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    DME ECU Swap/Change Process

    Hi all,

    I purchased a spare MSS54HP ECU for my CSL airbox that I'll be installing soon. I wanted to test out the spare MSS54HP ECU so I installed it in my car and flashed my existing partial BIN with EWS deleted via ECUWorx. I used BMW Flash for pulling my original partial BIN and flashing the new ECU. I tried to start the car after flashing and it just cranks, no start. What is the correct process putting a different MSS54HP into my car?

    My car is an original 6 speed manual and the spare MSS54HP is from an SMG if that matters.

    Does the VIN matter if I deleted EWS? Am I supposed to flash my full BIN instead of partial?

    Thanks

    #2
    Is your coolant temp now in the red? If so it’s because you have a software version mismatch.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Martyn View Post
      Is your coolant temp now in the red? If so it’s because you have a software version mismatch.
      I also have this issue, my coolant temp is in the red. How do we go about correcting it?
      ‘02 LSB M3 (11k original miles)
      ’03 Oxford Green M3 (Turbo’d)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Martyn View Post
        Is your coolant temp now in the red? If so it’s because you have a software version mismatch.
        Thanks for the response. Coolant temp is in red. How do I fix it?

        I also tried with mssflash now and it gave me more detail. It said I “tune data vs program data mismatch”. “You’ll need to flash matching ECU/Program/Data to finalize”

        Comment


          #5
          Ok, flash the original read from the spare DME back in and you’ll be good to go.

          You can’t just randomly flash files into the DME without first checking that the tune version matches the program version already on the DME.

          Comment


            #6
            Ok will do. Just so I am clear, I can run the spare ecu I have by leaving all of the original software and just remove EWS? Does it matter that the spare ecu is from an SMG and mine is a 6 speed manual?

            Comment


              #7
              You’ll need to disable EWS and convert the software to manual or find the matching manual tune and then disable EWS on that.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Ceelooboob View Post
                Ok will do. Just so I am clear, I can run the spare ecu I have by leaving all of the original software and just remove EWS? Does it matter that the spare ecu is from an SMG and mine is a 6 speed manual?
                You can use strings or hex utility on the full bin read and figure out the software version you’re running. Then match it up with the appropriate 6MT full bin from here:

                MSS54 and MSS54HP XDFs . Contribute to saildot4k/MSS54-XDFs development by creating an account on GitHub.



                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks Martyn and eacmen ! All very helpful.

                  For now I just took the original partial BIN from my spare MSS54HP and updated it with the ECUWorx tool for a manual transmission and disabled EWS. Worked perfectly after that. I'll be mindful of software differences going forward.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Hey Martyn and eacmen i started experiencing a crank no start and coolant temp needle in the red after uploading my HTE tune to my DME.

                    any suggestions on how I can correct this issue? Do I need to send Hassan a full read? I sent him a partial bin that I tweaked via ecuworx. Not sure if that would effect anything

                    thanks!
                    ‘02 LSB M3 (11k original miles)
                    ’03 Oxford Green M3 (Turbo’d)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Check the file version you sent HTE matches the version you got back, it's simple enough with my software.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Hallerhan View Post
                        Hey Martyn and eacmen i started experiencing a crank no start and coolant temp needle in the red after uploading my HTE tune to my DME.

                        any suggestions on how I can correct this issue? Do I need to send Hassan a full read? I sent him a partial bin that I tweaked via ecuworx. Not sure if that would effect anything

                        thanks!
                        Yeah i suspect the issue is either the file you sent hassan or he used a file that was already modified and there is a version mismatch. He is very helpful through FB, Just message him.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Hallerhan View Post
                          Hey Martyn and eacmen i started experiencing a crank no start and coolant temp needle in the red after uploading my HTE tune to my DME.

                          any suggestions on how I can correct this issue? Do I need to send Hassan a full read? I sent him a partial bin that I tweaked via ecuworx. Not sure if that would effect anything

                          thanks!
                          Crank no start - not sure if I deleted the EWS incorrectly but I had to apply power to a lead that runs from the ECU through the fuse box and then to the EWS. I think it was fuse 5 or 7...IIRC it is a 5 amp fuse.

                          In the fuse box, the lead is not on a bus bar, it has a lead running in and out.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by bigjae46 View Post

                            Crank no start - not sure if I deleted the EWS incorrectly but I had to apply power to a lead that runs from the ECU through the fuse box and then to the EWS. I think it was fuse 5 or 7...IIRC it is a 5 amp fuse.

                            In the fuse box, the lead is not on a bus bar, it has a lead running in and out.
                            This is only required if you don’t have a matching key. As long as you have a matching key/EWS all you need to do is delete EWS check in the DME to be able to swap DMEs.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Martyn View Post
                              Check the file version you sent HTE matches the version you got back, it's simple enough with my software.
                              your software shows both files matching, so Hassan thinks the flash was not successful. Thankfully he’s going to try to remotely flash the tune
                              ‘02 LSB M3 (11k original miles)
                              ’03 Oxford Green M3 (Turbo’d)

                              Comment

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