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  • 8 Coupe
    replied
    Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post
    Never mind the non-stroked part, its just as relevant, for me at least. This thread has some helpful bits and its nice to see documentation of a real build. Are you based in Australia/NZ?

    Just curious. I got that hunch from the girdle which I hadn't seen before for this motor (that's probably more due to lack of knowledge of in this modified S54 world)

    Did you discuss any specific power levels with your builder before beginning or was it generally known the abilities of the motor and the focus was on how to do it right?
    Yes, I live in Brisbane, Australia.

    The girdle is used by a number of guys driving Track BMW’s in Australia. It’s been designed to fit M50’s, M54’s, S50’s as well as the S54. I think that it would also fit the US spec S52 but doesn’t fit the M52. As the crankshaft tries to flex on power strokes, the forces imparted to the main bearing caps obviously get transferred into the block so the girdle stops these forces causing flex in the block thus keeping the crankshaft straight. Used in conjunction with a quality harmonic balancer, there shouldn’t be any crankshaft failures when being hammered during track events.

    The discussions with my engine builder were about finding the balance between power & longevity. Obviously, we all want the most HP that we can get out of an engine but, as this is an expensive build, I want to get many years of track time out of it. The selection of large (but not huge) cams, standard size valves and the big end bearing modifications were part of achieving that balance. With the engine running on E85 (necessary with the 12.5:1 compression ratio), longer duration cams with improved flow through the intake and headers, we’re aiming for 350WHP. The use of the JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch combination should slightly reduce drivetrain loss due to the reduction in diameter and weight.
    Last edited by 8 Coupe; 08-09-2020, 04:01 PM.

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  • SteelGreyM
    replied
    Originally posted by 8 Coupe View Post
    Mod Journals

    JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch Kit
    What clutch did you choose with your lightweight flywheel?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • jbfrancis3
    replied
    Never mind the non-stroked part, its just as relevant, for me at least. This thread has some helpful bits and its nice to see documentation of a real build. Are you based in Australia/NZ?

    Just curious. I got that hunch from the girdle which I hadn't seen before for this motor (that's probably more due to lack of knowledge of in this modified S54 world)

    Did you discuss any specific power levels with your builder before beginning or was it generally known the abilities of the motor and the focus was on how to do it right?

    Leave a comment:


  • 8 Coupe
    replied
    Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post

    Thanks for sharing. Its a stock crank, yes? If I'm reading right, slightly over-bore and stock stoke?


    Yes, it is a stock crank. I know that this thread is about a stroked build but, as there was significant discussion about other aspects of the build, I thought I’d contribute.

    The previous engine that my engine builder completed was a stroked 3.5L S54 with a dry sump. He’s currently waiting for the dyno results to see how it’s come together.

    One of my main concerns when I started the build was to overcome the biggest weakness of the S54 which is excessive wear of the big end bearings - especially when regularly stressed with track work. I have great respect for Andrew Lang and if you go to his Lang Racing website (https://www.langracing.com/addressin...ification-kit/), he details this problem and his solution. If you look at his pictures, you can see the significant increase in journal width to take the wider Con Rods & big end bearings. My builder was uncomfortable with taking that much metal from the crank so we came up with the idea of widening the journals by only 1mm and taking 0.5mm off each side of the big end flanges on the con rods. This allowed the use of S50B32 bearings which are 2mm wider than standard S54 bearings (the length and other dimensions are suitable for substituting the S50 rod for the OE S54 rod). Following the machining, extensive efforts were made to weight match the rods & pistons as well as balance the crankshaft. We had to wait quite a few months because of a backlog at the best machine shop in my city but, as it’s such a critical section of the engine, it was worth waiting and getting it done right. The block was machined with a torque plate in place to ensure the most accurate finish. The weight of the Carrillo Rods & Pistons is lighter than the OE components so, the change to wider Rods & Bearings, should have no adverse effect on the engine’s ability to rev highly.

