Timing engine

[mrgizmo04]

The splines are suppose to stick out 4ish mm when tightened down

This is definitely not the way to do it .

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[tlow98]

This is definitely not the way to do it .

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do you work for pizza, beer, or contributions to your track tire addiction?

catch me on some shady pay app that you’ve never heard of.

-kelly

[mrgizmo04]

do you work for pizza, beer, or contributions to your track tire addiction?

catch me on some shady pay app that you’ve never heard of.

-kelly

I usually use my neighbor's Apple stopwatch for timing, I never heard of 4mm tricks.

And you have to have the exact parts I'm looking for, or know a guy with a gmail account.

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[x Spades x]

Hey Fellas,

Work got crazy, so I need to put this on hold... but now I'm back abd trying to get this done by next weekend.

I've posted pics on current status and im trying to install the vanos and turn the engine without losing the cam timing (as in holes no longer match up with the bridge.

Below details where i am:

1) Timed both cams to match up with bridge perfectly.
2) Turned each hub farthest CW and inserted both splines in each respective "Sweet spot". 2mm of teeth showing.
3) Put two bolts in each hub (opposite of each other), loosely (not finger tight)
4) Bottom end at TDC with pin in

What are my next steps to installing Vanos, while keeping the timing after rotating the engine?

Kareem

[eacmen]

Hey Fellas,

Work got crazy, so I need to put this on hold... but now I'm back abd trying to get this done by next weekend.

I've posted pics on current status and im trying to install the vanos and turn the engine without losing the cam timing (as in holes no longer match up with the bridge.

Below details where i am:

1) Timed both cams to match up with bridge perfectly.
2) Turned each hub farthest CW and inserted both splines in each respective "Sweet spot". 2mm of teeth showing.
3) Put two bolts in each hub (opposite of each other), loosely (not finger tight)
4) Bottom end at TDC with pin in

What are my next steps to installing Vanos, while keeping the timing after rotating the engine?

Kareem

https://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/s54_vanos_rattle_procedure.htm

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[mrgizmo04]

READ the Beisan procedure SEVERAL times. You might need to pull an all-nighter as that adds work toward your "next weekend" goal, but splines protruding 2mm or 4mm or whatever mm is NOT the right way of doing it. You need to ensure the splines are pulled forward as far as possible so that pistons butt up against the end caps on the vanos unit, as that defines the full retarded position (reason why you have to turn the cams ccw with a 24mm). Everything needs to be in fully retarded position, not just hole in crank pulley and holes in cams lining up with pins, all the other parts of vanos need to be in fully retarded position.

So your next step is to take out the splines from the hub, attach the spline spindles to the piston ends with 7mm/10mm...pic below is what your next step is supposed to look like.


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[x Spades x]

READ the Beisan procedure SEVERAL times. You might need to pull an all-nighter as that adds work toward your "next weekend" goal, but splines protruding 2mm or 4mm or whatever mm is NOT the right way of doing it. You need to ensure the splines are pulled forward as far as possible so that pistons butt up against the end caps on the vanos unit, as that defines the full retarded position (reason why you have to turn the cams ccw with a 24mm). Everything needs to be in fully retarded position, not just hole in crank pulley and holes in cams lining up with pins, all the other parts of vanos need to be in fully retarded position.

So your next step is to take out the splines from the hub, attach the spline spindles to the piston ends with 7mm/10mm...pic below is what your next step is supposed to look like.


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Thanks for the input. I did it this way before, with the same off timing after 1 rotation of the motor. If seen it done both ways (on YouTube too), so its kinda frustrating.

I'll do it this way again.

[sapote]

1) Timed both cams to match up with bridge perfectly.
2) Turned each hub farthest CW and inserted both splines in each respective "Sweet spot". 2mm of teeth showing.
3) Put two bolts in each hub (opposite of each other), loosely (not finger tight)
4) Bottom end at TDC with pin in

What are my next steps to installing Vanos, while keeping the timing after rotating the engine?

Great so far. I also don't like to have the splined shafts connected to the vanos at this point as in Beisan instruction, but insert them in the hubs.
Next step:
5. pull the splined shaft further out, about 70% protruded out of the hubs, then tighten the 2 hub bolts to spec (14Nm I think but double check) then back out 1/4 turns. Install the remaining hub bolts loose. Do this for both hubs.
6. Install the vanos on the head using the 2 longest bolts, with gasket, but do not tighten down the bolts yet. Reach in and screw the piston shaft to the splined shaft, snug.
7. Evenly tighten down the 2 vanos bolts to pull the vanos in slowly to avoid cockeye and jam it; make sure the EX hub tabs are aligned to the pump disk holes. Continue to tighten down the vanos using the correct bolts until it bottomed on the head. Torque all bolts to spec.
8. Reach in and tighten all the hub bolts you can reach, tight (but they will be torqued to spec later).
9. Remove the vanos again (disconnect the pistons from splined shafts). Now using a torque wrench to torque all hub bolts to spec. This set the vanos timing.
10. Install the vanos and connect piston shafts to splined shaft hand tighten to snug. torque to spec.

Turn the crank 4 turns and check the timing. If good, then install the solenoid plate.

At (4):4) Bottom end at TDC with pin in
instead, I would set the crank at about 2mm before TDC instead of at TDC. This is to compensate for the chain not acting like a solid rod.

[Slideways]

READ the Beisan procedure SEVERAL times. You might need to pull an all-nighter as that adds work toward your "next weekend" goal, but splines protruding 2mm or 4mm or whatever mm is NOT the right way of doing it. You need to ensure the splines are pulled forward as far as possible so that pistons butt up against the end caps on the vanos unit, as that defines the full retarded position (reason why you have to turn the cams ccw with a 24mm). Everything needs to be in fully retarded position, not just hole in crank pulley and holes in cams lining up with pins, all the other parts of vanos need to be in fully retarded position.

So your next step is to take out the splines from the hub, attach the spline spindles to the piston ends with 7mm/10mm...pic below is what your next step is supposed to look like.


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If one of the cams is off by a tiny amount after lightly tightening down the hubs, can't you nudge the cam back with the wrench to get the pin to line up similar to when you disassemble the VANOS? Granted, one of the VANOS pistons will be off by a fraction of MM, but the ECU should be able to adjust for that on startup. Even if the bridge is slightly off (TIS gives a certain measurement IIRC), the DME should be able to correct that as well.

[mrgizmo04]

Sapote's variation with extra removal is to get the torque wrench on the hub bolts, which usually snug there is enough.

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[mrgizmo04]

If one of the cams is off by a tiny amount after lightly tightening down the hubs, can't you nudge the cam back with the wrench to get the pin to line up similar to when you disassemble the VANOS? Granted, one of the VANOS pistons will be off by a fraction of MM, but the ECU should be able to adjust for that on startup. Even if the bridge is slightly off (TIS gives a certain measurement IIRC), the DME should be able to correct that as well.

Yes there is inevitably wear and slack between chain/sprocket, hub/spline, some chain stretch, so you might have to make small adjustments.

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[eacmen]

If one of the cams is off by a tiny amount after lightly tightening down the hubs, can't you nudge the cam back with the wrench to get the pin to line up similar to when you disassemble the VANOS? Granted, one of the VANOS pistons will be off by a fraction of MM, but the ECU should be able to adjust for that on startup. Even if the bridge is slightly off (TIS gives a certain measurement IIRC), the DME should be able to correct that as well.

this


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