E36 M3 buying guide?

[sina]

Hey Guys,

Got offered an E36 M3 at a friends-and-family price, and was just curious what some things there are to look out for on the platform. From my understanding, they are a bit more reliable than E46s - anything equivalent to our big 3 (besides the cooling system)? I haven't gotten to see the car in person and am waiting to hear back on the first round of questions I sent the owner's way.

All I know at the moment and can tell from the one picture is Alpine White coupe, vader seats, 5 speed. Owner is leaving the country and wants it gone asap for 5k, which seems like a no-brainer price assuming the title is clean and it checks out mechanically.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

[lcrain]

Nothing like rod bearings or rear subframe. The vanos system can still cause some issues. Cooling system, as you mentioned, is probably the most common e36 issue. Then just typical used car stuff. How are the bushings, shocks, etc.? Rear trailing arm pockets will crack/tear, so check those to see if there are any cracks. Look for the vin tags, I cannot remember how many there are. Shifter bushings are probably shot. The e36 is a great, reasonably reliable BMW. They really come alive with fresh suspension, in my experience.

If it runs, has a clean title and no glaring cosmetic issues (rust, torn seats, body damage), I really wouldn't worry about too much else. You are getting a very good deal at $5k in today's market. Change fluids, drive it around and see what it needs. I'd probably budget the time/resources for a cooling system overhaul and a vanos overhaul unless you have records of them having been done recently. Then address the rest as needed/desired.

[Nate047]

What year is it? The later cars are typically better, although 95s are definitely cool in their own ways. The rear subframes are reinforced on the later cars, not on 95s. Sway bar mounting tabs can break so check those. Trailing arm pockets can crack so it's smart to reinforce those, you get weld on plates for that. Shock upper mounts and where they attach to the body can crack. The oil pump nut problem was largely resolved on later cars it seems, but still wise to wire or weld that. You gotta do the whole cooling system, do a Stewart water pump and the Z3M S54 3 core radiator if you want to stay OEM. VANOS also goes but it's only a single VANOS and unlike the S54, when it does go it *usually* isn't catastrophic, so that's good. Cosmetic things like the headliner, sagging glove box, ripped out seat bolsters, stuff like that will just depend on how well the car was kept previous to your stewardship.

Honestly other than those things, you are right that they are typically very reliable. The repairs are less costly than with the e46, brakes are a little less, tires are less, etc... My E46 has been on a flat bed 3 times in the 2.5 years I've owned it, the E36 has only died on me once in 6 years but now that I said that I'm sure it'll find a reason to die tomorrow.

Just saw the $5k price, pretty much just get it no matter what unless it's completely falling apart. You can't lose at that price point, even if you do decide to just flip it.

[Jimbo's M]

Unless you wrench yourself and are readily familiar with the E36 platform, I'd consider a reputable indy and a PPI.

[01SG]

Need more information. Year, mileage? They are up quite a lot recently. Unless there are some major issues like mentioned above, 5k is probably a great deal. All other things being equal, an e36 is worlds more reliable than an e46 m3. The Vanos won't explode and put holes in head, the RACP won't fall out, bearings don't blow apart. That said, most have been neglected at this point. Without records, expect to replace a lot of things for it to be right. For 5k, it most likely needs a lot of attention. They're not cheap to bring back, but much cheaper than an E46.

The engines are very reliable. Gearbox has been known to have an issue, the 5th gear thing, but not in my experience. It's a great shifting ZF regardless.

Biggest thing to look out for is the body..rust. They rot everywhere. Under the door frames. In the floor. That front section of the floor behind the fender liners. All over the trunk. The lip under the rubber sealing for the trunk. Obvious places like the quarter panels.

[stephen]

The rear subframes are reinforced on the later cars, not on 95s.

That's not exactly true. It's the early build date 95s that didn't have the reinforcement plates. I used to own an 11/95 production 95 that had the reinforcement plates and updated vader seat frames.

[shibui]

$5k for a running manual clean title E36 M3? You're right that is a no-brainer. Personally, I'd buy it even if it had problems...

[Obioban]

Common failure areas:
Cooling system (~60,000 mile service life)
thermostat housing
oil pump nut
5th gear lean
Trans input shaft seal
trans output shaft seal
trans selector rod seal
from underbody panel tearing off
gauge backlights
climate control resistor
fog lights falling out
side mirrors get stolen
glove box droop
Falling head rests
delaminating door cards
Front shock towers
rear shock towers
subframe (actual subframe)
RTAB pockets
RSMs
front sway mounts rear sway mounts
vanos seals
headlights that came from the factory non functional 🤣

… off the top of my head.

[Nate047]

That's not exactly true. It's the early build date 95s that didn't have the reinforcement plates. I used to own an 11/95 production 95 that had the reinforcement plates and updated vader seat frames.

Good to know, makes sense that some of the late 95s would have those updates.

[loudspeaker69]

If you don’t know already, it has no tilt/telescoping steering wheel.

The front seats (Vader’s if I recall) usually have some play toward the steering wheel and back and I have heard putting a coin where there is a gap actually takes it away (no lie).

It seem like more cars will undergo head gasket replacement, while it’s not common on US S54 vehicles.

Of course, changing out the valve train (for beefier valves) helps if going into the redline.

Note: upshifts it will hit the limiter, and a downshift has no safety net (just as in the S54, if not mistaken).

[sina]

Thanks for all the opinions guys. Got some more info. The car has been sitting for 7 years apparently, before that it was a daily driver. It wasn't starting until the battery was replaced, but now it runs. Still haven't seen it in person, as I'm not totally sure if I'm interested yet. It would most likely be something I pick up, detail, teach a friend or two to drive stick in, and then see if I can make a buck or come out even.

1. Year 1998
2. Mileage 162k
3. Clean Title
4. Three previous owners, been in the family since 60k miles
5. Grey interior
6. Exterior condition (1-10)? 8, some door dings but always garaged
7. Interior condition (1-10)? 8, no damage, some driver side wear
8. Mechanical condition - Was daily driver for bro when parked ~7 years ago. Stock except for flash and intake
9. No documented service history

So maybe not as much of a no-brainer as at first glance, nonetheless from doing some quick browsing it seems like 7-8k is the absolute bottom in terms of pricing for E36s. So maybe some money could be made by just having the patience to put it on craigslist. I have a hunch that the interior/exterior condition is being a bit generous, but without seeing in person I can't say for sure.

[Obioban]

3/4/5 or automatic vert?

[sina]

3/4/5 or automatic vert?

5 speed coupe.

[SamGrant951]

Clean it up a bit and list it for 10k will probably be gone the same day.