Whiteline front adjustable endlinks

[r4dr]

Does anyone have experience with running these? I'm looking at the shorter version, KLC140-235, to go with MCS dampers.

I'm also open to other suggestions for adjustable links in a similar length range with sealed ends...

[SG/IRM3]

I've been running them for over a year with MCS 2WNR suspension with no issues. Very high quality and easy to adjust for no preload. Don't recall the part number but got them from Vorshlag where I got the suspension a few years ago. Much better than the Bimmerworld units which were noisy from the start.

[r4dr]

I've been running them for over a year with MCS 2WNR suspension with no issues. Very high quality and easy to adjust for no preload. Don't recall the part number but got them from Vorshlag where I got the suspension a few years ago. Much better than the Bimmerworld units which were noisy from the start.

Awesome, that's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!

[Tbonem3]

I think I put details in my journal. I run them with MCS.

Here's what I bought based on measurements:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ignore the incorrect stock photo. They've been wonderful, and no noise.

I remember seeing them on Vorshalg's site when I was buying camber plates, but I went with that amazon link for a particular reason. I just can't remember if it was purely because of price or if I had concluded that the length range was better.

[Wernd]

Thanks for the posts guys. Ever since I installed my MCS suspension this spring I've battled endlinks that were too long. Only recently have they started to make noise so I was looking for a solution. This hopefully is my solution

[lvm3sm46]

I bought these from germany, very well made for less money

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282928609841

[r4dr]

Thanks, guys. I meant to double check the measurements but I forgot and they had shipped already. Hope they work.

[r4dr]

To bring this full circle, I've got an update after trying to run these for a while. I'm not very happy with them. For starters, they ditch the stock-style rod ends (which have flats on the ball joint side to allow an easy counter-hold) for an integrated 5mm hex. Torquing these to spec can be a pain if your ball joint starts spinning. The reason why this became an issue is...

I've been trying to find a clunk in my new MCS setup. To the point where I took everything out, disassembled the Turner street plates, and tightened everything back up. Finally, I narrowed it down to the Whiteline links. I should have figured this out sooner, since I didn't have the clunk while I was driving around with no end links -- the clunk only started with the Whiteline links.

The issue is, the threads in the aluminum rods have play relative to the threads on the steel(?) rod ends. I'm not sure if I got a bad unit to start, or if it developed along the way. The issue is, with aluminum threads vs steel threads, any amount of play is going to get worse and worse as the steel is much harder than the aluminum.

I managed to preload one side slightly and this tension got rid of the play. However, the other side is still making a slight noise. I can jiggle it around and recreate the noise while the car is on a 4-post lift and loaded. I'm going to try really reefing on the jam nuts to see if that helps, but I'm not too impressed with these Whiteline end links right now. I can't dial 100% of the preload out on both sides without having play.

Also -- to follow up with the length issue, the Vorshlag part # is too long for ~13.5" front ride height. I have them on their shortest setting and they're still a bit too long.

[bigjae46]

The Bimmerworld end links have been pretty good and you can get replacement end links from McMaster Carr for less than $10 the last time I checked. Although not ideal for street use because the ends don’t have dust boots.

Is the suspension loaded when tightening the links? Snug up the lower nuts. I lower the front end with jack stands under the outer ball joint. Then adjust the length and snug up both lower nuts.

if you snug it up with the suspension at droop, the ends will want to rotate. So the nut comes loose or it binds and clunks.

[r4dr]

Yeah, I tightened the jam nuts while the car was on a 4-post lift, so it should be fully loaded.

[Tbonem3]

if you snug it up with the suspension at droop, the ends will want to rotate. So the nut comes loose or it binds and clunks.

What's wrong with a ball joint (heim) rotating?

It's not a rubber bushing that will twist like factory rear shock ends or rtabs.

[mrgizmo04]

I'm very happy with GC ones. Huge range of adjustment.

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[bigjae46]

What's wrong with a ball joint (heim) rotating?

It's not a rubber bushing that will twist like factory rear shock ends or rtabs.

The OEM link is a ball joint at the end. It makes sense the ball joint will rotate if you tighten the nuts and then put the suspension under load. And I get a clunk noise almost every time I do that, at least on my E90 which has dinan springs and sway bar.

I have the Bimmerworld sway bar links on my E46. The lower end failed - the threads stripped. I swapped in some teflon coated spherical ends so I can just tighten the end links without loading up the suspension. It is possible they are making noise but my exhaust and car is so loud there's no way I can hear it.

[eacmen]

I'm very happy with GC ones. Huge range of adjustment.

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Same here.


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