Originally posted by Icecream
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A longer 1/2" wrench requires less strength on your part to torque down the bolts, but the fact that's it's longer does make it more annoying. I had to sweep out the trajectory for each bolt beforehand to make sure I could do the angles in one sweep. Had to reposition myself a couple times to make sure I wouldn't hit anything. Oh and I have a prefacelift car with the simpler torque sequence, can only imagine how much more frustrating this would have been with the other torque sequence.Last edited by heinzboehmer; 05-06-2020, 07:38 PM.
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Makes access to the first set of shells a lot easier without having to rotate the engine to get the rod onto the exhaust side which will put you into a much tighter position.
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I removed mine. I can’t remember if there was enough space to get to the first set of bearings.Originally posted by Arith2 View PostFlr you guys doing it upside down on the ground, did you need to remove the oil pump? I did it while the engine was out but I know space it limited under the car. BMW has you removing the pump which is why I ask. I didn't touch the oil pump.
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Flr you guys doing it upside down on the ground, did you need to remove the oil pump? I did it while the engine was out but I know space it limited under the car. BMW has you removing the pump which is why I ask. I didn't touch the oil pump.
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Cool. Like I may have said before I’m really planning on this to be a fall project. Works well with my friend who’s a pretty good BMW tech and he said he has no problem flying in with all/some of his tools (I just asked). So even though I have a good 1/2” torque wrench w/o angle, we will likely end up using his snap-on tools since they’re a bit nicer than mine haha.
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^^thats the one I got from HF (the 1/2in though) Theres a coupon in there for 20% off. If u can’t find it I can send it to u. (It got extended through Jun 30)
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This is the one I used, https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...nch-64915.html, but like I said, I would spring for the 1\2" version. It is a good tool and worked very well and made it super easy to get a nice precise lockdown on the angles, I would not fiddle with an analog gauge if you are doing this on your back. Also lying on your back trying to torque the rod bearing bolts and the reinforcement plate when you are done is just to difficult with the smaller 3\8" wrench. I was so tired after the rod bearing job I didn't have the strength to torque that damn plate down until the next day lol (in my defense I just swapped a new motor in by myself but still...).Originally posted by Inizes View PostPerfect thanks. What’s the go-to for the angle sensor? Haven’t ever needed one so I am debating between a nice digital one or doing some kind of attachment. Haven’t really looked into compiling tools yet.
I also wish I sprang for the techangle instead shown here: https://shop.snapon.com/product/Tech...)/ATECH3FR300B
Yeah it is expensive but in the grand scheme of things the additional cost (over the course of M3 ownership) is nearly negligible if you can swing it.
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Perfect thanks. What’s the go-to for the angle sensor? Haven’t ever needed one so I am debating between a nice digital one or doing some kind of attachment. Haven’t really looked into compiling tools yet.
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Correct. All bearings are identical.Originally posted by Inizes View PostSorry for the triple post, ACL bearings don’t appear to have a rod/cap side like the OEM bearings do. Is this correct? I’m still a few months away but something that was on my mind as I am looking at it. I may reach out to Lang Racing if I don’t hear from anyone here.
also. Do yourself a favor and get a long 1/2" torque wrench. I had a shorter 3/8" and it sucked.
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Sorry for the triple post, ACL bearings don’t appear to have a rod/cap side like the OEM bearings do. Is this correct? I’m still a few months away but something that was on my mind as I am looking at it. I may reach out to Lang Racing if I don’t hear from anyone here.
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Also as a PSA - MAPerformance currently has ACL bearings for $105 shipped if you sign up your phone number for an additional 10% off. I signed up for the deal, will unsubscribe now that I have them. The bearings shipping directly from ACL themselves in Grand Rapids, MI, with both the packing slip and label back to their US Headquarters for those concerned about counterfeits.
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Alright I’ll throw that onto the list. Preventive maintenance isn’t sexy at all lol. Have my friends telling me to do 996 Brembos, wheels, and exhaust and I have to say no, I’m going to do rod bearings, bushing refresh, and replace power steering lolOriginally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post
Yeah and at least half of them are probably seaping/leaking.
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I spoke with Oceansize and confirmed that the part numbers Zach linked are correct for the crush washers. FCP Euro has them coded incorrectly and says the done fit. I may reach out to their customer service to correct it for future people.Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View PostCenter cover is easy to do later, if yours is not seeping/leaking, you don't have to do it now.
Crush washers for power steering hoses you need to replace.
You might as well replace the power steering hoses and get a new PS reservoir with a new filter (built in) since you'll be draining all the fluid now anyway and will need to drain it later if you need to replace a hose later.
I’ll take a look into that refresh. May as well do all of the hoses and clamps for PS since they’re all ~15 years old?
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Thought I'd post this here as well in case anyone was looking for this information.
Originally posted by Slideways View PostI'm not sure if someone wants to verify this before adding to the PDF, but I think I found the torque values for the oil pump send and pickup tubes. I remember bimmerfan08 broke one of the M5 bolts trying to torque it to an approx. value. After cross-referencing the two bolts, I saw that these bolts are also used on the E36 and other E46 models.
According to the TIS for the E36 and E46, the M5x16 (number 6, pn 07129903041) is 5NM and the M6x16 (number 11, pn 07119904524) is 10NM.
S54 oil pump is on page 49.
The TIS seems to also state to wash and oil the replacement M10 rod bolts before installing.
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