Broken Oil Pump Tensioner Help!

[cobra]

As soon as I get the parts in the mail 🙂

[LatinSkllz]

How soon are you looking to do this?


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[sapote]

Not sure how you would remove the dowel pins before removing the cover. Drilling them out maybe?

I won't remove the cover with the head installed, but I had read that the dowel holes on the block are not blinded holes, and so just tap them rearward with a drift until they are out of the cover (but still in the block). Don't know how much room behind the dowels so they can be driven forward later.

[heinzboehmer]

Oily mess could also be from the driver's side timing chain guide upper bolt. It's right behind the thermostat housing. Good time to make sure it hasn't come loose now that you have the housing off.

[cobra]

I am just gonna spooge a bunch of silicone in there and hope it works.

On the bright side, there is an insane amount of oil and crud built up right around that joint, to the point where it almost looks like it was already leaking. Only other thing it could have been in this location is the vanos unit gasket which I replaced last time I had it off.

[heinzboehmer]

The head was bolted down (after the chain cover was installed to the block) and compressed the gasket between the head and the cover. So the compressed gasket will be destroyed when trying to remove the cover (sliding forward off the 2 dowel pins). The only way to avoid damaging the gasket is to remove the 2 dowel pins first before removing the cover bolts. If removing dowel pins is the method being used, then during install the cover back, it must be pushed up to compress the gasket, then install the 2 dowel pins, then the bolts. A messy work.

Yeah I understand that. And I'm not sure I recommend doing it without removing the head.

I'm just saying I managed to do it without any problems (for now). The head bolts to the timing chain cover too and when those bolts are removed, there was just enough room to remove and reinstall the timing chain cover without destroying the head gasket.

Not sure how you would remove the dowel pins before removing the cover. Drilling them out maybe?

[sapote]

Fortunately the head gasket is only sealing against oil leaks on top of the timing chain cover. So worst thing that can happen is that you get a leak. Not going to lose compression or anything like that.
I've removed mine without removing the head and have no leaks, but yes, technically you're supposed to replace the head gasket.

The head was bolted down (after the chain cover was installed to the block) and compressed the gasket between the head and the cover. So the compressed gasket will be destroyed when trying to remove the cover (sliding forward off the 2 dowel pins). The only way to avoid damaging the gasket is to remove the 2 dowel pins first before removing the cover bolts. If removing dowel pins is the method being used, then during install the cover back, it must be pushed up to compress the gasket, then install the 2 dowel pins, then the bolts. A messy work.

[cobra]

I got the subframe mounted temporarily so I can do the work in front. Got the bolts off the front damper thing. Those were insanely tight!!

How does the damper come off? Is it keyed or could I put it back on wrong?

edit: NVM, I see that it's got a dowel pin on the backside and probably just need to tap it off.

Thanks for the tips on the front main seal.

This appears to be the exact same thing as the Genuine BMW one and is listed as OE. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...nt-11142249532

[heinzboehmer]

Alright... I think this is the plan:
-Reinstall subframe/motor mounts in order to remove engine support bar
-Remove wp and hoses (I need to replace this anyway and was going to put it off, I guess now is a good time)
-Remove crank pulley and timing cover, curse BMW for using so much plastic inside the engine

Parts needed/wanted:
-Timing chain gaskets left and right
-Oil pump chain guide/tensioner
-Front main seal
-Water pump & gaskets
-Thermostat

Looking on FCP there are also some o-rings and crush washers they are suggesting in their kit...

I will take photos and make a DIY to help out the forum since this sucks, and I can't be the only person to ever break this thing.

Is the crank lock the same as the little pin that goes in the OIT hole or something else?

You should add one more thing to your list:

-Curse BMW for making the front main seal so stupid hard to install without damage

But seriously, you should order a few and return any unused ones. They're suuuper easy to tear when installing and the special tool for installation is impossible to buy.

[bigjae46]

Is the crank lock the same as the little pin that goes in the OIT hole or something else?

Yes.

Should have the oil pan dropped. You can just loosely bolt the oil pan and install the subframe.


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[cobra]

Alright... I think this is the plan:
-Reinstall subframe/motor mounts in order to remove engine support bar
-Remove wp and hoses (I need to replace this anyway and was going to put it off, I guess now is a good time)
-Remove crank pulley and timing cover, curse BMW for using so much plastic inside the engine

Parts needed/wanted:
-Timing chain gaskets left and right
-Oil pump chain guide/tensioner
-Front main seal
-Water pump & gaskets
-Thermostat

Looking on FCP there are also some o-rings and crush washers they are suggesting in their kit...

I will take photos and make a DIY to help out the forum since this sucks, and I can't be the only person to ever break this thing.

Is the crank lock the same as the little pin that goes in the OIT hole or something else?

[bigjae46]

So I don't need a special tool to remove the crank pulley thing? I can't find a single diy on this. Maybe time to make one

No. Just an E12 socket and a crank lock. Or you can have someone step on the brake pedal. Crank lock is better.


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[heinzboehmer]

-How do I remove it? Looks like I need to pull the water pump and crank pulley/balancer. Does that require special tools?

Yeah just follow what bigjae said. Looking through pictures of when I did mine, I did remove the water pump. Although, you might be able to get to all the bolts with some deep, thin e torx bits.

-Is the timing cover located with dowels or can it be slid upwards into place?

There's two dowels on opposite corners of the cover itself. But there's still just about enough play to get the cover back on without completely destroying the head gasket.

Now to figure out how to do this with the oil pan off already. The engine brace is currently holding the engine up by the mounting bracket that needs to be removed.

If you end up putting the subframe back on, leave the oil pan off. You need to have it off to remove the timing chain cover.

So I don't need a special tool to remove the crank pulley thing? I can't find a single diy on this. Maybe time to make one

Nah, parking brake up and transmission in sixth was good enough for me. I do recommend using an impact driver on the bolts though. They're e torx and the heads are easy to round. If you're going to be draining coolant to remove the water pump, I'd suggest taking the extra hour to remove the entire front end. There's loads more room that way.

I've replaced my front main seal twice and I only removed the front end the second time, but it was sooo much better that way.

I wish the old forum hadn't died like it did. I asked for help when I had to replace one of my timing chain guides (pretty sure bigjae was one of the people that helped me out a bunch) and had a whole thread where I documented how I did everything.

[cobra]

So I don't need a special tool to remove the crank pulley thing? I can't find a single diy on this. Maybe time to make one

[bigjae46]

Pull off the crank damper. I just use a big impact…you will need to lock the crank to reinstall. It’s an angle torque spec.

The VANOS oil line will be in the way.

Might be able to get to the bolts near the water pump without removing.

Then there are a bunch of E4 external torx bolts. Be careful removing them. May need to do some degreasing first.

When you reinstall, drop of RTV where the top corners of the timing cover mate with the block and head gasket AND bottom corners where it makes with the block and oil pan gasket.

A good battery ratchet will make the job much faster. In my track car…I’d just pull the front end off and it would be pretty easy😊

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