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  • M3AZ
    replied
    Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post
    The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.
    You're going to have a hard time getting the SAP monitor to set in Phoenix during the summer when it rarely gets below 80 at night. I had to run an AC duct into my garage to cool it overnight to below 70 degrees. The next start it set.

    The dealership could try parking in in the showroom overnight. They don't need to do the entire drive cycle if the other monitors are set, just a cold start and idle for a few minutes.

    You can have 1 not-ready monitor in Arizona.

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  • BubbaTree
    replied
    The Evap and SAP monitors still won't reset, and here's the latest update. The local dealership has had the car all week, testing and running drive cycles with no luck. They are ready to reach out to BMW for help, and my question of the forum pertains to the IAT sensor that I relocated several years ago. Is that sensor and/or it's wiring a suspect in this problem? If the sensor has failed, surely it will throw a code, but is the same true if the wiring has somehow failed? I didn't think of this until today, and should probably tell the dealer guys about it if they haven't checked it. Thanks.




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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Still no. F it. Tapatalk takes less than symbol and thinks I'm writing some html and doesnt display the text that follows it. Tapatalk makes it more difficult to stay active here and to be helpful . It also doesnt notify me of a lot of messages (so sorry if I missed some).

    So cold start is when temp is below 122F to force it back into open loop, which creates a condition for carrying out tests and setting specific monitors.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-17-2021, 01:22 PM.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Tapatalk app is acting up per usual. To finish the last sentence...

    "Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    To rule out that your Schwaben is not jacked up, do you have an obd2 bluetooth dongle? You can download the torque app and check data. Sometimes my Schwaben acts up and gets stuck on random screens when trying to connect, so I have to cycle they key off and reconnect it, then try to get to the screen I need to go to.

    For what you are trying to set (sap/evap), you don't need to actually drive the car. You only need certain steps of the "drive cycle". "Drive cycle" is confusing because depending on what monitors you need to set, it might or might not require actual driving...

    Depends if you have error codes, had work done on the car and had codes cleared (that resets all monitors). Then you need to carry out all the steps (which can be carried out independently - i.e. if you don't feel like driving on the highway 55mph to set O2 related monitors but want to just set all the other monitors, idle the car and shut it off, if you need to set o2 monitors, start the car and go drive, don't need to wait to do cold idle first, so steps are independent, not sequential).

    Once the monitor sets it stays set between driving cycles (unless error codes are cleared, and some reported if disconnecting the battery).

    If you fail at the testing center, it's easier for them to say "your monitors are not set, here is a brochure which explains how to set them, go follow the drive cycle". They don't spend the time to go through the detail of YOUR results to see which monitor(s) is/are not set, or explain which monitors require what conditions to carry out the testing/monitoring/setting (open loop cold idle, closed loop, highway load at speed, etc). The actual driving is for when the car is running in closed loop (off o2 and other sensors) to test o2 sensor operation and the catalyst efficiency (rear o2). So if your O2 related monitors were not set, you would have to put the car under load at constant speed for a period of time (i.e 55mph cruise control drive step). All other monitors (misfire, fuel system, evap, sap) are tested from a cold start when car is in open loop (running off base map) during the idle process. "Cold start" is when coolant temp is Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk




    Last edited by mrgizmo04; 08-17-2021, 02:49 PM.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    2 people already told you it needs to be a cold start. Please read or it's not even worth our time to help.

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  • WOLFN8TR
    replied
    Good troubleshooting! Welcome…👍

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  • BubbaTree
    replied
    Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post

    I’m pretty sure the pump only comes on when the engine is cold. It reduces cold start emissions by injecting air into the engine on startup.
    I think you're right about the cold start. I pulled the pump and applied 12v on the bench, and it fired right up. Still got to check the remaining fuses and relay, then test the cold start voltage at the pump next. If I can eliminate the hardware issues, I'll get to that drive-cycle stuff next. Thanks for the help.

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  • WOLFN8TR
    replied
    Originally posted by BubbaTree View Post

    Wolfn8tr, you could be my new hero! I started the engine with the hose removed from the pump and there's ZERO noise or airflow from the pump! The engine is hot from driving today - does that matter to this pump check?
    Before I buy a new pump, I'll run down any fuses or relays that may be involved.
    Thanks!
    I’m pretty sure the pump only comes on when the engine is cold. It reduces cold start emissions by injecting air into the engine on startup.

