So here's my dilemma. I've been fighting an Eml light on my car for the past month. I replaced the front Tps sensor (one by the oil filter housing) and I installed a new throttle actuator (comes with new tps sensor on it). The only last tps sensor is my pedal but I don't want to just keep buying parts not knowing if that will fix it. I ran the codes and it comes back with "E6 DME: Electric throttle: setpoint/actual value deviation" which I've also seen it under "drive by wire, throttle position failure". I did a "throttle adaptation" with my scan tool and it said it was okay. What happens is when I go full throttle at higher rpm the eml light kicks on and the car goes into limp mode. I noticed when I have the key in the ignition set to number 2 (car not running) and I press the gas pedal that my throttle bodies open all the way at about 75% throttle on the pedal. That seems weird to me. If I keep it full throttle the actuator just closes the throttle bodies and won't work until I turn the ignition off and on again. Same with my Eml light. It will turn off once I turn the car off and on again. Any input would be appreciated.
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Originally posted by ///m325i View PostSo here's my dilemma. I've been fighting an Eml light on my car for the past month. I replaced the front Tps sensor (one by the oil filter housing) and I installed a new throttle actuator (comes with new tps sensor on it). The only last tps sensor is my pedal but I don't want to just keep buying parts not knowing if that will fix it. I ran the codes and it comes back with "E6 DME: Electric throttle: setpoint/actual value deviation" which I've also seen it under "drive by wire, throttle position failure". I did a "throttle adaptation" with my scan tool and it said it was okay. What happens is when I go full throttle at higher rpm the eml light kicks on and the car goes into limp mode. I noticed when I have the key in the ignition set to number 2 (car not running) and I press the gas pedal that my throttle bodies open all the way at about 75% throttle on the pedal. That seems weird to me. If I keep it full throttle the actuator just closes the throttle bodies and won't work until I turn the ignition off and on again. Same with my Eml light. It will turn off once I turn the car off and on again. Any input would be appreciated.
and was working normal.BMW ///M3
Dinan | Eonon
BMW S1000rr
Dieci83 | 4Racing | OneDesign | D.I.D | R&G | TST | PSR | ASV |
TWM
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If you are not using OE clamps on the boots, that really could be your issue. I have seen it over and over and over.... you have to be really careful with the linkage.2003 Carbon Black - Karbonious CSL intake, CSL DME w/MAP, SSV1 headers/Catted Section1/63.5mm Section2, Shrick 280/272 cams, Lang Racing Stage 1 cylinder head, Eibach Pro Street S Coilovers (500#F/600#R), GC Sways, AutoSolutions SSK, Motorsport 3.91 rear diff, BBS RGR wheels, Streamline CSL front bumper
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If you had something interfering with the throttle linkage shaft that runs from the actuator and you fix what was interfering, does the actuator need to be recalibrated with a GT1 still? (with 2 new tps's installed)2003.5 Titanium Silver / Black 6M/T (Gone)
2003.5 Carbon Black / Laguna Seca Blue SMG (Dusted)
2004 Carbon Black / Black SMG converted to 6M/T(Current)
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[QUOTE=///m325i;n19856 "E6 DME: Electric throttle: setpoint/actual value deviation"
I press the gas pedal that my throttle bodies open all the way at about 75% throttle on the pedal. [/QUOTE]
This sounds more like the throttle body motor position encoder is bad -- not giving the proper feedback position data to the motor controller. If the intake hose clamps were too tight or bad then the throttle bodies should not able to open 100% as reported.
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Originally posted by sapote View Post
This sounds more like the throttle body motor position encoder is bad -- not giving the proper feedback position data to the motor controller. If the intake hose clamps were too tight or bad then the throttle bodies should not able to open 100% as reported.
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When I did that test it appeared they were open fully at 75% throttle but it was actually hitting one of the hose clamps. I had a friend press the pedal as I looked in the engine bay compared to me hitting the gas pedal by myself and peaking through my windshield. So that's how I figured it out. Once I rotated the one clamp the car ran perfectly fine.
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