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Suspension and steering parts wear tests

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    #16
    Everyone mostly talked about bushings which is fine. I'll focus on springs and shocks.

    The test is a jounce and reboud test. The literally compress the suspension on each corner. You cause the first jounce by pushing. It should rebound a little past where it settles and the slightly jounce back into the resting position. There should only be one rebound and one slight jounce. If it does it more, shocks are worn.

    Checking spring can be as simple as checking ride height or any creaking. Look for rust and my rule of thumb is almost always do shocks AND springs for a good set up. Steel fatigues and if the shocks are worn, the springs are working overtime.

    Missing bump stops are a red flag. You need bump stops. There is a maximum travel for the shocks. This is why just lowering springs are stupid. The dust boot is just helpful. Rear lower bushing is always torqued with the vehicle weight on it. This can be done with 4 tires on the ground and slightly lowered.
    This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
    https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

    "Do it right once or do it twice"

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      #17
      Originally posted by sapote View Post
      My 1966 Porsche still has the original lower control arm ball joint with over 300K miles. As long as the rubber boot not torn, no rust and zero plays, I will continue driving.
      Slightly off topic but I have a 71 911T and almost went the same route. I think the original Porsche stuff was really over-engineered and the old, light cars simply don’t wear stuff out. That said, I did a suspension refresh and opted to change everything—on the 71 and my e46. Couldn’t help myself.

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        #18
        Arith2
        Senior Member
        Arith2 Wow. I can't believe after all these years I've neither heard of the word 'jounce' nor of a "jounce and rebound" test. I've now watched 5 youtube videos on it... Thanks for the education. This is exactly what I was inquiring about.

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          #19
          Originally posted by timpnw View Post
          Arith2
          Senior Member
          Arith2 Wow. I can't believe after all these years I've neither heard of the word 'jounce' nor of a "jounce and rebound" test. I've now watched 5 youtube videos on it... Thanks for the education. This is exactly what I was inquiring about.
          $35k and a technical degree to learn dumb crap like that 😂

          I'll gladly spread as much of that knowledge as I can. Warped Perception is a youtube channel that has some awesome videos to help you visualize the theories also.
          Here's a list of cool channels. I don't think all are still active but most should be.

          KYLE.ENGINEERS
          Warped Perception
          Engineering Explained
          driving 4 answers(very informative on history also)
          Julian Edgar
          GraysGarage(pretty sure inactive but still good info)

          If you like rockets, Everday Astronaut is probably the best, and most understandable channel for that. He doesn't do cars but they are still giant engines which might peak your interest.
          This is my Unbuild Journal and why we need an oil thread
          https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...nbuild-journal

          "Do it right once or do it twice"

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            #20
            Alrighty. I'm ready to tackle FCABs and RTABs. The only thing the jounce and rebound test revealed was a very loud squeak from the driver's rear... that was louder pushing down and quieter on recoils. I'm assuming it's the strut but could be the spring... no rust on the car so I don't know why the spring would squeak like that. Ideas? Am I on the right track?

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              #21
              Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post
              Just change everything and be done with it. No telling how the POs drove the car.

              The peace of mind is worth it and you can only regret not doing something.
              ^^^
              This is it really.
              Do it all now.

              Prices are shooting up.
              Availability of factory and 3rd party replacements is spotty.
              Quite a few Factory-only parts that are almost vital to keep the car running are NLA.

              Before I acquired this car, I would attempt to diagnose instead of throwing parts at it.
              It seems like one should not procrastinate with the replacement of wearables that are now getting scarce or are of sub quality.

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                #22
                Originally posted by FBloggs View Post

                ^^^
                This is it really.
                Do it all now.

                Prices are shooting up.
                Availability of factory and 3rd party replacements is spotty.
                Quite a few Factory-only parts that are almost vital to keep the car running are NLA.

                Before I acquired this car, I would attempt to diagnose instead of throwing parts at it.
                It seems like one should not procrastinate with the replacement of wearables that are now getting scarce or are of sub quality.
                Great, which factory only parts are we talking about?
                2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY BREMBO ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER SACHS RECARO SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by jet_dogg View Post

                  Great, which factory only parts are we talking about?
                  For me...clutch module.
                  It's nla.
                  The solutions are to buy the older switches and sub harness to convert.
                  Or buy a euro switch and recode.

                  I also own an E30 M3 and there are a lot of wearable parts that are nla.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by FBloggs View Post

                    For me...clutch module.
                    It's nla.
                    The solutions are to buy the older switches and sub harness to convert.
                    Or buy a euro switch and recode.

                    I also own an E30 M3 and there are a lot of wearable parts that are nla.
                    Pff, I know that feels bro.

                    I bought a new alternator just to have as backup since I thought they were going nla. I'm going to have to pick up some pillars, rear parcel, a spare center console and some other bolshit soon just in case.
                    2003.5 MT JB/B - CSL SCHRICK SUPERSPRINT EISENMANN JRZ SWIFT MILLWAY BREMBO ENDLESS BBS/SSR DREXLER SACHS RECARO SLON MKRS GSP DMG KARBONIUS CP AUTOSOLUTIONS KOYO

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by timpnw View Post
                      I'm assuming it's the strut but could be the spring... no rust on the car so I don't know why the spring would squeak like that.
                      Spring movement should make no noise, unless there is a gecko in between the spring coils.

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                        #26
                        Turns out there was a wheel spacer installed by PO, I missed in there causing the squeak. The springs are good. RTABs installed. Took way longer than I thought, however, the second side took half the time. Existing RTABs had no visual degradation. The rear alignment was jacked up with uneven wear on previous tires, so no regrets about changing them out.

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