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  • BubbaTree
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
    Schwaben manual question - learn as you go, kinda how your learned to use computers or smart phones - click and see what happens. I've been through several versions of the orange Foxwell units and black Schwaben units. They all do something a bit different even on same version of software. Some functions/activities are not properly named or mapped in the ui.

    To open the communication port with obd2, key has to be in position 2 (car doesn't need to be running).


    For EVAP - make sure tank is >3/4 full. Hopefully your gas tank cap has a good seal. Start the car from cold (let it sit overnight, coolant has to be below 122F), then let car idle for about 5 minutes.

    SAP - same testing conditions - when car is started from cold and idle for few mins (before it goes closed loop).

    Barring software/hardware issues, both EVAP and SAP "should" set on the same cold start of the car, they dont need to be 2 separate cold starts.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    I'm still trying to explore anything at all that may be causing this issue. Using the black Schwaben scanner, I tried to open the communication port with OBDII, key on, engine off but not stone cold. The screens progressed until it reached the Protocol heading, and showing ISO 91 41-2 . At that point, it did not show me anything further. Following the same steps with engine on, I got to see the various monitors, and most of them showed condition to be N/A. Maybe I'm going from bad to worse?

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  • BubbaTree
    replied
    Originally posted by WOLFN8TR View Post
    If you want to see if the SAP pump is working, remove the plastic hose from the pump and start the car. If the pump is working properly you will hear it when you start the car as it’s super loud! I would replace the hose from the pump to the valve as they are know to crack and cause a check engine light. Believe me as I had this problem and it was just the hose. They are such a cheaply made hose it’s laughable!
    Good Luck…
    Wolfn8tr, you could be my new hero! I started the engine with the hose removed from the pump and there's ZERO noise or airflow from the pump! The engine is hot from driving today - does that matter to this pump check?
    Before I buy a new pump, I'll run down any fuses or relays that may be involved.
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • WOLFN8TR
    replied
    If you want to see if the SAP pump is working, remove the plastic hose from the pump and start the car. If the pump is working properly you will hear it when you start the car as it’s super loud! I would replace the hose from the pump to the valve as they are know to crack and cause a check engine light. Believe me as I had this problem and it was just the hose. They are such a cheaply made hose it’s laughable!
    Good Luck…

    Leave a comment:


  • BubbaTree
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    You have to complete the drive cycles no matter what. Was the pump plugged in?

    I wouldn't replace it yet. Have you done a cold start and let the car just sit and idle until the noise quiets and the idle drops a little? Take about a minute. Don't touch the gas pedal.
    Yes, the pump was plugged in with no visible wiring or air hose damage. I just did the cold start and let the car idle for a bit. After about a minute or so, the idle dropped to about 900 or so and stayed smooth from there. As the idle speed dropped from about 1100-1200 down to about 1000, there was a slight irregularity in the idle. Didn't feel like a cylinder misfire or such, and it was barely noticeable, but it's there. I'll check out the monitor status and see what happens. Thanks.

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  • Tbonem3
    replied
    You have to complete the drive cycles no matter what. Was the pump plugged in?

    I wouldn't replace it yet. Have you done a cold start and let the car just sit and idle until the noise quiets and the idle drops a little? Take about a minute. Don't touch the gas pedal.

    Leave a comment:


  • BubbaTree
    replied
    Originally posted by Tbonem3 View Post
    You don't need evap to work. Most done at this point in the cars' life.

    You do need SAP to be working. Your air pump (the black round thing in front of coolant exp tank) could be bad or unplugged or wires chewed.
    I pulled out the secondary air pump canister, and saw no obvious defects, etc. I couldn't get the air hose off of the metal valve that bolts to the head, so didn't check or clean it. I guess I'm down to replacing the air pump, and that metal valve. Latest question: if I replace both of those units, can I expect the car to no longer show SAP and Evap systems INC, or should it then be ready for testing? Before throwing parts, I'll again check for fault codes and run OBDII readiness check. The fuel level is right at 3/4 so I'll waste some of that before test/check again and see what happens.
    Thanks again for helping!

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