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Arizona Smog Test - Failed

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  • BubbaTree
    replied
    The smog guy didn't dyno the car; all he did was connect their cable to the car for 5-6 minutes with the engine off. When I got back in the car, the lights I mentioned above were on. They put a widget called Ready Checker into the OBD port, and instructed me to drive as usual until the widget showed a green light. In the smog shop, the light was yellow ( not ready ) by the time I got home, 8 miles or so, the light was completely out. Restarted the engine, and the instrument cluster warning lights were gone.
    So, maybe I'll Schwaben for fault codes, but not clear them, if that's the approved next step? I found some old instructions about doing drive cycles on the freeway, off there freeway, etc. Is that worth pursuing? This car has never had this kind of issue before.
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • old///MFanatic
    replied
    I was going to ask the same thing. If your state/shop still uses the “treadmill” that might cause your lights.

    Also as mentioned the M3 had port communication issues somewhat sorted out from dealership software update early on. Agreed, you might want to check it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slideways
    replied
    Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post
    The real puzzle here is that there were no cluster lights when I handed the car over to the smog tech. He had the smog cable connected to the car with key on, engine off, for about 6 minutes. Afterward, those lights were on, and he announced the failed communication. After a couple of drive cycles going home, the lights went out, and I'm assuming the car is now OK to test again. Assuming it passes next time, I'll check for faults and report. Thanks to all!
    Did he put the car on the dyno? That can cause a few lights to come on. Also, a malfunctioning steering angle sensor can cause error lights plus OBD communication issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Reading faults won't clear your emissions monitors. Totally fine to read them and see what's going on.

    Clearing faults will clear the monitors, so don't do that until you've passed.

    Leave a comment:


  • BubbaTree
    replied
    The real puzzle here is that there were no cluster lights when I handed the car over to the smog tech. He had the smog cable connected to the car with key on, engine off, for about 6 minutes. Afterward, those lights were on, and he announced the failed communication. After a couple of drive cycles going home, the lights went out, and I'm assuming the car is now OK to test again. Assuming it passes next time, I'll check for faults and report. Thanks to all!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jimbo's M
    replied
    To the OP, IIRC there was a DME update that addressed the issue of not being able to communicate with whatever they "talk about". Perhaps you should send a dealer your VIN and see if you have that update.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jimbo's M
    replied
    Originally posted by sev View Post
    arizona has smog tests?!
    Yes, but it's only for the Phoenix and Tucson metros.

    Leave a comment:


  • sev
    replied
    arizona has smog tests?!

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  • Estoril
    replied
    I don't know AZ emission testing - but doubt DSC and brake errors are read or disqualify. Failure to communicate with the OBD or an "Not Ready" error will usually result in a failure.

    Read your codes and see what is engine/emissions related.

    Leave a comment:


  • BubbaTree
    started a topic Arizona Smog Test - Failed

    Arizona Smog Test - Failed

    Had to visit the smog shop yesterday prior to registration. After sitting in line over an hour ( 101 degrees outside ) it's my turn. The short version is that the car failed, and the instrument cluster showed a yellow DSC light and a yellow "brake" light. To clarify, the word "brake" was yellow. Turns out that the test was run with engine off - can't explain that, it was running when I exited the car. Ran the test again, engine running, those instrument lights still showing, and it failed again. The car failed to communicate both times, so it showed as fail. Charged me $17.00 and recorded no fee charged. Next, I demanded my cash back, and got it, also got a widget to install in OBDII port for the drive home. Not sure what the widget's for, but was told to leave it there pending my return to the shop. At home, I shut off the engine and re-started it. No lights showing on the dash, so I measured battery voltage. Engine off = 12.55 v, engine on, 14.00v. Should I be concerned about those lights showing then going out? I'm not checking for faults until passing smog.
    Sorry about droning on, and appreciate any thoughts.
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