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  • Desert_M3
    replied
    I haven't read Bimmerfan08s DIY but all in all its not a crazy difficult job. The torque sequence is a massive pain in the ass though, especially for later year cars where its 105 degrees instead of 70. And keep the oil pan center cover off the oil pan when reinstalling or you'll never get it on. Completely dropping the front subframe will also make this job so much easier. If you dont drop the whole subframe, and opt to just let it hang, remove the FCAB bolts on both sides so you can swing the subframe front to back when you need to. Just take your time, and take the torque sequence very seriously.

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  • COVID-19
    replied
    ^^+1 by the videos and threads I’ve seen it looks like is not that difficult. I haven’t done it yet but looks like the hardest thing is to remove the steering rack and the torque sequence. I will be buying the engine support bar from harbor freight (believe is around $70) Like others mentioned if you DIY get a torque wrench that measure degrees.

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  • Zekarus
    replied
    maybe a 3. just read bimmerfan08s diy once or twice. check what you want to replace while in there. order parts . read step 51. i choosed the same method as mdavidm3. after this it's a 2-3 day work if you are working slow like me. most annoying part was the torque sequence because i have the newer bolts. and i went with ACL bearings and oem bolts.

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  • trudriv3r
    replied
    On scale of 1-5 how difficult is this job for a okay DIY’er?

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  • Desert_M3
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    Do these have same clearances as OE? I've never looked into his engine builds, but just make sure he doesn't run these at higher clearance with modifications to the oil pump/pressure or do any sort of dry sump conversions with different oil pump drive gear to up the oil pressure on his builds, which doesn't apply to the diy of just replacing your bearings.
    OE clearances, straight swap and go. I made sure to ask haha. Thats for the S54, I cant say for certain on other engines. Although I'd imagine its the same.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by Desert_M3 View Post
    Whenever someone messages me wanting their rod bearings done, I always suggest ACL. As others have said, Lang Racing uses them in all his engine builds. Why overpay for bearings when ACL will last just as long as OE bearings?
    Do these have same clearances as OE? I've never looked into his engine builds, but just make sure he doesn't run these at higher clearance with modifications to the oil pump/pressure or do any sort of dry sump conversions with different oil pump drive gear to up the oil pressure on his builds, which doesn't apply to the diy of just replacing your bearings.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Regarding bolt reuse:
    Click image for larger version

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  • Desert_M3
    replied
    Originally posted by lunardds View Post
    Thinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
    OEM if you have a later build date, reuse if you have an earlier build date. Get a digital torque wrench that also reads angle. It makes it so much easier.

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by lunardds View Post
    Thinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
    Mine is an 02 so I was able to reuse my bolts.

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  • COVID-19
    replied
    Originally posted by lunardds View Post
    Thinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?
    I have an 06 so will be doing OEM bolts (bought them from fcp incase I ever do them again)

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  • lunardds
    replied
    Thinking about doing this since I have so much time to kill. You guys doing stock rod bolts with angle torque or getting the arp with the stretch guage?

    Leave a comment:


  • Desert_M3
    replied
    Whenever someone messages me wanting their rod bearings done, I always suggest ACL. As others have said, Lang Racing uses them in all his engine builds. Why overpay for bearings when ACL will last just as long as OE bearings?

    Leave a comment:


  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

    How do you know? 😜
    Lol true. No known issues.

    Will update post if engine explodes.

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  • mrgizmo04
    replied
    Originally posted by heinzboehmer View Post
    I also bought ACL bearings from Lang Racing. I've had them on for 8k miles and no issues whatsoever.
    How do you know? 😜

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  • heinzboehmer
    replied
    I also bought ACL bearings from Lang Racing. I've had them on for 8k miles and no issues whatsoever.

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