Time for a cooling system refresh - OEM radiator still the way to go?

[Rich022]

INA is a good brand for pulley's and tensioner. I have currently on my M3. Shouldn't worry about them.

eacman is right- for the CSF radiator to work properly (i went thru this myself) it requires higher airflow or more negative pressure in your engine bay (ie hood vents or something) to pull the air thru that radiator.
I"ve Been running a Nissens for almost a year now. paid 285$ from FCP. Now $434-uff.

Anyone have negative issues with Nissens vs. BMW poor cooling etc. ?

[LSBNick]

This is all very interesting as I’ve only read/seen good things about CSF as a whole. I’ve had one on my car for almost a year now with absolutely no issues. Car hasn’t seen a track day, but does see spirited driving on street and plenty of mountain runs which can last a few hours. Coolant temp always stays dead center, not once creeping past it.

[LSBNick]

Should also note that oil temps stay between the 190-210 range, which from my understanding is normal anyway.

[Cronenberged]

Should also note that oil temps stay between the 190-210 range, which from my understanding is normal anyway.

I was a fan of CSF till it just started leaking at a weld at 10k miles of street use. I asked several people who got it for track use only and they all switched to either Mishimoto or PWR because the CSF and quote "sudden stopped cooling and theirs cars were over heating".

Rich002 might be right that there needs to be more negative pressure, hood vents and such. I did everything he's saying, but I'm seeing far more of them fail, or fail after a while even with no track use.

[Nate047]

Does anyone have a parts department connect who can find out when the OEM radiator will be available again?

[Tbonem3]

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...102228941.html

https://parts.bmwmonterey.com/p/bmw_...102228941.html

https://www.bmwdirectparts.com/oem-p...10-17115a7def2

https://www.bmwautopartswholesale.com/oem-parts/bmw-radiator-h17110-17115a7def2

[D-O]

Does anyone have a parts department connect who can find out when the OEM radiator will be available again?

My guy says current ETA is middle of November.

[Nate047]

That's not too bad. Tbone thanks for the links, I'm hoping to get one from FCP so I can have lifetime returns.

[Tbonem3]

That's not too bad. Tbone thanks for the links, I'm hoping to get one from FCP so I can have lifetime returns.

You're gonna put 150k on the radiator?

[c watson]

Doesn’t BMW parts have a locator? I believe they can see which dealership has a radiator.

[CrookedCommie]

Any update on availability of the OE radiator?

[mrgizmo04]

1. E46 did have a problem with cracking radiators, but only non-m, because they have more plastics and their expansion tank is attached to the radiator on the driver side.

2. Nothing is "better" than actually maintaining your radiator. Better done if off car - blow it out (using air or water) once in a while to get the rocks/bugs/feathers/dirt off (in direction opposite to airflow) to restore cooling efficiency. If your fins are bent, unbend them with a jeweler's screwdriver, or there are actually "comb" kits available. The radiator needs air flowing through it to exchange heat. Same as above applies to oil coolers, blow them out.

3. More importantly for why you might be having cooling issues and looking to replace the radiator, is not the radiator, but the AC condenser. AC condenser sits in front of the radiator and if its veins are blocked with crap, your radiator is not getting proper airflow. So first I'd be looking at the condition of the condenser, not the radiator. Similarly blow it out, unbend the fins. At some point you might have caught a big enough rock in it that smashes enough fins to warrant a replacement instead. Bigger job since you need to refill the refrigerant, harder to get to/off the car, but bigger bang for the buck in terms of keeping your oil temps low. So AC condenser should be part of cooling system refresh.

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[bigjae46]

I have a CSF on a track car, no issues and it cools quite well even when I beat on it pretty hard. I've also coded out some fault codes related to the AC and temp sensor in the lower hose, deleted the heater core loop, deleted all fans, and relocated the expansion tank to the drug bin so not sure if that all helps with odd coolant readings.

With that said, the CSF really doesn't offer much of a benefit over the OE radiator if any. No reason to with anything other than BMW or Modine.

[Obioban]

I have a CSF on a track car, no issues and it cools quite well even when I beat on it pretty hard. I've also coded out some fault codes related to the AC and temp sensor in the lower hose, deleted the heater core loop, deleted all fans, and relocated the expansion tank to the drug bin so not sure if that all helps with odd coolant readings.

With that said, the CSF really doesn't offer much of a benefit over the OE radiator if any. No reason to with anything other than BMW or Modine.

I'm surprised you're running that, as the most weight obsessed person I know of. Extra weight, at the worst possible point, with no benefit in exchange...

[bigjae46]

I'm surprised you're running that, as the most weight obsessed person I know of. Extra weight, at the worst possible point, with no benefit in exchange...

Lol...you're absolutely right!

I've been re-thinking my radiator/oil cooler setup. I'm exploring ways to improve airflow through the coolers, primarily behind the radiator. So far, I'm confident that I can go with a lower capacity radiator and a larger single oil cooler and achieve similar water temps and better oil temps. The problem is ducting air flow out through the hood. If I can push the radiator forward a couple of inches then I'd have enough room.

Not sure if it's worth the effort. Probably will just throw in an OE radiator in with a large oil cooler attached in place of the AC condenser.