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Would anyone care to recommend a tool to remove and replace the rear subframe bushings? Going to replace them while it is apart for the Vincebar and skinz.
To get the old ones out - drill rubber to make room for a saw, cut the metal outer ring and knock them out.
To press new ones I used the rtab tool. For me it was easier because I did solids, so you can press on the middle of the bushing. For stock rubber ones you need an adapter/piece of pipe so you are pressing in on the outer ring. If doing poly 2 piece no tool needed.
All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.
PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.
​​If you're going about replacing all the bushings during this job, I'd highly recommend a shop press and a bushing removal kit. Doesn't have to be fancy, I used the sleeve kit below and my dad's ancient bargain brand 15 ton press.
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Requires a bit of creativity to use, but is versatile enough to use on all bushings and ball joints in the rear end IME. Way less effort than using threaded rods, especially for large bushings like the subframe ones. If positioned correctly, the bushing will press right out. If a sleeve doesn't fit, a socket can be used to substitute (such as with the rear upper control arm bushing).
The kit I used came with a couple threaded rods in different diameters that are good for unpressable spots, such as the front diff mount location and trailing arm ball joints. The threaded rods, despite not feeling of the greatest quality (the kit is from China fyi), held up fine to what I threw at it and I haven't broken any yet. Keeping them oiled is a must.
Caveat is that you need to devise ways to place certain parts on the press to minimize stress on the component you're pressing out of (the lip on stock subframe bushings get in the way of placing the larger "escape" sleeve), so tbh I did end up having to make some tools, adding complexity and effort. It's also mostly a two man job. One to hold the part, one to ensure sleeve position and operate the press.
I laughed as I popped out the subframe bushings with minimal effort. Was expecting the headache I saw in a video of some dudes using threaded rods, drilling and torching the bushing and making like 2mm of leeway per hour. It kind of spoils you though, I groaned every time I had to resort to the threaded rods lol.
If you go with Harbor Freight's 12 ton press and this kit it comes out to a little more than the subframe specific tool linked by Slideways. Ain't nothin feel better than having the right tool for the job though and that's exactly what he provided haha. If it's worth anything, Cayn from CMP uses a cup kit and a motorized press for his bushing needs.
I would have ordered the kit Slide suggested, but Pelican won't have any for a week or so (maybe...). I like the idea of having a press and they are in stock at Harbor Freight and Northern tool.
If you get a press, this vid from CMP shows some bush replacement on a 320ci using one. Subframe bushings come out at the 3:03 mark. Turns out you can get away with using a huge bolt like he did and forgo the sleeves if you don't need them. The metal blocks he used are squared off which makes setting up way easier than the uneven cast blocks with sloped sides that usually come with presses. I used cast blocks, but they make it hard to keep the part in the exact alignment you need it in. Anything hard and close to square will make it a lot easier to get out the subframe bushings, and useful for other things as well.
To get the old ones out - drill rubber to make room for a saw, cut the metal outer ring and knock them out.
To press new ones I used the rtab tool. For me it was easier because I did solids, so you can press on the middle of the bushing. For stock rubber ones you need an adapter/piece of pipe so you are pressing in on the outer ring. If doing poly 2 piece no tool needed.
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This or an air chisel. I will use a bearing kit I got from Amazon when I tackle the rear subframe bushings. But I think drilling the rubber and using a sawzall will be dirty but do the trick. I woul djust be worried about scaring the actual subframe
No joke. Really I went from shot OE -> poly -> new OE -> Solid.
Here is the funny part, I get a new neighbor three doors down who, surprise surprise, owns an e46 m3. I'm all excited thinking I'm going to have a garage buddy... big ol' nope as the dude is weird as f$ck, and I mean WEIRD, and has absolutely zero interest in "knowing" a car. I didn't even care if he had tools as long as we simply could have tag teamed some work. Oh well.
No joke. Really I went from shot OE -> poly -> new OE -> Solid.
Here is the funny part, I get a new neighbor three doors down who, surprise surprise, owns an e46 m3. I'm all excited thinking I'm going to have a garage buddy... big ol' nope as the dude is weird as f$ck, and I mean WEIRD, and has absolutely zero interest in "knowing" a car. I didn't even care if he had tools as long as we simply could have tag teamed some work. Oh well.
did WE JUST BECOME Best...nope, no we did not. That sucks. Some people are weird like that esp the car scene
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