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MAP sensor wiring help PLEASE!

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  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Also has anyone confirmed the voltage discrepancy between the ecuworx doc and what others are posting here? I have confirmed my wiring is correct but I only get 4v at ACC where ecuworx claims it should be 5v. My friend's car gets the exact numbers but he has a gm map sensor. Looks like the bosch sensor only outputs 4.xx V from what I saw on m3cutters and another csl guide? My car seems to drive fine but after this thread I want everything 100% lol

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    If you use the Turner IAT and use pin 16 for map ground the only wire you will tap into will be pin 7 for MAP power. This assumes you are NOT running the flap which you won't be. So don't sweat it man, use a T-tap or better yet solder it in.
    This is what I did. IAT was done with the turner harness and I removed the extra pins so the only two being used are from the IAT sensor and those convert into the maf connector using only the respective dme pins. Basically a direct connection to the dme but without having to hack the maf harness for easy reversion.

    FYI the wires should be black and red only. I had to hack a spare terminal because one of them broke upon removal if you're trying replicate this based on color.

    Initial Turner harness

    Click image for larger version

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    Unnecessary terminals removed:

    Click image for larger version

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    Also removed:

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    Done: (Should be red and black only. FYI: I broke the black terminal and had to crimp on the yellow connector if anyone needs this for reference)

    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files
    Last edited by thegenius46m; 06-09-2020, 09:31 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    If you use the Turner IAT and use pin 16 for map ground the only wire you will tap into will be pin 7 for MAP power. This assumes you are NOT running the flap which you won't be. So don't sweat it man, use a T-tap or better yet solder it in.

    Leave a comment:


  • ATB88
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post

    You won't be able to wire all of this in without making changes to the factory wiring unless you get your hands on a CSL engine harness. However, if you buy the Turner IAT relocation harness (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...iABEgIbrfD_BwE), you can cut and splice your new sensors into that. You're still going to need to move some pins around on the ECU connector however.

    The reason NZ_M3 used that turquoise connector is because he owns a CSL and was interfacing with the CSL harness (turquoise connector is female counterpart to the CSL MAP harness connector). Your harness will not have a connector for a MAP sensor. Since you're going to have to create your own wiring for the MAP sensor, you won't need this connector.
    Ahh got it! It's all making sense now -- Cubieman mentioned he was doing it without splicing into the factory wiring, and he had the Turner IAT relocation kit, which I'm also getting. It's all coming together now, hoping to install on tuesday if all the parts get here on time!

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by ATB88 View Post
    I'm trying to make sense of exactly what parts I need to cleanly wire the MAP sensor in (I am aiming to do this without making any changes to the factory wiring harness, so no soldering or tapping). Following NZ_M3's thread on cslregister he says:

    Click image for larger version Name:	Screen Shot 2020-05-28 at 1.09.03 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	879.8 KB ID:	29278

    The first p/n he gives seems to just be the head of the wiring shown (that plugs onto the MAP sensor itself). As for the second p/n, I can't seem to find a good photo of the actual part, is it the rest of what's shown (with the turquoise connector end)? If so, what's the part number for the piece that the turquoise connector end would plug into, which goes all the way to the DME pins? Seen in this photo connecting into the turquoise end: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...37c74904_c.jpg

    Am I confused about how this works? TIA!
    You won't be able to wire all of this in without making changes to the factory wiring unless you get your hands on a CSL engine harness. However, if you buy the Turner IAT relocation harness (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...iABEgIbrfD_BwE), you can cut and splice your new sensors into that. You're still going to need to move some pins around on the ECU connector however.

    The reason NZ_M3 used that turquoise connector is because he owns a CSL and was interfacing with the CSL harness (turquoise connector is female counterpart to the CSL MAP harness connector). Your harness will not have a connector for a MAP sensor. Since you're going to have to create your own wiring for the MAP sensor, you won't need this connector.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by Ramps View Post

    I think what we are seeing is the vacuum pulses for the cylinder that the kassel adapter is installed over, the entire rail shares air but being right above a cylinder at idle would read just that one stronger than the rest right? When it’s on the booster hose or a factory rail you see much smaller pulses because it’s reading all six cylinders evenly. As soon as the throttle is opened it wouldn’t matter anymore. Or are people thinking it’s more of EM interference from the injectors? I don’t know that it matters as long as the car runs well.
    That's what I was thinking too and is why I ran that last test trying to keep the engine at a set rpm. The readings seem to smooth out during rpm changes and oscillate at constant rpm. Not sure how this behaves at higher rpm/load, but it's clear that having the sensor positioned so close to a throttle body is interfering with the reading.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ramps
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    Just adding some of my data that I just took. I've got the Kassel adapter and sensor and I've routed my wiring underneath the airbox. Data recorded after driving the car for ~30 min with refresh rate set to 10 Hz. Car feels completely normal and all the power is there.