    The pic in my first post shows how well this crank journal/ Con Rod setup has gone together (as well as showing the “girdle” which adds significant rigidity to the block to protect the crankshaft when being stressed on the track). The first pic in this post shows the wider crankshaft journals after it returned from machining.
    Last edited by 8 Coupe; 07-23-2020, 05:17 AM.

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  • jbfrancis3
    replied
    Originally posted by 8 Coupe View Post
    I've just discovered this thread and thought that I would contribute the details of the S54 that I'm currently having built. I've spent more than 2 years researching all the available S54 performance parts and, with the advice of my engine builder, the following is the package that I've gone firm on.
    Thanks for sharing. Its a stock crank, yes? If I'm reading right, slightly over-bore and stock stoke?

    Leave a comment:


  • 8 Coupe
    replied
    Mod Journals

    I've just discovered this thread and thought that I would contribute the details of the S54 that I'm currently having built. I've spent more than 2 years researching all the available S54 performance parts and, with the advice of my engine builder, the following is the package that I've gone firm on.

    This engine is designed for an E36 track car but, with strength and longevity for the engine in mind, I'm not going too extreme. It will run on E85 fuel, 6 speed manual gearbox & 4.45 ratio LS Diff (fairly tight tracks in my area).


    Steel “girdle” secured with ARP Bolts to make the block as rigid/strong as possible (https://www.difflab.com.au/products/...-engine-girdle)
    Ross Performance Harmonic Balancer (similar to ATI) (https://rossperformanceparts.com/pro...rmonic-damper/)
    Crank Journals ground 1mm wider to accept wider S50 Euro Big End Bearings - ACL Main & Big End Bearings (S50B32 size)
    Carrillo Euro S50B32 Connecting Rods - Big End flanges machined to be 1mm narrower
    Carrillo S54 high compression pistons (12.5:1) Bore 87.25mm
    Cometic .051” thickness MLS head gasket
    Supertech Black Nitride Intake Valves, Single groove keepers
    Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves, Single groove keepers
    Supertech double Valve Springs with steel retainers
    Supertech Valve Stem Seals (Viton)
    Schrick DLC Cam Followers
    Cat Cams 296/288 camshafts, 13mm lift
    New Timing Chain & Guides including Beisan upper Chain Guide
    VAC upgraded VANOS Exhaust Hub
    ARP Cylinder Head Studs
    Achilles Under-Drive pulley kit
    Achilles Accelerator Cable Adapter Kit
    Supersprint V1 Stepped Headers flowing into Y single 3.5" exhaust (lighter than dual 2.5")
    Radium Fuel Rail, Pressure Regulator & Fuel Pressure Gauge
    High Flow Fuel Injectors (1000cc)
    Kassel Performance MAP Sensor Kit
    Intake Plenum modified to increase airflow (may end up buying the Karbonius plenum)
    Link Fury ECU
    Bespoke wiring harness
    JB Racing Ultra Light Flywheel/Clutch Kit

    The engine has been assembled up to the stage of setting the Cam timing. The VANOS has been refurbished with Beisan parts and is ready to go on. The machining and build has gone very well and the engine builder is very happy with the quality of the parts and the way they went together.

    The car has had the previous engine and drivetrain removed and is in the process of having the fuel, electrical and exhaust systems upgraded.

    Will keep you informed with the progress of this build.
    Last edited by 8 Coupe; 08-10-2020, 06:45 PM.

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  • M/Anthony
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    You’d be nuts not to bore and torque plate hone even if it was as little as 0.25 instead of 0.5mm. What pistons specifics ?
    I didn't ask him the specs, all I know is they are custom CP pistons, I will ask more specifics when I can.

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  • digger
    replied
    You’d be nuts not to bore and torque plate hone even if it was as little as 0.25 instead of 0.5mm. What pistons specifics ?

