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Tracking car hard in hot climate

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  • Obioban
    replied
    Fans really only function when the car is stationary, so
    I assume he means removing it .

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  • eacmen
    replied
    Originally posted by simonnim View Post
    From experience, replacing the fan clutch helps A LOT.
    Replacing the clutch fan with a new clutch fan or going to electric?

    Leave a comment:


  • simonnim
    replied
    From experience, replacing the fan clutch helps A LOT.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cronenberged
    replied
    Originally posted by t44tq View Post

    do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.
    Ron Davis makes a radiator http://www.rondavisradiators.com/BMW...3-radiator.htm but not and oil cooler is that what your referencing?

    Leave a comment:


  • t44tq
    replied
    Originally posted by Cronenberged View Post
    The C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.

    Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.
    do88 radiators have a bad rep with Volvo owners, don't know if anything is different with BMWs- they leak, poor QC seems to be the cause. It's weird, because the companies that do radiators for Corvettes seem to be fine- DeWitts & Ron Davis. But they don't do BMW, generally. And they're both companies that make radiators in the US.

    Leave a comment:


  • t44tq
    replied
    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
    I'm about due for a full system refresh, any reason to not go with the OE (not original BMW) kit from FCP? It's like a $600 difference. Specifically, any gripes with the Nissens radiator?

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...6m3compcoolkt1
    Nissens is low quality crap. Stay away. Now that I've said that, I'm sure a ton of people will chime in, saying that they've no zero issues with Nissens. If you're going to buy an OE type radiator that isn't a genuine BMW boxed radiator, get a Koyo.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post

    If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
    My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?
    The OE system, as Obioban mentioned, can be improved with subtraction. The issue is going to be oil cooling. IMO...can only be fixed by adding more coolers.

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  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post

    If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
    My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?
    From what I've seen, all the aftermarket options are downgrades. If you need more cooling than stock, your options are removing obstructions (AC condenser, fan shrouds), and better exhausting (hood ducts, etc).

    That said, I've never seen anyone that's not FI overheating their car on track with a new stock cooling system. For FI people, I've never seen them solve their overheat issues on track with an aftermarket cooling system.

    Leave a comment:


  • GolanM3
    replied
    Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

    Plenty of data on M3Forum.net. Mishimoto is mostly rebranded eBay stuff that they charge 2x-4x the price.
    If you could share some test data it'll be helpful.
    My impression is there is only a small percentage of owners that are pushing the stock cooling system to its limits in race or track conditions. In most other scenarios, even when pushed hard on the streets, the stock system should have no issues to handle the heat and in many cases, even at the track the stock system could suffice. However, the question was what is the next level radiator for these vehicle? is it Zionville? C&R?

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post

    Can you share data to support this statement?
    Plenty of data on M3Forum.net. Mishimoto is mostly rebranded eBay stuff that they charge 2x-4x the price.

    Leave a comment:


  • GolanM3
    replied
    Originally posted by Obioban View Post

    And yet, it performs worse than stock.
    Can you share data to support this statement?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cronenberged
    replied
    The C&R is cheaper if you buy direct and not from Bimmerworld. it's single pass like the OE radiator and similar in size as well. I'm torn between that and OE myself, only considering OE cause of FCPs warranty where the C&R is only 5 years.

    Anyone have good feedback on the do88? Its thicker than stock but they built it around the same dimensions as if the plastic shroud was on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • bigjae46
    replied
    Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post

    I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.
    Larger doesn't mean better. In the case of M cars - usually means worse. I think it has been proven that the volume of airflow through the radiators is optimized from the factory. Really the only way to get more cooling is to introduce more air to more cooling surface area - oil and water. So if you have a larger or thicker radiator with the same amount of air flow then you will get less cooling.

    The quality of airflow is as important as adding coolers. I've been considering moving the OEM radiator forward, closer to the bumper reinforcement, so I can duct the backside of the radiator out of the hood. This would significantly increase air flow through the radiator (and oil cooler) and provide far superior cooling performance. For me, I would be doing for more for oil temp control.

    Leave a comment:


  • Obioban
    replied
    Originally posted by GolanM3 View Post

    I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.
    And yet, it performs worse than stock.

    Leave a comment:


  • GolanM3
    replied
    Originally posted by Driver407 View Post
    Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
    How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?
    I'd recommend the Mishitomo for aftermarket application. It's larger, aluminum construction, good quality and has test data behind it to demonstrate performance.

    Leave a comment:

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