Arizona Smog Test - Failed

[Yooliseez]

Bump?


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[Yooliseez]

Are you saying you replaced the SAS parts and that monitor is now reset? I also did that, and that monitor reset after 2 drive cycles by the dealership. As mentioned earlier, I'm not certain whether or not the EVAP monitor actually reset, or whether the smog guys passed the car even though the EVAP monitor was not reset and ready for testing. AZ allows cars this age to test if only one monitor shows not ready.

Here's what I learned from this experience with AZ smog test, YRMV: DO NOT reset any fault codes you find before getting smogged; do not disconnect your battery before getting smogged; keep the car somewhere cool overnight, so the engine coolant temp is ~122 degrees when you do that morning cold start drive cycle; if you can find a BMW specific drive cycle procedure, use it;

The problem with my car turned out to be the DMTL pump in the right rear wheel well receiving a random erratic voltage current, causing it to not show ready for testing. That issue was described by BMW factory rep as an "operational fault" and it never showed a fault code on the dealer's scanning device or my Schwaben scanner.

Aside, recognizing that we all would rather maintain or repair our cars on a frugal basis, we tend to avoid local dealerships. Nearly everyone has had a poor experience with a local dealership. That said, my hat is off to Arrowhead BMW in Glendale, AZ and Mark Lauer in the service dept. Everyone involved went above and beyond in dealing with me and my car's issues. They kept the car for one week, finally resolved the issue, had a company employee drive the car to the smog station where it passed, and the total cost was surprisingly within budget.

Good luck with your problem, and keep us posted as you go.
Steve

I failed CA smog due to Secondary air system and cats, I preformed the drive cycle with cold start and the cats cleared. However SAS did not, the next morning upon cold start the Air pump was not turning on. I replaced the pump, hose, and egr valve attached to motor. I now have been trying to get the secondary air system to ready every morning with cold starts and have been unable to do so.



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[old///MFanatic]

All I know is the smog folks and their hand-out instructions for the drive cycle cautioned against resetting fault codes and/or disconnecting the battery. I haven't yet had time to check fault codes with the Schwaben, but am curious to see what it shows. Doesn't matter now since the car is registered!

Well I’d guess that’s because for most who don’t know how to manipulate and do a drive cycle it resets everything and starts from scratch.

[BubbaTree]

Yes immediately prior but otherwise why not? This was actually the only way I’ve been able to get car ready to set monitors last 3-4 times now.

All I know is the smog folks and their hand-out instructions for the drive cycle cautioned against resetting fault codes and/or disconnecting the battery. I haven't yet had time to check fault codes with the Schwaben, but am curious to see what it shows. Doesn't matter now since the car is registered!

[old///MFanatic]

Here's what I learned from this experience with AZ smog test, YRMV: DO NOT reset any fault codes you find before getting smogged; do not disconnect your battery before getting smogged

Yes immediately prior but otherwise why not? This was actually the only way I’ve been able to get car ready to set monitors last 3-4 times now.

[BubbaTree]

Hello I’m having issues getting my SAS monitor to clear on my 2002 m3. I’ve replaced the pump, hose, and valve. However I can’t get the monitor to ready. I’ve done cold starts for the last week and no luck I’ve also reset codes using schwaben ob2 scanner all monitors ready with 1 drive cycle besides SAS. Were you able to find out what the issue was? And or can anyone provide help with my issue? Thanks


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Are you saying you replaced the SAS parts and that monitor is now reset? I also did that, and that monitor reset after 2 drive cycles by the dealership. As mentioned earlier, I'm not certain whether or not the EVAP monitor actually reset, or whether the smog guys passed the car even though the EVAP monitor was not reset and ready for testing. AZ allows cars this age to test if only one monitor shows not ready.

Here's what I learned from this experience with AZ smog test, YRMV: DO NOT reset any fault codes you find before getting smogged; do not disconnect your battery before getting smogged; keep the car somewhere cool overnight, so the engine coolant temp is ~122 degrees when you do that morning cold start drive cycle; if you can find a BMW specific drive cycle procedure, use it;

The problem with my car turned out to be the DMTL pump in the right rear wheel well receiving a random erratic voltage current, causing it to not show ready for testing. That issue was described by BMW factory rep as an "operational fault" and it never showed a fault code on the dealer's scanning device or my Schwaben scanner.

