Fans really only function when the car is stationary, so
I assume he means removing it .
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Ron Davis makes a radiator http://www.rondavisradiators.com/BMW...3-radiator.htm but not and oil cooler is that what your referencing?Originally posted by t44tq View Post
do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.
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do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.Originally posted by Cronenberged View PostThe C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.
Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.
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Nissens is low quality crap. Stay away. Now that I've said that, I'm sure a ton of people will chime in, saying that they've no zero issues with Nissens. If you're going to buy an OE type radiator that isn't a genuine BMW boxed radiator, get a Koyo.Originally posted by Nate047 View PostI'm about due for a full system refresh, any reason to not go with the OE (not original BMW) kit from FCP? It's like a $600 difference. Specifically, any gripes with the Nissens radiator?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...6m3compcoolkt1
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The OE system, as Obioban mentioned, can be improved with subtraction. The issue is going to be oil cooling. IMO...can only be fixed by adding more coolers.Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post
If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?
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From what I've seen, all the aftermarket options are downgrades. If you need more cooling than stock, your options are removing obstructions (AC condenser, fan shrouds), and better exhausting (hood ducts, etc).Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post
If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?
That said, I've never seen anyone that's not FI overheating their car on track with a new stock cooling system. For FI people, I've never seen them solve their overheat issues on track with an aftermarket cooling system.
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If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post
Plenty of data on M3Forum.net. Mishimoto is mostly rebranded eBay stuff that they charge 2x-4x the price.
My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?
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The C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.
Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.
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Larger doesn't mean better. In the case of M cars - usually means worse. I think it has been proven that the volume of airflow through the radiators is optimized from the factory. Really the only way to get more cooling is to introduce more air to more cooling surface area - oil and water. So if you have a larger or thicker radiator with the same amount of air flow then you will get less cooling.Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post
I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.
The quality of airflow is as important as adding coolers. I've been considering moving the OEM radiator forward, closer to the bumper reinforcement, so I can duct the backside of the radiator out of the hood. This would significantly increase air flow through the radiator (and oil cooler) and provide far superior cooling performance. For me, I would be doing for more for oil temp control.
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I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.Originally posted by Driver407 View PostSeems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?
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