Getting Torque Wrench on diff Bolts?

[oceansize]

CMP subframe bushings as well, but I dropped my entire subframe as I was refreshing everything. Like you guys I found out that yep they really do change geometry as advertised. Next time I'm in there going to install a Nord Lock Washer as recommended in this post.

https://youtu.be/IKwWu2w1gGk?t=204

[eacmen]

That's too bad to hear about the issue with the CMP bushings as I will have those installed soon enough. I'll have to look into some of the locking solutions posted.

With OEM bushings I could always get on it square, not exactly easy but it would work.

I'll likely just attach the diff. to the subframe/torque the bolts before it all (rear-end) goes back onto the car so I'm good to go this one time at least.

If i had to do this job again (all rear ball joints) i would 100 percent just drop the whole subframe.

[Cubieman]

That's too bad to hear about the issue with the CMP bushings as I will have those installed soon enough. I'll have to look into some of the locking solutions posted.

With OEM bushings I could always get on it square, not exactly easy but it would work.

I'll likely just attach the diff. to the subframe/torque the bolts before it all (rear-end) goes back onto the car so I'm good to go this one time at least.

[heinzboehmer]

Yeah I was thinking of a split spring lock washer or something too, especially since the bushing has so much flat metal contact area.

Do you have the Rogue solution for stripped threads with the oversized bushing?

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I just drilled the hole out and tapped it for a bigger bolt. Drilled out a new stock diff bushing too.

Previously had a timesert, but because of bad luck (or more likely installation error lol), it sripped out the re-made threads. Only real option I had was to move up to a bigger bolt.

[eacmen]

For the rear 2, I don't remember if I calculated or guesstimated in the past, but the 90 degrees takes those bolts to about equiv of 55-65 lbs ft, so not small. Especially since they also clamp down the diff cover so the diff doesn't move around and twist. I just use the 2 wrench threaded together method with that adapter set that folks suggested for the chain tensioner on the old forum. I don't think those bolts are tty, so you don't have to get 90 in single sweep.

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I was much beyond 65 ft-lb based on my bicep math.

[mrgizmo04]

For the rear 2, I don't remember if I calculated or guesstimated in the past, but the 90 degrees takes those bolts to about equiv of 55-65 lbs ft, so not small. Especially since they also clamp down the diff cover so the diff doesn't move around and twist. I just use the 2 wrench threaded together method with that adapter set that folks suggested for the chain tensioner on the old forum. I don't think those bolts are tty, so you don't have to get 90 in single sweep.

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[mrgizmo04]

Same thing here. In my case it's made worse by the fact that I have a bigger bolt in there (so socket is also bigger).

I used blue loctite and one of these: https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/

Yeah I was thinking of a split spring lock washer or something too, especially since the bushing has so much flat metal contact area.

Do you have the Rogue solution for stripped threads with the oversized bushing?

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[eacmen]

When I had stock or poly subframe bushings, I had no problem getting to the front diff bolt straight in with an extension without removing any plastics, etc.

Ever since I installed CMP raising bushings, the geometry changed so that the extension now hits the rear cross member and the socket would not go on square. I am afraid to use a swivel at that torque spec because I had bad experience with high torque applications with the swivel twisting/effectively contracting and coming off the bolt head (different project, not in this car).

So unfortunately, my process now to get to front diff bolt is - remove the plastic shields, the v brace, section 2, support the subframe under the rear jack point with a jack, remove the front 2 subframe nuts, remove the the cross member...

I was upset about that after I found out, so now I'm thinking of using loctite so I dont have to get in there few times a year to check...

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This explains alot. I, in fact, have the solid cmp subframe bushings.

[heinzboehmer]

When I had stock or poly subframe bushings, I had no problem getting to the front diff bolt straight in with an extension without removing any plastics, etc.

Ever since I installed CMP raising bushings, the geometry changed so that the extension now hits the rear cross member and the socket would not go on square. I am afraid to use a swivel at that torque spec because I had bad experience with high torque applications with the swivel twisting/effectively contracting and coming off the bolt head (different project, not in this car).

So unfortunately, my process now to get to front diff bolt is - remove the plastic shields, the v brace, section 2, support the subframe under the rear jack point with a jack, remove the front 2 subframe nuts, remove the the cross member...

I was upset about that after I found out, so now I'm thinking of using loctite so I dont have to get in there few times a year to check...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Same thing here. In my case it's made worse by the fact that I have a bigger bolt in there (so socket is also bigger).

I used blue loctite and one of these: https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/

[mrgizmo04]

When I had stock or poly subframe bushings, I had no problem getting to the front diff bolt straight in with an extension without removing any plastics, etc.

Ever since I installed CMP raising bushings, the geometry changed so that the extension now hits the rear cross member and the socket would not go on square. I am afraid to use a swivel at that torque spec because I had bad experience with high torque applications with the swivel twisting/effectively contracting and coming off the bolt head (different project, not in this car).

So unfortunately, my process now to get to front diff bolt is - remove the plastic shields, the v brace, section 2, support the subframe under the rear jack point with a jack, remove the front 2 subframe nuts, remove the the cross member...

I was upset about that after I found out, so now I'm thinking of using loctite so I dont have to get in there few times a year to check...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[eacmen]

A mediumish (3-4" long) 1/2" extension has worked well for me for the front bolt

Thanks. I eventually got it, but was cringing the whole time as it wasn’t really square to the bolt.

The rear bolts wasn’t able to achieve 90 deg, even with 3/8 breaker bar and cheater pipe was only able to get 80 deg.

[heinzboehmer]

A mediumish (3-4" long) 1/2" extension has worked well for me for the front bolt

[eacmen]

Curious what combination of sockets/extensions/swivels people are using to torque the diff bolts to spec. The rear ones arent bad as its just 15 lb-ft initially then the 90 deg. But I am having a hard time getting a socket square on the front diff bolt for that 148 ft-lbs!