Is my diff completely done?

[Casa de Mesa]

Edited my post above. What kinda tolerance are you looking at? I thought there was room

[Mattn1192]

(Caption on photo)

[Casa de Mesa]

When it comes to removing the top right bolt on the diff cover (without dropping diff from car) what’s the best way to do so? I’ve run into a clearance issue.

Yeah, that's not a fun bolt.

My car came pre-clearanced in the spare tire well (i.e. a hammer) by the former owner's mechanic or by BMW themselves. I was able to get a torque wrench for install/removal with either no extension or a stubby extension. You might be able to do the same to crack yours loose. Then use a jack to sightly unweight the diff and the bolt may spin out by hand. I don't *think* the diff bolts had thread locker on them.

Edit: you said diff cover, my bad. You should have room there I think. What's the tolerance?

[bigjae46]

When it comes to removing the top right bolt on the diff cover (without dropping diff from car) what’s the best way to do so? I’ve run into a clearance issue.

Try a wrench?

You can loosen the front bolt so the diff rotates down.

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[Mattn1192]

When it comes to removing the top right bolt on the diff cover (without dropping diff from car) what’s the best way to do so? I’ve run into a clearance issue.

[sapote]

For drexler equal lengths are used.

Depending on the location of the spiders, and so it they are central located then it has equal length flanges.

[jet_dogg]

That’s about 1/4 of the length of the spline that is damaged. A similar length of the spline is certainly damaged in the spider gear.

Why would you not AT LEAST replace the axle stub.

And then you’re going to further screw up the splines in the large spider gear when you insert the damaged stub.

But hey…not my car.

A long stub is cut down to fit into OS Giken, ZF, Drexler, etc limited slips…as I said earlier. So you can certainly find a short stub for about $50 on eBay.


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For drexler equal lengths are used.

[bigjae46]

This pic shows how much the good splines remain on the stub. You can't say that they will break off.

Re to the short stub -- you meant the flange? I don't understand why someone want to cut down a the long flange (one the left side), and then do you need to machine the splines on the cut off end? The short stub length is fixed and you cannot change to something longer, and how the long stub will fit in between the diff and the CV shaft?

That’s about 1/4 of the length of the spline that is damaged. A similar length of the spline is certainly damaged in the spider gear.

Why would you not AT LEAST replace the axle stub.

And then you’re going to further screw up the splines in the large spider gear when you insert the damaged stub.

But hey…not my car.

A long stub is cut down to fit into OS Giken, ZF, Drexler, etc limited slips…as I said earlier. So you can certainly find a short stub for about $50 on eBay.


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[sapote]

On the V2 diff the spiders are near the red-circled hole you highlighted, and so your diff has the shorter flange on the left side and this is the one will wobble and leak first.

[Casa de Mesa]

Got it. I'm slow on the uptake. The actual LSD carrier, not the pumpkin/housing.

This:

[sapote]

DON'T REUSE THAT AXLE STUB!!! The short stub is the one that no one wants. Should be able to get one cheap. I might have an extra one. Everyone wants the long one to cut down when they swap an OSG or a ZF limited slip carrier..

This pic shows how much the good splines remain on the stub. You can't say that they will break off.

Re to the short stub -- you meant the flange? I don't understand why someone want to cut down a the long flange (one the left side), and then do you need to machine the splines on the cut off end? The short stub length is fixed and you cannot change to something longer, and how the long stub will fit in between the diff and the CV shaft?

[sapote]

A little more digging. Better view of the inside. Going to give it a good clean up.

Side-gear splines look OK. You need to find out why the half shaft pulled the flange out. Have you checked to see if the CV joint and shaft move freely axially? IF not then it could pull the flange out again.

[sapote]

DON'T REUSE THAT AXLE STUB!!! The short stub is the one that no one wants. Should be able to get one cheap. I might have an extra one. Everyone wants the long one to cut down when they swap an OSG or a ZF limited slip carrier.

You will need to replace the c-clip, at a minimum. The problem is if the end of the stub is damaged then the inside of the spider gear splines are also damaged. Which leaves a minimal section of good spline engagement. The splines will likely fail.

You will need to pull the carrier out, open it up and replace the spider gear. I can a diff fully apart. I am going to rebuild it in a couple of weeks. PM me if you're interested.

If anyone is replacing their axle boots, I have the correct size pinch clamps if you need them. I went through 2 kits and ain't no way the clamps were big enough.

I disagree. There are plenty of good spline on the shaft and on the side-gear. The damaged portion is like 1/10 of the splines and I don't think it will ever break as long as the flange will not pop out again.

[sapote]

Got it. I think I see it now. You mean this part?

Not that. The hole on the LSD carrier that you can see the clutch stack in there. V1 round holes are smaller and cannot see the clutch stack.

[Mattn1192]

A little more digging. Better view of the inside. Going to give it a good clean up.