Broken Oil Pump Tensioner Help!

[cobra]

What is the crank timing gear? Sprocket or the timing encoder ring near the flywheel end?

The sprocket in front, on which the timing chain and oil pump chain are driven.

[sapote]

Thanks guys.

One more question. The timing gears attached to the crank

What is the crank timing gear? Sprocket or the timing encoder ring near the flywheel end?

[bigjae46]

You’re gonna have to time the engine. You can remove the timing chain tensioner and might be able to get the lower sprocket on.

I’d just reuse the oil pump chain.


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[cobra]

Thanks guys.

One more question. The timing gears attached to the crank, can they be removed by simply removing the small allen bolt in the middle and releasing the tensioner up above?

Can the oil pump chain be replaced without changing the sprockets?

I'm seeing some recommendations to replace the chain and tensioner both, and figure since I'm all the way in here maybe it makes sense.

[heinzboehmer]

1. Should I try installing the cover first, then the seal, or install the seal into the cover first? To me it seems like installing the seal afterward would be easier than trying to wedge the cover in there, aligning both the dowels and the seal at the same time.

Install the cover first, then the seal

2. What makes installing the seal difficult? I have installed hundreds of seals and never had a problem damaging them. I just wrap a little electrical tape around the sharp metal edge, grease it up, and slide it on. Then I could tap it into the timing cover with a piece of tube?

The part of the seal that seals against the crankshaft is super fragile. If you don't get it to slide on perfectly, you'll tear the seal. It's not one of those spring type radial seals, it's just a very thin piece of rubber on the inside of the seal. Kinda hard to put into words, but you'll understand when you have it in your hands.

[LatinSkllz]

I got the timing cover off. That was really easy. A couple taps with a mallet and it just popped off. The head gasket is the typical viton-coated MLS gasket it looks like. I think I will be able to seal it up no problem with some carefully placed low-viscosity MotoSeal.

Couple more questions.

1. Should I try installing the cover first, then the seal, or install the seal into the cover first? To me it seems like installing the seal afterward would be easier than trying to wedge the cover in there, aligning both the dowels and the seal at the same time.

2. What makes installing the seal difficult? I have installed hundreds of seals and never had a problem damaging them. I just wrap a little electrical tape around the sharp metal edge, grease it up, and slide it on. Then I could tap it into the timing cover with a piece of tube?

By the way, here is my oil pump tensioner removed. Amazing how brittle this plastic is. I can't be the only person to have broken it while messing with the oil pump???

1. I did the timing case cover first then the seal. The seal will fit tightly around the case/crank so I suspect you’d have a harder time doing it with the seal on.

2. I simply lightly lubed up mine and used the ring off c clamp that close let matches the OD if the seal. Tapped it with a hammer and all is well. Just pay attention to how far into the case cover it is right now. TIS calls for 2-4mm past case seal lip IIRC


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[cobra]

I got the timing cover off. That was really easy. A couple taps with a mallet and it just popped off. The head gasket is the typical viton-coated MLS gasket it looks like. I think I will be able to seal it up no problem with some carefully placed low-viscosity MotoSeal.

Couple more questions.

1. Should I try installing the cover first, then the seal, or install the seal into the cover first? To me it seems like installing the seal afterward would be easier than trying to wedge the cover in there, aligning both the dowels and the seal at the same time.

2. What makes installing the seal difficult? I have installed hundreds of seals and never had a problem damaging them. I just wrap a little electrical tape around the sharp metal edge, grease it up, and slide it on. Then I could tap it into the timing cover with a piece of tube?

By the way, here is my oil pump tensioner removed. Amazing how brittle this plastic is. I can't be the only person to have broken it while messing with the oil pump???

[bigjae46]

I also don't trust the FW locking hole for this task.

Me neither. The last time I torqued the damper bolts was on an engine stand. I used 2 flywheel bolts with a pry bar wedged in to prevent it from turning.


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[sapote]

Maybe the OIT hole is but I wouldn’t trust that.

I also don't trust the FW locking hole for this task.

[bigjae46]

I removed the bolts by using the ebrake and a long wrench. The oit locking pin bracket is held on with 2 small screws but there are also dowels on each hole so I think it's quite strong. Guess we'll find out soon enough!

I’d rather have someone step on the brake so other stuff doesn’t take that force which is not designed to take. Maybe the OIT hole is but I wouldn’t trust that.


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[cobra]

I removed the bolts by using the ebrake and a long wrench. The oit locking pin bracket is held on with 2 small screws but there are also dowels on each hole so I think it's quite strong. Guess we'll find out soon enough!

[bigjae46]

Probably going to need to step on the brakes.


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[LatinSkllz]

No I haven't torqued it. I'm not sure how that part even attaches to the vibration dampener? I was just going to stick the locking pin into the OIT holder and torque them down.

Be careful with the locking pin. It’s attached to aluminum abs bolts are not that long.

The tool bolts up to three holes for for the crank pulley and it will rest inside the A/C tensioner bracket. I get the tool Saturday and will take pics.

Your best bet without tool is to follow Heinzboomers suggestion, e brake and in gear.


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[cobra]

Did you already torque down the vibration dampener bolts? I found the bmw tool but it’s 90 bucks and I should get it by Friday.

Otherwise, there’s the same one for bmw motorcycles but on back order from Germany 6-8 weeks.

Link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/83300493843/

If I get it and you haven’t done it, LMK if you want to use it.


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No I haven't torqued it. I'm not sure how that part even attaches to the vibration dampener? I was just going to stick the locking pin into the OIT holder and torque them down.

[LatinSkllz]

As soon as I get the parts in the mail 🙂

Did you already torque down the vibration dampener bolts? I found the bmw tool but it’s 90 bucks and I should get it by Friday.

Otherwise, there’s the same one for bmw motorcycles but on back order from Germany 6-8 weeks.

Link: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/83300493843/

If I get it and you haven’t done it, LMK if you want to use it.


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