Tracking car hard in hot climate

[Obioban]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

What aspect of fresh stock are you finding deficient, that you want to improve on?

[ridebikes]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

I don't think you'll find consensus around anything other than OEM.

[Driver407]

Seems fairly clear the CSF should be avoided from the audience here.
How about radiator and oil units that people DO recommend, aside from OEM? Koyo? Bimmerworld/C&R? Other?

[bigjae46]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

CSF doesn't do anything better than OE. With the issues...could be worse. I'd stick with OE.

The OE M3 cooling system is pretty good unlike the non-M cooling systems which were terrible. You can stick with genuine BMW and be in good shape. If you want to really beat on it...improvement comes from what you delete and airflow. The OE airflow is really good especially when you delete the AC condenser.

It was an OK improvement deleting the AC and installing the CSF radiator - still around 205. Noticed a good bump by deleting the heater core, aux pump and relocating the expansion tank to the drug bin. At this point, cooling was not an issue - around 195-200

I'm never above 180 after deleting the fans. If its below 80, I'm in the high 160s/low 170s. I don't think the thermostat is open the entire lap.

My theory is by reducing the fluid capacity of the coolant system, you cycle the coolant through the radiator more often which improves cooling.

[Obioban]

There are big differences in price for the water pump, thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch (and some smaller parts). I went with a genuine water pump and OE for the rest of the parts, along with a set up upgraded o-rings from the member services section. I still have my original expansion tank and water pump pulley out of that list.

There is no OE option for the water pump, AFAIK.

[Obioban]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

I’ve seen people have issues with the Zionsville, as well.

[DoubleSidedTape]

That is very strange, good catch. I did not compare the parts individually, I just quickly looked at the kit

There are big differences in price for the water pump, thermostat, hoses, and fan clutch (and some smaller parts). I went with a genuine water pump and OE for the rest of the parts, along with a set up upgraded o-rings from the member services section. I still have my original expansion tank and water pump pulley out of that list.

[Nate047]

The genuine radiator is only $300:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-17102228941

That is very strange, good catch. I did not compare the parts individually, I just quickly looked at the kit

[Nate047]

Also, I hear a lot of gripes with CSF quality. I have not heard anything negative about Zionsville. Although the price point is higher, I think that's the way to go if you need an all aluminum racing rad.

[DoubleSidedTape]

The genuine radiator is only $300:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-radiator-e46-m3-2001-2006-oem-17102228941

[Nate047]

I'm about due for a full system refresh, any reason to not go with the OE (not original BMW) kit from FCP? It's like a $600 difference. Specifically, any gripes with the Nissens radiator?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-comprehensive-cooling-system-kit-e46-m3-e46m3compcoolkt1

[Obioban]

I have a CSF oil cooler and CSF radiator, all OEM parts from FCP everywhere else in the cooling system and I have overheating problems on track. Even the plastic pieces before/after the radiator are new OE parts.

I'd like to go back to OEM radiator and see if that fixes my issues.

It will 👍🏻

… especially combined with a new stock oil cooler.

[S14]

I have a CSF oil cooler and CSF radiator, all OEM parts from FCP everywhere else in the cooling system and I have overheating problems on track. Even the plastic pieces before/after the radiator are new OE parts.

I'd like to go back to OEM radiator and see if that fixes my issues.

[bigjae46]

Tires and grip have a role in upgrades needed, if any. If you're on 200 treadwear or higher street tires then a fresh OE system will do fine. If you're on a sticky 200 treadwear, NT01 or lower end R-comp then the OE system will not hold up when its 90 degrees outside without backing off every couple of laps.

Have to consider the track surface which plays a huge factor in track temps. For example, COTA is black top. So the air is less efficient in cooling. Also altitude.

If the car is on a trailer, there is no reason not to delete the AC, heater core and the fans. I run no fan. It is not an issue as long as I take a cool down lap or a lap around the paddock. Although water temps could spike if I suddenly come toa stop but my coolant temps are so low that I'm not really concerned about it.

Here is what I've done...

100% distilled water w/water wetter
Delete AC
Delete aux and mechanical fan
Delete heater core
CSF radiator (going back to OE at some point)
2qt aluminum expansion tank in drug bin (custom)
Stant high pressure cap
OE oil cooler
Secondary oil cooler
External oil thermostat
Diverter valve

I never had an issue with the CSF. It's not definitively better than stock either. And there is an issue with some of them, I guess I got lucky. With that said, I'll go back to stock when it comes time to replace the radiator.

Oil temps usually get up to 270 on a long session. It is higher than I'd like on the OE 10w-60 but I have to be really punishing the car in hot weather. I can use a better secondary oil cooler and mount it in a better position for better results.

It is about 60 degrees in this video - water temps never get above 175 even in the summer.

[thegenius46m]

Personally recommend avoiding CSF like the plague. Quality control is literal garbage. I’d you get units that actually function you are considered lucky.

My first csf didn’t even fit, second one is so far fine 5yrs later, but multiple friends and my local shop have received a handful of units that have dead cores out of the box and the cars start overheating. Wonder why? 🤦♂️

Recently got a d088 oil cooler and it’s excellent quality. E9x guys love them.

You can also run 80/20 water to coolant ratio and put your heater in full blast during the session. I’m in Cali too but haven’t tracked in the summer up at thill in a few years. Your car should last 10-15min before a cooldown unless you have other issues.

I personally don’t bother with track days in 100+ anymore. It’s just more wear and tear on the car and you get less sessions before the track surface is a hot mess and there is no more grip.


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