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End of FCA not lining up with FCAB?

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    End of FCA not lining up with FCAB?

    Do the ends of the LCAs tend to poke out of the FCAB the same distance between the driver's and passenger's side?

    Back story: I had to replace my left FCA due to gacked threads and I wound up trying to hammer on the old FCAB but it would not go on all the way. Mounted it up to my car and it seemed to handle fine, but I needed to replace the old bushing. Just did it today and I noticed with the new bushing after I used silicone to put it on, the arm wanted to sit further forward than the passenger side. Not sure if this will have any affect on handling or alignment. Thoughts?

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    #2
    Too much lube, hit her cervix lol
    seems excessive, but look at other people's photos
    DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
    /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
    More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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      #3
      Did you replace with OE or another brand? Seems like its sticking out pretty far

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        #4
        Originally posted by see.m3.go View Post
        Did you replace with OE or another brand? Seems like its sticking out pretty far
        LCA is BMW, FCAB is OE Lemforder.

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          #5
          From the TIS - https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
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            #6
            Originally posted by Slideways View Post
            Thank you! But what if the arm is moving itself too far forward? I.e. distance A is too long

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              #7
              Get the BFH and wack the FCAB housing further forward to reduce A distance to spec.
              '01 M3, JB/IR, SS, TCK DA, Apex, TMS CSL, HTE, 4:10 gears - original owner
              '00 slicktop Touring converting to full M3 Touring

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                #8
                IIRC, it's not easy to reduce distance A after a certain point because the control arm starts tapering out. Try lubing it up. Also, a lot easier with the fcab tool to press it on vs banging on the lollipop with the hammer. Try to get a dull/large enough area punch (not a sharp end) and hit around the rubber where the bushing contacts the LCA with a hammer all around the circumference in small bursts to move the bushing and shorten distance A.
                Youtube DIYs and more

                All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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