Time for a new set of tie rods or not?

[E46m3zcp]

I am dealing with a wobble / shimmer around 70-80 mph since I put wider Apex Arc8s

Original wheels were 19" with 225 up front and 255 in the back
New wheels are square 18" Arc8's with new Pilot Super Sport 255 all around on 9.5 wide wheels.

Here are the facts:

• It only happens with the Apex wheels, the OEM 19s don't cause any trouble (note that the tires on the original wheels are four seasons and they are shot, so there's a lack of grip)
• It happens regardless of the position of the wheels, it's a square setup and I tried every possible combination and nothing goes away
• The wheels should be well balanced (I went to 3 different shops to balance them, and it never went away)

I am about to order a set of tie rods because there seems to be a little slob, but nothing major:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lgC...ew?usp=sharing

Also, one of the wheels displays minimal movement/deformation as in the video below:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z2HSZaG1ryfVFJ3aA

In the video above, one thing I'm wondering is if it's normal to have this much play in the steering rack. I had trouble isolating the movement in the tie rod end... in my video it's not very convincing to me that there's play in the tie rod.

Can anyone confirm whether I should change the tie rod or not based on the video above? Is the up and down motion of the pushrod coming out of the rack normal? Also, what about the movement of the rack w.r.t. the subframe? Everything seems pretty slack, where should I look for a defective busing? .

[Lukem3]

Yeah any play is excessive. Could be the inner tie rod or the rack itself. I would start with both new outer and inner tie rods. If u still have play look for6a rack

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[COVID-19]

Also check the steering coupler

[bigjae46]

First thing I’d ook at is the control arm bushing.


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[cobra]

I just tried diagnosing a vague feeling front end. The tie rods and ball joints were all perfectly tight, even at 100k miles.

I felt some play in the steering rack but the input shaft moved the same amount so it wasn't really play. Replaced the steering coupler and there was zero change. I then went to the FCABs and they fell off the control arms they were so clapped out. I have not driven my car since doing that job but it appears to be the obvious culprit.

It does look like one of your wheels is bent?

[EthanolTurbo]

Try getting your wheels roadforce balanced. This will minimize vibration (I've personally felt reductions of 80-90% between roadforce balancing and regular balancing) and will also tell you if one of your wheels is bent or irregular.

[bigjae46]

Try getting your wheels roadforce balanced. This will minimize vibration (I've personally felt reductions of 80-90% between roadforce balancing and regular balancing) and will also tell you if one of your wheels is bent or irregular.

RoadForce balancing makes a huge difference although it’s a PIA.

But do check your control arm bushings first.


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[FBloggs]

Your suspects:
Tie rods.
Right front LCAB...fried by factory cat heat.
FLCA at either or both ball joints.

If your old tires were a different brand, their softer sidewalls have masked the problem.

[E46m3zcp]

I fixed my problem.

It sounds unbelievable, but balancing a 4th time at a different shop got rid of 95% of the vibration (and no, it wasn't a road force). I think the remaining slight vibration is due to a warped rotor with a slightly sticky calliper.

I called the 3 other shops that had balanced my wheels to get my money back and they told me to f* off and that they know what they're doing 🤣

I had already ordered the full tie rod kit from FCP Euro and I think I will put it on, instead of letting it rot on a shelf. Refreshing 15 years old parts can do no harm, right? They must be on their way out....

[Will]

I fixed my problem.

It sounds unbelievable, but balancing a 4th time at a different shop got rid of 95% of the vibration (and no, it wasn't a road force). I think the remaining slight vibration is due to a warped rotor with a slightly sticky calliper.

I called the 3 other shops that had balanced my wheels to get my money back and they told me to f* off and that they know what they're doing 🤣

I had already ordered the full tie rod kit from FCP Euro and I think I will put it on, instead of letting it rot on a shelf. Refreshing 15 years old parts can do no harm, right? They must be on their way out....

LOL.

[Maxima SE]

Y
Right front LCAB...fried by factory cat heat.

oh It is interesting you say that. I swapped my SGT headers to OEM stock headers and within 200 miles all of a sudden I have a cluncking sound on the right front and the steering wheel jerks when i hit the brakes. I was thinking it was the control arm bushing but I think the header swap makes it even more suspicious

[FBloggs]

oh It is interesting you say that. I swapped my SGT headers to OEM stock headers and within 200 miles all of a sudden I have a cluncking sound on the right front and the steering wheel jerks when i hit the brakes. I was thinking it was the control arm bushing but I think the header swap makes it even more suspicious

Check the front calipers first.
Since it occurs when you hit the brakes, I would look for a sticking caliper that hangs back for a tiny bit, then pops out and hits the disc hard.
This could be your clunk and pull also.
If you still have FLCABs with some miles on them, the RF bushing shrinks away from the control arm and gets hard.
Then it grinds at the aluminum.
I bought a car with 83k on it which had the RF FLCAB fried by the Bank one Cat.