    Leave a comment:


  • M/Anthony
    replied
    Originally posted by jbfrancis3 View Post
    Great update. Did he have any comments against boring it out (I'm assuming 3.4L comes from longer throw and stock bore)?
    he mentioned he will not bore if he doesn't have to. 3.4L typically comes from a 95mm stroke and an increase of .5mm bore. I'm not too confident on the exact rod specs, but they off the shelf ones are stock length. (139mm) Hmay have differently specced rods, will ask.

    Later on once I buy the parts I will aks for specific specs, or soon because I am urging to know where 16k is going.

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  • jbfrancis3
    replied
    Great update. Did he have any comments against boring it out (I'm assuming 3.4L comes from longer throw and stock bore)?

    Leave a comment:


  • M/Anthony
    replied
    Ok I don't know if people have forgotten about this thread but ill update it anyways

    I have talked to chris fletcher and I will have him build and spec my engine out.

    It will be a 3.4L stroker with FMH: valve springs, custom spec carillo rods, custom spec, cp pistons, PTG designed crank, custom rod bearings. Basically it is a PTG build without the 312/314 degree camshafts. I will be running close if not 400whp and very close to 300wtq
    It will be run E85, and 12:5:1 compression, 8200 rpm redline. 288/280 12.5mm lift cams- chris advised against anything bigger so I can have reliability on the road. It will also be dynoed at FMH and most likely paired with an EPIC tune

    I will be running a custom CSL airbox that routes air from the kidneys, Bimmerworld.
    I still have to figure out the ideal exhaust and header setup
    And learn how to do valve adjustments (every 10-15k miles)

    Surprisingly this build isn't that much considering how indef, who is building it, and the parts being replaced.

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  • digger
    replied
    it was basically a promo for Callies as conveniently they offer both options so have all bases covered.

    Many of these kinds of articles have agendas in the background that's how they get funded the aftermarket industry is full of this kind of thing. Some of these kinds of articles are good and are correct but others have hidden motives its a real shame. A good way to find out what works is find an independent long term engine builder who's god a really good reputation. Their reputation is dependent on the products they use as they have found out what works and ask them. Thats also problematic as some get more profit selling certain brand parts like tire salesmen who push tires they profit more from.
    Last edited by digger; 05-14-2020, 06:14 PM.

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  • Feffman
    replied
    Guess I should have clarified the Engine Labs article wasn't a promo for one company's rods, but more toward the info of design ("I" versus "H" beam) and metallurgy with the two varieties of steel alloys mentioned. I know very little of the not-so-popular rod manufacturers so when the time comes, likely next year, I'll bite the bullet on CP-Carrillo.

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  • digger
    replied
    Originally posted by Feffman View Post
    Interesting article from Engine Labs about connecting rod design type.

    https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ods-explained/

    Feff
    I've done a fair bit of FEA on rods and don't agree with that article that H-beams are better for higher rpm NA engines. I-beams are better in extreme rpm applications that's why version of it were used in F1 high rpm era the load paths are better under tensile loads less likely to crack.

    Also H-beams provide slightly better support for the pin and BE journals in compression that's why big cylinder pressure engines predominantly run them and then step up to aluminum if it’s not enough.

    So observations don’t agree with the article, must have excess stock they are trying to flog off

    I agree for most applications the beam doesn't matter at all just look at Pauter rods lol worst of the worst. Best of the best would be the Honda F1 rectangular hollow style rods.

    A NA S54 falls into that category where the beam type is just not critical. It just needs to be good material, good bolts and to be well machined any of them will work. I like Molnar for an H-beam lightweight and slim profile

    https://molnarrods.com/bmw-connecting-rods

    sources of I-beams


    https://www.zrp-rods.com/shop/bmw-m3...nnecting-rods/

    https://www.hurricanerods.com/produc...l#.XrzqvWgzaUk
    http://www.performancebyie.eu/index....roduct_id=1268
    https://www.pureperformancemotorspor...ds-pleuel.html

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  • Speed Monkey
    replied
    Yup, those are some bootyful rods mang. 🤣 🤪
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