it. The outers were smooth. If yours is the same, maybe you want to pre-mark it. Hopefully I put together right. I studied these pictures hard.

    Finally a question. The electric motor came with a packet of super lube. I assume this is for the coupler between the motor and pump? I could not find the pentosin grease that was recommended. I do have a bit of moly grease for my bikes diff. That should take the heat i am thinking.
    Again, thanks for the pictures and words on this for the rest of us. I'll edit once I see if it works!

    The grease you want to use is Sach's Clutch Spline Grease. You can find this below:



    You will want to put enough to lube up that coupler piece while still allowing the motor to have little resistance.

    Leave a comment:


  • PowerSax
    replied
    All right, just finished this project with the help of this post. Big thanks again to Good.
    Couple observations.
    The viton O-ring set I ordered had different sizes than I needed for the solenoids. Ended up just buying the solenoid kit off eBay.
    The internal hydraulic pump on the spare pump only the middle piece had engraving on it. The outers were smooth. If yours is the same, maybe you want to pre-mark it. Hopefully I put together right. I studied these pictures hard.

    Finally a question. The electric motor came with a packet of super lube. I assume this is for the coupler between the motor and pump? I could not find the pentosin grease that was recommended. I do have a bit of moly grease for my bikes diff. That should take the heat i am thinking.
    Again, thanks for the pictures and words on this for the rest of us. I'll edit once I see if it works!

    Leave a comment:


  • tedbm3
    replied
    I’ve been looking for this since I saw it on the old forum, thank you,

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Thanks for the write up.

    Leave a comment:


  • oceansize
    replied
    I don't mind helping people out though. On the old forum when I ran into problems all I received was crickets (and my questions were specific and well laid out). That was when I realized most owners and forum members didn't know jack shit about SMG or weren't willing to help. In fairness the SMG system is tough to grasp at first glance due to requiring INPA (or DIS) and then within INPA there is a lot of information around the system. Coupled with the amount of misinformation that exists from old boards/users. Plus only so many of us have done the relocation and without relocation it is so much more time consuming to work on.

    Also there are a lot of components that make up the system but none are all that tough to grasp once you dig in.
    1. Accumulator
    2. Motor
    3. Pump
    4. Reservoir
    5. Actuator
    6. GPS
    7. Clutch slave
    8. Hydraulic fluid
    9. DME
    10. Solenoids
    11. Sensors
    To me the pain point on the SMG system is the situation of GPS vs compression spring vs actuator failures. There is not a simple way to diagnose what is at fault or to test those without yanking stuff out. If someone knows a way chime in.
    Last edited by oceansize; 06-23-2021, 10:00 AM.

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  • Good
    replied
    Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
    Great, now we can consolidate all the smg problem threads into this one lmao.
    Yeah, I will say it was pretty funny to come back to the forum after being inactive and on the first official day of summer to find the top 3 or 4 bumped threads to be SMG help classics haha.

    Leave a comment:


  • TexaZ3
    replied
    Terrific write up! Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • jet_dogg
    replied
    Great, now we can consolidate all the smg problem threads into this one lmao.

    Leave a comment:


  • PowerSax
    replied
    Perfect timing.
    I was thinking of rebuilding the spare. You sure have helped this along. Appreciate you (and your time) for doing this.

    Leave a comment:


  • big,JON
    replied
    This is amazing! Thank you!

    Leave a comment:

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