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Ohlin RT guys: front wheel/tire sizes/offsets

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    Ohlin RT guys: front wheel/tire sizes/offsets

    Ohlin R&T guys ,

    What types of 9.5 , and 10 " front wheel AND tire setups are possible?

    How limiting is the front conical spring?

    TIA




    #2
    9.5 ET22 with a 265/35/18 should work with the stock Ohlins RT. Adding the Ohlins front strut spacer (3DM Motorsport stocks them) will give more clearance and a 9.5 and 10 inch wide wheel with 275+ tire should clear without issue.

    The struts in the Ohlins BMS Mi30 kit for the E46 M3 were designed to work with the OEM top mount. When converting to aftermarket camber plates, the "stack height" of the camber plate is much thinner than the OEM mount. This strut spacer kit moves the strut up to accommodate for the thinner stack height of the camber p

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      #3
      Originally posted by Slideways View Post
      9.5 ET22 with a 265/35/18 should work with the stock Ohlins RT. Adding the Ohlins front strut spacer (3DM Motorsport stocks them) will give more clearance and a 9.5 and 10 inch wide wheel with 275+ tire should clear without issue.

      https://3dmmotorsport.com/products/b...rut-spacer-kit
      Thanks for this .

      Seems more “useable” solutions exist now for OHLINS RT vs few yes ago. Or guys just figured it out trial and error. Like Ian - [mention]Obioban [/mention] Followed his tribulations closely but think he moved on from it.

      Any others?


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        #4
        Spring perch location vs the tire also depends on your ride height and top hat choice, in addition to spacer vs no spacer. The spacers are almost a requirement to get a high enough ride height with the right amount of bump travel by the way.

        I run 9.5 ET35 with a 265 Hankook RS4 on track and had no issues with the following setups, both at 13.5" hub to fender ride height and with the 3dm spacers:

        - TMS Street camber plates, 400 lb Ohlins beehive spring
        - (current) TMS Street camber plates with 2.5" spring perch, 325 lb 2.5" / 7.5" length springs

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          #5
          I have TE37s 18x9.5 et 22 with 265/35/18
          And CSL 19x9.5 et 27 with 265/30/19

          Both have no clearance issues with the R&T spring. A 275 on the TE37s would be tight.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by robgill View Post
            I have TE37s 18x9.5 et 22 with 265/35/18
            And CSL 19x9.5 et 27 with 265/30/19

            Both have no clearance issues with the R&T spring. A 275 on the TE37s would be tight.
            Do you have the 3DM spacer?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by repoman89 View Post
              Spring perch location vs the tire also depends on your ride height and top hat choice, in addition to spacer vs no spacer. The spacers are almost a requirement to get a high enough ride height with the right amount of bump travel by the way.

              I run 9.5 ET35 with a 265 Hankook RS4 on track and had no issues with the following setups, both at 13.5" hub to fender ride height and with the 3dm spacers:

              - TMS Street camber plates, 400 lb Ohlins beehive spring
              - (current) TMS Street camber plates with 2.5" spring perch, 325 lb 2.5" / 7.5" length springs
              Thanks Repo - 7.5" seems long for a front spring no? No plan to convert to a linear, would run out of box first


              robgill
              Thanks Rob, are you running CSL Squared? Didn't realize that, nice! Dont anticipate a OEM CSL front wheel rubbing stock Ohlin on a 265/35 PS4S'...

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                #8
                Nah, 7.5” is close to the minimum. Usable travel on these before bind is only like 4.5”, close to the 4” stroke of the Ohlins strut. The included beehive spring is 8”.

                Comment


                  #9


                  Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post

                  Thanks Repo - 7.5" seems long for a front spring no?
                  Note that he uses a 325 rate. I tried a 7" 336 rate and I couldn't get the car to 13.5 and was rubbing fender liner on bumps. The softer the rate the taller the spring you need.

                  Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

                  Youtube DIYs and more

                  All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                  PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by repoman89 View Post
                    Nah, 7.5” is close to the minimum. Usable travel on these before bind is only like 4.5”, close to the 4” stroke of the Ohlins strut. The included beehive spring is 8”.
                    Got it, thanks for clarifying this. Didn’t realize front stock spring was 8”

                    Originally posted by mrgizmo04 View Post

                    Note that he uses a 325 rate. I tried a 7" 336 rate and I couldn't get the car to 13.5 and was rubbing fender liner on bumps. The softer the rate the taller the spring you need.

                    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
                    Thanks Giz for summing this up, and noting that. Makes total sense. What have you finalized on? (Not that matters- plan to run out of box as stated)


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      You might consider a 700-750 lb rear spring to get a slightly higher rear ride frequency vs the front. That’s an easy one since it just sits between the adjuster and chassis with no camper plate spring perch BS. May end up riding better at speed and certainly will handle better than the stock rates.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by repoman89 View Post
                        You might consider a 700-750 lb rear spring to get a slightly higher rear ride frequency vs the front. That’s an easy one since it just sits between the adjuster and chassis with no camper plate spring perch BS. May end up riding better at speed and certainly will handle better than the stock rates.
                        Far as I see - not many "beehive" style rear springs available in high rates like 700-750? Only linear. Could be wrong - interesting Ohlin,KW,Tck all use a rated rear spring that's not linear.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post

                          Far as I see - not many "beehive" style rear springs available in high rates like 700-750? Only linear. Could be wrong - interesting Ohlin,KW,Tck all use a rated rear spring that's not linear.
                          Both front and rear springs in the Ohlins kit are linear despite their shape. To replace the rear you’d be looking at something like the Eibach XT in the same length and ID (I think it’s 6” / 2.5” ID but worth measuring to confirm)

                          Eibach engineers, manufactures, and sells the highest quality performance aftermarket suspension products in the world.

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                            #14


                            Originally posted by Exclusivs View Post

                            Thanks Giz for summing this up, and noting that. Makes total sense. What have you finalized on? (Not that matters- plan to run out of box as stated)

                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            I bought a few springs initially (Swift/Hyperco) in 7" to try, running on 350 7" now (I never ran stock Ohlins springs front or rear). Recently got the car corner balanced and was a bit nervous with the amount of threads engaged on the collar, it's way up there.

                            Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


                            Youtube DIYs and more

                            All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

                            PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              FWIW, I’m running an 18x8.5 et 32 on 245/40 PS4S without issues.

                              Off Topic: What setting are you guys running on Ohlins RT on the street? Still struggling to get the same comfortable feel I had when I ran Ohlins on my e92.

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