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Tranny Input Shaft Seal - Genuine BMW or Corteco?

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    Tranny Input Shaft Seal - Genuine BMW or Corteco?

    I have my tranny out and need to replace the input shaft seal and am wondering if this is one of those seals where genuine BMW is recommended or is Corteco an acceptable alternative? Thanks...

    #2
    Originally posted by BMWE46M3 View Post
    I have my tranny out and need to replace the input shaft seal and am wondering if this is one of those seals where genuine BMW is recommended or is Corteco an acceptable alternative? Thanks...
    All hard to get to seals and gaskets I always choose genuine bmw.


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      #3
      Corteco is fine in this case. It's the pilot bearing that you want OE and the throw out you want OE or at least Sachs instead of LUK.

      Corteco is factory for a number of important parts on our car.
      DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
      /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
      More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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        #4
        As Tbone mentioned confirm the new throw out bearing as I believe the LUX is the wrong height.

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          #5
          Thanks guys…

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            #6
            Hi, Anyone got a DIY on this ?

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              #7
              Remove the old seal with Special seal puller or use wood screw to extract it. Before you pull it, measure and note down how deep you need to install it.

              for install/correct seating you need a special tool or make you one with something like a pipe.
              If you or a friend have a 3d printer, life gets easy just print the tool your self. I always print these kind of tools, just for this worth to have a printer.
              …under construction.

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                #8
                I just DIYed this a few days ago. The replacement Corteco seal actually had a spring inside it whereas the original one didn’t. Nonetheless it seemed like a good replacement. A few notes:
                • If you use the wood screw extraction method, don’t drill too deep as there is a plastic clip right behind the seal you don’t want to damage.
                • My measured install depth was 2.5mm
                • A short segment of 1 1/2” sch40 PVC pipe works perfectly for tapping it in

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by uberchris View Post
                  The replacement Corteco seal actually had a spring inside it whereas the original one didn’t.
                  Seal with a spring inside is rubber, while the one without spring is Teflon which is better. I'm surprised that Corteco seal in this case is not Teflon, as I just replace a 325i AUTO transmission torque convert seal and it's Teflon, so for the higher rpm M3 I would expect it's Teflon too.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by sapote View Post

                    Seal with a spring inside is rubber, while the one without spring is Teflon which is better. I'm surprised that Corteco seal in this case is not Teflon, as I just replace a 325i AUTO transmission torque convert seal and it's Teflon, so for the higher rpm M3 I would expect it's Teflon too.
                    Yeah that's what I thought too. However pictures online for both BMW 23121228493 and Corteco 19036711B show it with a spring.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by S54B32 View Post
                      Remove the old seal with Special seal puller or use wood screw to extract it. Before you pull it, measure and note down how deep you need to install it.

                      for install/correct seating you need a special tool or make you one with something like a pipe.
                      If you or a friend have a 3d printer, life gets easy just print the tool your self. I always print these kind of tools, just for this worth to have a printer.
                      I've got a printer, but where are you getting these files for print


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        #12
                        Found DIY on the seal replacement

                        Refreshing parts on a used 52k mile transmission I purchased that will replace the failing one in my car. It's making whining noises only on acceleration (s...



                        is this what a front seal leak looks like ?

                        i looked inside the holes with a borescope and the flywheel looks dry


                        Attached Files

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                          #13
                          I removed the filler plug today and no oil flowed out after changing the LT2 a month ago ( 1.7 Litres . I managed to get another 250 ML in,so i am quite certain it's the front seal now, Just looking at the TIS on smg removal , does anyone skip the intake manifold off step? Anyone got a list of parts needed, common breakages
                          Also what time frame should i aim at?. Looking at parts to replace once out before hand to save down time
                          Last edited by BL92; Today, 12:28 PM.

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                            #14
                            It calls for 1.8L not 1.7 iirc, fyi.

                            Yes remove the manifold - don't you need to get to the starter? At least the torx heads, though you go from below too ofc.
                            DD: /// 2011.5 Jerez/bamboo E90 M3 · DCT · Slicktop · Instagram
                            /// 2004 Silvergrey M3 · Coupe · 6spd · Slicktop · zero options
                            More info: https://nam3forum.com/forums/forum/m...os-supersprint

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