Aside, recognizing that we all would rather maintain or repair our cars on a frugal basis, we tend to avoid local dealerships. Nearly everyone has had a poor experience with a local dealership. That said, my hat is off to Arrowhead BMW in Glendale, AZ and Mark Lauer in the service dept. Everyone involved went above and beyond in dealing with me and my car's issues. They kept the car for one week, finally resolved the issue, had a company employee drive the car to the smog station where it passed, and the total cost was surprisingly within budget.

Good luck with your problem, and keep us posted as you go.
Steve

[Yooliseez]

Hello I’m having issues getting my SAS monitor to clear on my 2002 m3. I’ve replaced the pump, hose, and valve. However I can’t get the monitor to ready. I’ve done cold starts for the last week and no luck I’ve also reset codes using schwaben ob2 scanner all monitors ready with 1 drive cycle besides SAS. Were you able to find out what the issue was? And or can anyone provide help with my issue? Thanks


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[BubbaTree]

Finally passed emissions test. The dealership volunteered to take the car to the emissions testing shop and it passed. No one seems to know if it was tested with 1 monitor (evaporation) or if all monitors finally reset. Before returning the car to the dealership initially, I replaced the SAP pump, air hose and kombi valve, which seems to have reset that monitor. The local dealer opened a case with BMW which found an unstable current to the DMTL pump. It showed no fault codes and the dealer had no known good pump to substitute. Pump wiring is known to be good, so I'll probably replace the pump ...but not today! In any event, the car passed and registration is renewed. Thanks for all the help1
Steve

[BubbaTree]

You can have 1 monitor not ready in Arizona. If evap is the only not ready monitor then you’re good to go.

Yeah, that's my understanding, and I plan to retrieve the car today. Thanks to everyone for your advice.

[M3AZ]

Thanks for the response. I'm not too good at this stuff, but I'm wondering if that relocated kit, i.e. the sensor, wiring, etc, could have failed somehow, resulting in either the evaporation or sap monitor being unable to reset. That question seems moot since the dealership is now saying that the SAP is reset, but not the evap? In any event, they are now talking about replacing the DME. Looks like I may be in the market for a used DME as well as someone to code it for this car!!

You can have 1 monitor not ready in Arizona. If evap is the only not ready monitor then you’re good to go.

[WOLFN8TR]

“If your BMW has not yet completed the EVAP Monitor”

( Is the Gas Cap in good condition? )

This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F). Let your BMW cool down overnight, and begin the drive cycle process the next day.

(Make sure you have between 1/4 and 3/4 fuel in the gas tank. The EVAP test will not run while your BMW's gas tank is full or near empty)

( Do not go over 3000 rpms )

- Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
- Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. - Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
- Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
- Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

If all other emissions systems are functioning properly, completing the drive cycle above should set the "readiness flags" required to pass the smog check. It will not hurt to perform the drive cycle 2 or 3 times before the smog inspection.

[BubbaTree]

Just trying to help but look through this thread regarding the IAT starting around post #10
https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...4666-karbonius

Thanks for the response. I'm not too good at this stuff, but I'm wondering if that relocated kit, i.e. the sensor, wiring, etc, could have failed somehow, resulting in either the evaporation or sap monitor being unable to reset. That question seems moot since the dealership is now saying that the SAP is reset, but not the evap? In any event, they are now talking about replacing the DME. Looks like I may be in the market for a used DME as well as someone to code it for this car!!

[lvm3sm46]

Just trying to help but look through this thread regarding the IAT starting around post #10

https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/main-forum/e46-2001-2006/94666-karbonius

[BubbaTree]

The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.

The dealership has had the car for a week now with no success. I don't know how many cold start drive cycles they've done. They are keeping the car in their A/C service shop overnight before doing a drive cycle, but still no success. They were to open an engineering case with the factory on Friday and I expect to hear from them today.

Can anyone comment on my earlier question regarding the relocation of the IAT sensor? I installed the Turner kit several years ago with no issues. Since AZ requires a smog test every 2 years, and the car has previously passed, I'm assuming it's OK. Any advice is appreciated.

[BubbaTree]

You're going to have a hard time getting the SAP monitor to set in Phoenix during the summer when it rarely gets below 80 at night. I had to run an AC duct into my garage to cool it overnight to below 70 degrees. The next start it set.

The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.

You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.

The latest info from the dealer is that the EVAP and the SAP monitors are both still not ready. For kicks, I'll see where they store the car at night to help cool it down. Thanks!