Rear Diff Output Shaft Install

[Ubaderb]

I just replaced the leaking seal on my diff. I replaced all with new parts including the circlip/lock ring. Now I can not get it to seat fully. It will not go beyond the new clip. I've used both a dead blow and now a mini sledge. I double checked there was nothing left over from the old circlip. Made sure the seals where sitting flush. Is this keyed a certain way I don't realize? Any help will be appreciated!

[Cubieman]

I had a similar issue installing an output shaft, the issue is there was two sets of splines that the shaft must engage and somehow I had the splines out of sync.

Double check that your splines line up and also carefully inspect the chamfered portion of the output shaft for and deformation as to not let it seat correctly after hitting it with a hammer, I'm sure it's fine though.

[Ubaderb]

I had a similar issue installing an output shaft, the issue is there was two sets of splines that the shaft must engage and somehow I had the splines out of sync.

Double check that your splines line up and also carefully inspect the chamfered portion of the output shaft for and deformation as to not let it seat correctly after hitting it with a hammer, I'm sure it's fine though.

I just figured that out seconds before I came back and refreshed this. Still didn't help me out sadly.

[Gt4]

If you turn the other output shaft while the other one is removed, the spline shaft inside the LSD are out of sync. And pretty sure they have the pressure from the clutch so harder to sync back.

[sapote]

If you turn the other output shaft while the other one is removed, the spline shaft inside the LSD are out of sync. And pretty sure they have the pressure from the clutch so harder to sync back.

It cannot happen this way because the clutch stack is locked/preloaded and locked to the carrier.

[sapote]

I just replaced the leaking seal on my diff. I replaced all with new parts including the circlip/lock ring. Now I can not get it to seat fully. It will not go beyond the new clip. I've used both a dead blow and now a mini sledge. I double checked there was nothing left over from the old circlip. Made sure the seals were sitting flush. Is this keyed a certain way I don't realize? Any help will be appreciated!

What year (v1 or v2) and left or right side has issue?
pre 2005 should have no issue on the right side; post 2005 and newer no issue on the left.

[Gt4]

It cannot happen this way because the clutch stack is locked/preloaded and locked to the carrier.

How it happens than?

[E46m3zcp]

I had similar issues. The first and most obvious thing is the inside splines had dropped down and were no longer aligned, so I pressed it upwards with my finger through the output flange ring (the part with the hex bolts) and it went in fine. Then, when inserting the splined output shafts, the right side went in easily but I had to rotate the input slightly before the left side inserted. It was getting into the lock collar though in my case. I just wasn’t able to install
it fully.

[Ubaderb]

What year (v1 or v2) and left or right side has issue?
pre 2005 should have no issue on the right side; post 2005 and newer no issue on the left.

It is an 03'

[Ubaderb]

So the answer at least to me was to first seat the clip into the diff itself. Then run the output shafts in. They clicked into place with barely a push. I find that so odd. I could not overcome the immense force to seat it with the clip on the shaft but place the clip into the diff and I can push it in with one finger? I even removed the clip completely to see if maybe something further in was holding me back from fully seating and I got nothing.

[sapote]

So the answer at least to me was to first seat the clip into the diff itself. Then run the output shafts in. They clicked into place with barely a push. I find that so odd. I could not overcome the immense force to seat it with the clip on the shaft but place the clip into the diff and I can push it in with one finger? I even removed the clip completely to see if maybe something further in was holding me back from fully seating and I got nothing.

Yes, the ring must be installed in the diff first, then insert the output flange.

"I find that so odd. I could not overcome the immense force to seat it with the clip on the shaft"
That is the purpose of the design -- if you can easily insert the shaft with ring in, then it also could easily pop out like this, then disaster happens. The groove depth on the shaft is less than in the diff, and so it's impossible to insert the shaft with the ring.

[sapote]

How it happens than?

The only way for the clutch stack splines to be out of alignment with the side-gear is that the side gear rotated, not the clutches.

[sapote]

The only way for the clutch stack splines to be out of alignment with the side-gear is that the side gear rotated, not the clutches.

EX: if you pull the longer output flange off the diff (its splines no longer lock the side-gear and the clutch stack together), and then you rotate the shorter output flange. At this point, the Diff is acting like an open diff and so the side-gear of the longer flange side will rotate in the opposite direction as the short flange rotated. This would cause the side-gear splines out of sync with the clutch stack splines.

[bigjae46]

BFH...big fvcking hammer. Bang that b1tch in. Problem solved.

[sapote]

BFH...big fvcking hammer. Bang that b1tch in. Problem solved.

Even if the side-gear and clutch stack splines are out of line? the BFH would damage the clutch center core (it has inner and outer splines) in this case.
One just need to insert the long output flange through the side-gear, then slowly rotate until it aligned and engage with the clutch center core splines, then one can hammer it home if wants to.