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Removing parking brake cable from wheel hub

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    Removing parking brake cable from wheel hub

    Hi, I'm trying to remove the parking brake cable from the hub, has anyone ever done that? I tried pulling with medium strength but it doesn't seem to want to come out... Should I just pull harder? In picture: front and rear view of the cable to the hub.

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    #2
    3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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      #3
      Thanks, but that doesn't really help me... hammer how, from the front, from the rear? Just put a wedge in the front and hammer seems like it would break the rubber :/

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        #4
        Did you actually watch the video? It shows him hammering, it cannot be more clear lol.

        Hammers from the front but in thinking about this it will be tough to put back without having some slack. You can loosen the two nuts that attach to the parking brake handle to the cables (just take off the e-brake boot). After adding the slack see if you can pull the cables through a bit so you can hammer from the front with your wedge onto the cable housing on the back side. This is probably going to be really tough to do since leverage won't be great.
        Last edited by oceansize; 04-10-2023, 05:36 PM.
        3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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          #5
          Originally posted by oceansize View Post
          Did you actually watch the video? It shows him hammering, it cannot be more clear lol.
          Lol my humblest apologies, when he changed the angle of the camera after saying hammer it with a wedge, I though he was done explaining this part!! Sorry !!

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            #6
            Whatever you do, do not damage the cable and end up needing to replace it. If you thought it's hard to get out of the knuckle, it's 1000x harder to get out of the subframe (assuming your car like mine is from the rust belt, given the rust from your pics)

            It took me a few mins to get out of the knuckles but a couple days to get out of the subframe

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              #7
              The parking brake cable will come out through the driveshaft side. You have to remove the shoe and then that mechanism, once they're out just pull. If it's seized which it may just well by judging by your pictures you'll want to use a deep socket, fitting over the cable end and move it so it's flush on the wheel side, then just hammer the socket, I think a deep 8mm or 9mm will do the trick. You could also do like the video with a chisel but you don't want to damage that aluminum cable tip, if you do it correctly, you'll be able to reuse them.

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                #8
                Originally posted by timmo View Post
                Whatever you do, do not damage the cable and end up needing to replace it. If you thought it's hard to get out of the knuckle, it's 1000x harder to get out of the subframe (assuming your car like mine is from the rust belt, given the rust from your pics)

                It took me a few mins to get out of the knuckles but a couple days to get out of the subframe
                That's odd... I gave up getting it out of the knuckle and pulled it out of the cabin instead, it took me about 5 minutes (with the exhaust out of the way). I'm dropping the subframe, and I originally thought it looked simpler to get the cable out from the knuckle, but after 20 minutes struggling with one side I gave up and pulled the cable out from the cabin instead.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post

                  That's odd... I gave up getting it out of the knuckle and pulled it out of the cabin instead, it took me about 5 minutes (with the exhaust out of the way). I'm dropping the subframe, and I originally thought it looked simpler to get the cable out from the knuckle, but after 20 minutes struggling with one side I gave up and pulled the cable out from the cabin instead.
                  Ahh, yeah most everyone disconnects from inside the cabin and I do as well when dropping the rear end.
                  3.91 | CMP Subframe & RTAB Bushings | SMG (Relocated & Rebuilt) | ESS Gen 3 Supercharger | Redish | Beisan | GC Coilovers & ARCAs | Imola Interior | RE Rasp | RE Diablo | Storm Motorwerks Paddles | Will ZCPM3 Shift Knob | Apex ARC-8 19x9, 19x9.5 | Sony XAV-AX5000 | BAVSOUND | CSL & 255 SMG Upgrades | Tiag | Vert w/Hardtop

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by E46m3zcp View Post

                    That's odd... I gave up getting it out of the knuckle and pulled it out of the cabin instead, it took me about 5 minutes (with the exhaust out of the way). I'm dropping the subframe, and I originally thought it looked simpler to get the cable out from the knuckle, but after 20 minutes struggling with one side I gave up and pulled the cable out from the cabin instead.
                    Yeah, good call - in fact, if you got it out of the knuckle, you'd then have to remove it from the subframe anyways to drop the subframe

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