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I haven't read Bimmerfan08s DIY but all in all its not a crazy difficult job. The torque sequence is a massive pain in the ass though, especially for later year cars where its 105 degrees instead of 70. And keep the oil pan center cover off the oil pan when reinstalling or you'll never get it on. Completely dropping the front subframe will also make this job so much easier. If you dont drop the whole subframe, and opt to just let it hang, remove the FCAB bolts on both sides so you can swing the subframe front to back when you need to. Just take your time, and take the torque sequence very seriously.
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^^+1 by the videos and threads I’ve seen it looks like is not that difficult. I haven’t done it yet but looks like the hardest thing is to remove the steering rack and the torque sequence. I will be buying the engine support bar from harbor freight (believe is around $70) Like others mentioned if you DIY get a torque wrench that measure degrees.
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maybe a 3. just read bimmerfan08s diy once or twice. check what you want to replace while in there. order parts . read step 51. i choosed the same method as mdavidm3. after this it's a 2-3 day work if you are working slow like me.
most annoying part was the torque sequence because i have the newer bolts. and i went with ACL bearings and oem bolts.
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OE clearances, straight swap and go. I made sure to ask haha. Thats for the S54, I cant say for certain on other engines. Although I'd imagine its the same.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Do these have same clearances as OE? I've never looked into his engine builds, but just make sure he doesn't run these at higher clearance with modifications to the oil pump/pressure or do any sort of dry sump conversions with different oil pump drive gear to up the oil pressure on his builds, which doesn't apply to the diy of just replacing your bearings.
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Do these have same clearances as OE? I've never looked into his engine builds, but just make sure he doesn't run these at higher clearance with modifications to the oil pump/pressure or do any sort of dry sump conversions with different oil pump drive gear to up the oil pressure on his builds, which doesn't apply to the diy of just replacing your bearings.Originally posted by Desert_M3 View PostWhenever someone messages me wanting their rod bearings done, I always suggest ACL. As others have said, Lang Racing uses them in all his engine builds. Why overpay for bearings when ACL will last just as long as OE bearings?
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OEM if you have a later build date, reuse if you have an earlier build date. Get a digital torque wrench that also reads angle. It makes it so much easier.Originally posted by lunardds View PostThinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
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Mine is an 02 so I was able to reuse my bolts.Originally posted by lunardds View PostThinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
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I have an 06 so will be doing OEM bolts (bought them from fcp incase I ever do them again)Originally posted by lunardds View PostThinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
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Thinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
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Whenever someone messages me wanting their rod bearings done, I always suggest ACL. As others have said, Lang Racing uses them in all his engine builds. Why overpay for bearings when ACL will last just as long as OE bearings?
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Lol true. No known issues.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
How do you know? 😜
Will update post if engine explodes.
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I also bought ACL bearings from Lang Racing. I've had them on for 8k miles and no issues whatsoever.
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