    Engine off:
    Click image for larger version Name:	Engine Off.png Views:	0 Size:	56.2 KB ID:	29011

    Warm start:
    Click image for larger version Name:	Warm Start.png Views:	0 Size:	123.6 KB ID:	29012

    Two ~3.5k rpm blips followed by slower rise from idle to ~2.5k rpm:
    Click image for larger version Name:	Two 3K Blips, one longer acceleration.png Views:	0 Size:	128.1 KB ID:	29013

    Trying to keep steady at 2.5k rpm (probably fluctuated between 2.2k rpm and 2.8k rpm):
    Click image for larger version Name:	Steady at 2.5K.png Views:	0 Size:	118.2 KB ID:	29014
    I think what we are seeing is the vacuum pulses for the cylinder that the kassel adapter is installed over, the entire rail shares air but being right above a cylinder at idle would read just that one stronger than the rest right? When it’s on the booster hose or a factory rail you see much smaller pulses because it’s reading all six cylinders evenly. As soon as the throttle is opened it wouldn’t matter anymore. Or are people thinking it’s more of EM interference from the injectors? I don’t know that it matters as long as the car runs well.

    Leave a comment:


  • ATB88
    replied
    I'm trying to make sense of exactly what parts I need to cleanly wire the MAP sensor in (I am aiming to do this without making any changes to the factory wiring harness, so no soldering or tapping). Following NZ_M3's thread on cslregister he says:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Screen Shot 2020-05-28 at 1.09.03 PM.png Views:	0 Size:	879.8 KB ID:	29278

    The first p/n he gives seems to just be the head of the wiring shown (that plugs onto the MAP sensor itself). As for the second p/n, I can't seem to find a good photo of the actual part, is it the rest of what's shown (with the turquoise connector end)? If so, what's the part number for the piece that the turquoise connector end would plug into, which goes all the way to the DME pins? Seen in this photo connecting into the turquoise end: https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...37c74904_c.jpg

    Am I confused about how this works? TIA!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by ATB88; 05-28-2020, 12:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Just adding some of my data that I just took. I've got the Kassel adapter and sensor and I've routed my wiring underneath the airbox. Data recorded after driving the car for ~30 min with refresh rate set to 10 Hz. Car feels completely normal and all the power is there.

    Engine off:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Engine Off.png Views:	0 Size:	56.2 KB ID:	29011

    Warm start:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Warm Start.png Views:	0 Size:	123.6 KB ID:	29012

    Two ~3.5k rpm blips followed by slower rise from idle to ~2.5k rpm:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Two 3K Blips, one longer acceleration.png Views:	0 Size:	128.1 KB ID:	29013

    Trying to keep steady at 2.5k rpm (probably fluctuated between 2.2k rpm and 2.8k rpm):
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Steady at 2.5K.png Views:	0 Size:	118.2 KB ID:	29014

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

    Agreed that it sounds like an easy response for them to cover themselves. I also sent an email to Kassel, but no response yet. My email was very detailed so I hope they dont blow me off.
    Yeah I prefer data to an opinion.

    Leave a comment:


  • duracellttu
    replied
    Originally posted by thegenius46m View Post

    Sounds like an easy reply to cover his end. I have a wideband in my car and can test before and after but I can't say how accurate it'll be since I don't drive the car enough anymore for long-term testing haha.
    Agreed that it sounds like an easy response for them to cover themselves. I also sent an email to Kassel, but no response yet. My email was very detailed so I hope they dont blow me off.

    Leave a comment:


  • thegenius46m
    replied
    Originally posted by duracellttu View Post

    Hmmm...do we agree with this assessment? I would assume the ECU would use a running average with a specific high enough sample rate for the necessary resolution. This would help eliminate effects of ripples in the data. Still, I'm not sure it's a good thing.
    Sounds like an easy reply to cover his end. I have a wideband in my car and can test before and after but I can't say how accurate it'll be since I don't drive the car enough anymore for long-term testing haha.

    Leave a comment:


  • duracellttu
    replied
    Originally posted by Cubieman View Post
    From Kassel:


    "As for oscillations, we also notice a slight oscillation at idle on
    the MAP that is diminished under load . Many hours of exhaustive dyno
    and street testing comparing both genuine CSL rail mounted sensors to
    the Kassel sensor were performed before releasing this product 2 years
    ago. Our findings were that fuel trims and AFR's were identical under
    both cruising and full load operating conditions on all of the
    vehicles we tested. Long term testing has concluded the same when
    comparing data over several months of running each setup on the same
    cars...."
    Hmmm...do we agree with this assessment? I would assume the ECU would use a running average with a specific high enough sample rate for the necessary resolution. This would help eliminate effects of ripples in the data. Still, I'm not sure it's a good thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    From Kassel:


    "As for oscillations, we also notice a slight oscillation at idle on
    the MAP that is diminished under load . Many hours of exhaustive dyno
    and street testing comparing both genuine CSL rail mounted sensors to
    the Kassel sensor were performed before releasing this product 2 years
    ago. Our findings were that fuel trims and AFR's were identical under
    both cruising and full load operating conditions on all of the
    vehicles we tested. Long term testing has concluded the same when
    comparing data over several months of running each setup on the same
    cars...."

    Leave a comment:


  • Cubieman
    replied
    I am interested as well if my wiring setup will have to be changed to run the flap. I'll find out soon now that I finally have all the correct connections etc. I'll report back if/when I find out anything.

    Leave a comment:

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