Overheating on Idle/AC on

[ChapterM3]

ChapterM3


The following upcoming failure.
How you have been driving for those times.

kkkk

You need to fix this asap, or head out..


Regards,
Anri

Edit: Got it - yes, this was something that I experienced which ended up causing my headgasket to go prematurely. I'd try to get this heating issue dialed in immediately OP!

[kkkk]

Its so interesting how the temps go up to 99C with the AC on, and as soon as I turn it off It goes down to 89C.
This is just with the car idling.
Iv even put a booster pack on while running the AC and my voltage doesnt change. Granted my voltage is about 13.6-13.8V and the booster pack is 12V
How did you manage to put an Efan from a 330i. Did you delete the clutch fan or aux fan then?

[Stilt]

Its so interesting how the temps go up to 99C with the AC on, and as soon as I turn it off It goes down to 89C.
This is just with the car idling.
Iv even put a booster pack on while running the AC and my voltage doesnt change. Granted my voltage is about 13.6-13.8V and the booster pack is 12V
How did you manage to put an Efan from a 330i. Did you delete the clutch fan or aux fan then?

So I removed the clutch fan and then put the e-fan from the 330 in its place. I didn't have to wire anything, because It's plug and play and uses the controller from the puller / aux fan.

I then edited the fan curve via a bin editor to my liking and boom, works great.

My friend, another member on the forum, suggested I do the e-fan from a 330i, and that even with a turbo s54 he has no issues, so I was all for it.

You could go as far as making your own shroud, like below, to make it more aesthetically pleasing.




Or just use a piece of sheet metal and cut it to size and then mount the fan to it.


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[sapote]

Had another look at this today to try and diagnose
1. Diagnostics say that the engine temp is 86C (engine coolant temp ) but the bottom radiator outlet is 45C.
is a 40 degree drop in radiator temp too much ???

2. when I unplug the temp sensor for the bottom radiator outlet the fan spins at 50-60 percent duty cycle . Shouldn’t it spin at 100 percent as a fail safe ?

3. Iv been driving around for the last 2 years and the coolant temp goes from around 90-92C. If it push it it may go to 94, but does come back down. I never see it below 89C unless the engine is still cold.
If I turn on the AC it may go up to 96C (and climb)

1. Lower hose at 45C means coolant was not flowing through the rad yet, eventhough the engine temp = 86C. What is the spec for the Tstat as there are different opening temp Tstats available?
Do you think the Tstat should be opened at 86C?

2. How do know it spiining at 50-60% -- by ear and guessing?

3. So far I have not seen evidences of the Tstat internal electrical heater working -- at high load (acceleration and uphill) the mapped Tstat should turn on and significant temp dropped. Have you experienced the mapped Tstat working?

[sapote]

Iv even put a booster pack on while running the AC and my voltage doesnt change. Granted my voltage is about 13.6-13.8V and the booster pack is 12V

Booster pack = 12v; 12v is the measured value? There is no battery that perfectly equal 12v. When talking about alternator and battery voltages, it's importance to be precise down to 1/10 of a volt.

I start to think the issue could be due to low supply voltage at the fan driver module. I would try to measure it when the fan is runnning with hot engine. Ideally it should be close to 14v -- lower voltage will cause slower fan speed. I.e. alternator charging batt at 13.6v is OK for charging, but this can cause a bit slow fan speed and overheated coolant.

My M3 is 14v with engine idling; it's interesting to know how many cars with 14 or higher, and how many with 13.7v or lower. The M3 is a high power engine, and the fan speed is important to keep the cooling system working properly.

[kkkk]

Still having issues?

I had over heating issues when I was running a clutch fan, and it was brand new. Mind you not I had done a full cooling system overhaul.

Recently I decided to redo the water pump gasket, the 2 gaskets that go between the heater core pipe and thermostat housing and pretty much every other gasket, using the Wolfn8tr gaskets. I also put in an e fan from a manual 330i ($60 bucks, so I couldn't resist).

I am no longer having over heating issues.

—
Side note, I was so fixated on the idea that I had a blown head gasket, tested and I was good.


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Did you keep the electric aux fan in the front also when you did your 330i e fan conversion?

[sapote]

Did you keep the electric aux fan in the front also when you did your 330i e fan conversion?

It’s impossible to have 2 e-fans controlled by Dme, unless someone really knows what you’re doing.

[Stilt]

It’s impossible to have 2 e-fans controlled by Dme, unless someone really knows what you’re doing.

Yep, was about to say that.

[Stilt]

Did you keep the electric aux fan in the front also when you did your 330i e fan conversion?

It's there, but I can't use it since I took the connector that would go to the pusher fan and plugged it into the fan behind the rad.

I plan to remove it and install an actual Spal, as opposed to my 10 min fix lol, but I've just been busy and lazy.

[kkkk]

If you ran a SPAL would you also be able to run the front electric aux fan?

[Stilt]

If you ran a SPAL would you also be able to run the front electric aux fan?

Yes, it just depends on how you wire it. Some people use the aux fan controller to make it easier. But when i buy / install the spal i think ill keep the aux fan and wire the spal using a different controller.


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