Sway bar links for KWs

[eacmen]

Bumping this. Installed AC Delco's around 5k miles ago back in June. They were good for a few weeks but ultimately did not survive the trip across country to CA and my front end clunk has returned.

Is it possible I installed them wrong and that's why they went bad so quickly? The drive across country was pretty rough and I drove hard, but they went out super fast imo. Should I replace them with another set since they're cheap, or go with a different brand.

If there was preload on the end link during install it will put more stress on it and cause premature failure.


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[Slideways]

Bumping this. Installed AC Delco's around 5k miles ago back in June. They were good for a few weeks but ultimately did not survive the trip across country to CA and my front end clunk has returned.

Is it possible I installed them wrong and that's why they went bad so quickly? The drive across country was pretty rough and I drove hard, but they went out super fast imo. Should I replace them with another set since they're cheap, or go with a different brand.

Did you torque them to spec?

[Gstlund]

Stock works just fine with Öhlins R&T.

Old thread bump.

Did you ever find an answer re: links for Ohlins?

I’m getting a metal on metal sound when angling for driveways/bumps on the front and rear that has to be sway bar related. Based on this thread, I’m thinking the new OEM links weren’t the right call.

[Slideways]

Old thread bump.

Did you ever find an answer re: links for Ohlins?

I’m getting a metal on metal sound when angling for driveways/bumps on the front and rear that has to be sway bar related. Based on this thread, I’m thinking the new OEM links weren’t the right call.

For the Ohlins, the springs need to have the lettering facing the outside of the wheelwell; otherwise, there will be a spring binding sound when going up driveways.

[MTiz]

If there was preload on the end link during install it will put more stress on it and cause premature failure.


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What do you mean by preload?

Did you torque them to spec?

I remember the torque spec being 48ft/lbs but it's entirely possible I torqued them too much.

I may get up under there and check to make sure the sway bar itself isn't loose and causing noise, once this heat wave breaks.

[fattycharged]

Does anyone recall what cars front sway bar links to order for the KW replacements? And if they were shorter slightly vs the OE 46?

For those asking wtf, years ago we found out (ericSMG iirc) that the links were identical to a Chevrolet something if memory serves me correctly. KW’s links used to be notorious fragile.

These links also will work with most lowering springs.


Answer:
AC delco (best brand for these)




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Chasen, these still good to use? I shredded the greasable units boots during a lazy ugga dugga removal this week and need to replace them with something less messy.

[jayjaya29]

So the problem with these USDM endlinks is the threaded shaft is an standard size and not metric. So its slightly smaller then it should be. They will not last very long. I went with ground control endlinks and they've held up well, comparatively.

[Tbonem3]

Shaft thickness doesn't matter as the nut and bearing's flat face are effectively welded to the swaybar end (or the strut sway tab) from fastening/tension. If the nut backs off a little, maybe the smaller threaded shaft would knock around more, but even factory/metric shafts knock around when the nut comes loose (a common thing).

Swaybar nuts really need to be torqued correctly, with a lock nut (or thread locker), in my experience.