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  • oceansize
    replied
    Worked in a body shop. Hassle isn’t wanted and glass sitting around is getting broken. Dem boys ain’t gentle.

    Leave a comment:


  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    Another couple question.

    1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
    2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).
    Removing glass is significantly harder than you'd imagine, especially on older adhesive. My bet is body shops don't want the hassle.

    When I had my front glass removed to spray the car, the glass installer (not the body shop) installed the incorrect weather strip that frames the windshield. But I didn't realize it until the rolling chassis was back at my house. So I had a mobile vendor come to pull the glass and install the correct BMW trim / weatherstrip. The vendor that came was 1) very detail oriented 2) NOT from Safelite 3) an independent glass guy with fantastic tools and 25 years in the biz. He warned me that there was a 50/50 chance that the brand new fancy IR windshield that was just installed a week earlier would crack upon removal, as the original windshield did that was removed from the car to do the paintwork.

    It didn't crack, but even with his pro-quality tools, there is no way I'd want to try that job. You just can't fake experience with some jobs.

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Another couple question.

    1. Why do body shops contract out the glass(front and rear windshield) work? What's the limiting factor that makes it need a specialist.
    2. Has anyone tried saving some dough by DIY'ing the windshield removal? It seems like a mild pain, but pretty easy. My front glass will need replacement anyways (rear is in good shape).

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by ugaexploder View Post

    dynamat makes a few different products including a roofliner. that being said, went with the oe stuff. makes a big difference even just tapping on the roof. would definitely not run it without something to dampen the noise


    Originally posted by Casa de Mesa View Post

    OEM is what I went with. If I were going to skip it due to price or availability, I'd go with an adhesive backed melamine foam made for cars. I'd rather absorb the sound than dampen it from above, simply because of the weight.

    Noted. Went ahead and ordered it while it's still around.

    Leave a comment:


  • Casa de Mesa
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

    Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.
    OEM is what I went with. If I were going to skip it due to price or availability, I'd go with an adhesive backed melamine foam made for cars. I'd rather absorb the sound than dampen it from above, simply because of the weight.

    Leave a comment:


  • ugaexploder
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post

    Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.
    dynamat makes a few different products including a roofliner. that being said, went with the oe stuff. makes a big difference even just tapping on the roof. would definitely not run it without something to dampen the noise

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Originally posted by 0-60motorsports View Post

    Used the OE foam. But im sure you can use dynamat for example.....
    Yeah though dynamat is quite heavy. Just curious if those without it noticed increased road noise. Hard to imagine it does much with how light and airy it is.

    Leave a comment:


  • 0-60motorsports
    replied
    Originally posted by bavarian3 View Post
    Question for everyone here that's installed a cf roof - did you use the oe, or some form of insulation?

    I see many here seem to skip it. Wondering if it's worth bothering with.
    Used the OE foam. But im sure you can use dynamat for example.....

    Leave a comment:


  • bavarian3
    replied
    Question for everyone here that's installed a cf roof - did you use the oe, or some form of insulation?

    I see many here seem to skip it. Wondering if it's worth bothering with.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    [QUOTE=Epsilon;n318980]For the curious, just adding BMW M4 F82 stock carbon roof photos since few have seen the underside w/o the headliner:

    The E9X M3 also has a spread tow fabric on the underside. From watching a production video, I think they use a 1x1, biaxial layer, some sort of thin core material, biaxial layer and a spread tow on the bottom. Then the underside is a smooth finish since they use a compression mold. Of course, top notch stuff!

    [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":318986}


    Leave a comment:


  • Epsilon
    replied
    For the curious, just adding BMW M4 F82 stock carbon roof photos since few have seen the underside w/o the headliner:

    Click image for larger version

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  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by Epsilon View Post

    Found this rare E46 M3 Vorsteiner carbon roof on the internet that seems interesting and wanted to share. Note that the underside looks like fabric. Is that the biaxial fabric you speak of?
    Hard to tell from the pic. Looks like some sort of chop strand veil.

    Leave a comment:


  • sasha
    replied
    subscribed

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  • Epsilon
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
    That is odd. When I make my roofs I use a biaxial fabric under the exterior layer which takes care of any voids since the tows are 45 degrees from the outer layer. Then I use a thicker layer on the bottom.
    Found this rare E46 M3 Vorsteiner carbon roof on the internet that seems interesting and wanted to share. Note that the underside looks like fabric. Is that the biaxial fabric you speak of?

    Click image for larger version  Name:	545663219_1108424708045494_3821465227973812436_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	101.3 KB ID:	318723 Click image for larger version  Name:	545478507_1097895685807053_3705343724230421267_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	136.6 KB ID:	318719 Click image for larger version  Name:	546406508_24608991605386483_497919312298211049_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	74.3 KB ID:	318721 Click image for larger version  Name:	547275768_2315109198942936_5133478119494276796_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	87.5 KB ID:	318720 Click image for larger version  Name:	546525553_1513384066486443_6300243863674073295_n.jpg Views:	0 Size:	108.0 KB ID:	318722
    Last edited by Epsilon; 09-12-2025, 03:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by Epsilon View Post

    The photos are from the outside. You can see the hole under the sun too.



    I have the RKP roof I purchased from IND.


    Here's a photo from the inside when sunny out:
    Click image for larger version

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    That is odd. When I make my roofs I use a biaxial fabric under the exterior layer which takes care of any voids since the tows are 45 degrees from the outer layer. Then I use a thicker layer on the bottom.

    Leave a comment:

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