Timing chain tensioner seal replacement

[BL92]

I personally would not go more than 80, clean it thoroughly. I would sand it with 1000 grit to ensure it is as flat as it can be.

I think it was a blocked crankcase vent valve, causing the leak, too much pressure ?

> check this out = https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...ase-vent-valve

[BL92]

Originally posted by ATB88 View Post

Well.. I feel like a dummy: for some reason I had remembered reading that the right thing to do when re-installing the TCT was to "prime" it by completely compressing it while submerged in oil, and allowing it to decompress and take oil in. I don't remember where I read this or why it had stuck in my head as correct.

I recently re-timed my engine, and performed this incorrect procedure that fills the TCT with oil rather than purges it of oil as described in the correct instructions.

Question is: how bad is this? Why does the oil need to be pushed out before reuse to begin with, isn't it just going to refill with oil during operation?

Do I need to remove my TCT and re-do this with the correct procedure?



Bump on this, I did not push out oil from TCT before re-install, in fact I filled it with oil. Is this a problem, should I re-do it?

Don't touch it, It's Fine, otherwise it might start leaking like mine

[ATB88]

Well.. I feel like a dummy: for some reason I had remembered reading that the right thing to do when re-installing the TCT was to "prime" it by completely compressing it while submerged in oil, and allowing it to decompress and take oil in. I don't remember where I read this or why it had stuck in my head as correct.

I recently re-timed my engine, and performed this incorrect procedure that fills the TCT with oil rather than purges it of oil as described in the correct instructions.

Question is: how bad is this? Why does the oil need to be pushed out before reuse to begin with, isn't it just going to refill with oil during operation?

Do I need to remove my TCT and re-do this with the correct procedure?

Bump on this, I did not push out oil from TCT before re-install, in fact I filled it with oil. Is this a problem, should I re-do it?

[maupineda]

I personally would not go more than 80, clean it thoroughly. I would sand it with 1000 grit to ensure it is as flat as it can be.

[BL92]

Still Leaking with new Tensioner from ina and new crush washer.

i think it's the wobble bit, altering the torque value

see attachment, so i am gonna ramp up the torque using this chart and hopefully it will stop

[ATB88]

You've definitely got the best access to this that you'll ever have with the engine out of the car, so I would replace it. Undo the tensioner, make sure the sealing surfaces are nice (I usually run some red scotchbrite over them), replace the crush washer and reinstall.



Nah, should be fine to reuse. But make sure you follow the reuse instructions:

Well.. I feel like a dummy: for some reason I had remembered reading that the right thing to do when re-installing the TCT was to "prime" it by completely compressing it while submerged in oil, and allowing it to decompress and take oil in. I don't remember where I read this or why it had stuck in my head as correct.

I recently re-timed my engine, and performed this incorrect procedure that fills the TCT with oil rather than purges it of oil as described in the correct instructions.

Question is: how bad is this? Why does the oil need to be pushed out before reuse to begin with, isn't it just going to refill with oil during operation?

Do I need to remove my TCT and re-do this with the correct procedure?

[BL92]

Not a good idea using the thread sealer, the oil input is before the threads, waste of time, I am changing the oil again right now asap








I am guessing it's seized or something, and over pressurising,?? I have ordered a new 1 anyway, INA from Greshm









The UK Forums, They suggest one of these seals

https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/m26-metric-self-centring-bonded-dowty-washer-seal-1465-p.asp

[maupineda]

I had the same issue twice. And only until I used a new crush washer and sealant it stopped. That joint is very stubborn. I can tell you this. By mistake I set the wrench to 70ftlb and immediately cramped out!!! I then undid it and check threads and redid the job with a new seal and went to 70nm with sealant and all was good

so the joint seems to be strong enojos for some more torque, typically up to 10% should be fine. So try again and do 70, test, with a heat cycle the washer would crush more and re torque to 70 and drive again, if not ok, go to 75.

if you want to try the stepped process do not use thread sealer as that will throw the torque out. Try dry.

if tha above does not work I would not go past 80 and will just live with it. Is it too bad or just a sip? Make sure you clean the threads with a lint free cloth and remove old sealer you may have used. You may need to use break cleaner but you are up for an oil change.

[BL92]

No dice

Used the thread sealer and it's still leaking, I might replace it, obviously some thing wrong, can't take pics of the CT removed until the engine cools down, maybe you guys can see if i am missing something

maybe the wobble bar is throwing off the 70nm

[sapote]

Cause i replaced my gasket O'Ring and just noticed it's leaking again as well?

It's a crushed washer, not gasket nor o-ring.

[BL92]

Cool, Thank you for responding

This will be the 3rd crush washer now, I just used a caliper, and the Elring Crush washer that was supplied in my head gasket kit is 1mm thinner ?? This crush washer leaks as well

I will try thread sealant and a new OE washer from BMW

[maupineda]

What's the go with that man? How come? Cause i replaced my gasket O'Ring and just noticed it's leaking again as well?, Took it out and inspected, Cleaned, Pumped the oil out couldn't see any issues? Unless i missed something? It's a bit varnished ? I Torqued to 70nm, Started the car and I watched the tensioner with an inspection mirror as it developed an oil drop from the bottom of the tensioner within 5 minutes.? Should i just order another 1?

What thread sealant did you go with? Cure time?



( Just to add I just had the solenoid pack off, AC unbolted and moved to the side, AC pulley and bracket off, brake cleaned etc, 100% all clean and dry above and around the entire area now to rule out any possibilities )

Make sure you replace the crush washer. Thread sealer takes 24hrs to cure. I used permatex.

[BL92]

I torqued to 70NM, on my platform there is a bit more space, yet it could still have some siping, so I put thread sealant, and done! Dry as a bone.

What's the go with that man? How come? Cause i replaced the crush washer and just noticed it's leaking again as well?, Took it out and inspected, Cleaned, Pumped the oil out couldn't see any issues? Unless i missed something? It's a bit varnished ? I Torqued to 70nm, Started the car and I watched the tensioner with an inspection mirror as it developed an oil drop from the bottom of the tensioner within 5 minutes.? Should i just order another 1?

What thread sealant did you go with? Cure time?



( Just to add I just had the solenoid pack off, AC unbolted and moved to the side, AC pulley and bracket off, brake cleaned etc, 100% all clean and dry above and around the entire area now to rule out any possibilities )

[maupineda]

I torqued to 70NM, on my platform there is a bit more space, yet it could still have some siping, so I put thread sealant, and done! Dry as a bone.

[Slideways]

That Husky socket is ~3.05 inches or ~77.5 mm deep according to my micrometer. A stubbier one would definitely give you more room. That one just barely fits and you're certainly not getting a torque wrench on it.

Standard tq wrenches won't really fit, but the flex head of the techangle will let you torque it down with an adapter and normal length 1/2" socket. Doing it by feel also works.