ARP Head Studs - Opinions

[Arith2]

This is good logic, but if you’re doing this for the first time it’s just not that simple.

When rebuilding my engine I made several choices based on cost alone. Some of those decisions worked out, but some did not and it sucked and caused about 3 months of waiting.

If you build these engines frequently, and have all the confidence in the world. Yep, the cost-based logic is a no-brainer.

But if you’re doing this for the first time or haven’t done it in a while there is value in the ability to go back. And also, in the peace of mind that you can go back.

Here’s the scenario. You followed the TIS, which is great and pretty thorough, but you’re lying awake at night wondering the following… did you put the sealant on? Do you want to double check a piston orientation (don’t have a boroscope)? Forget those random O-rings on the timing chain rails? Front main seal - guess what, it decided not to seal. Did you triple check the thinnest part of the walls between the cylinders for debris? On both the block and head and both sides of the gasket?

To know the answer to these the head comes back off.

When you had four hands helping to set the head down and you were holding the timing chain up in the air and expertly placing the 50lb juggernaut down did you get that dowel fitted perfectly or did you slip and mark the soft aluminum head?

You only have 10-15 minutes to get that HG on, apply the sealant, drop the head, and torque 14 bolts in sequence in multiple stages of torque. 42 precise torquing events. In smooth rotations. Did you get them all right every time?

Did you video every step to QA/QC yourself? Nope, well then you don’t really know.

All of that to say… how do you avoid these problems and keep your project going on a decent timeline? (We all know BMWs e46 parts are going NLA more and more all the time)

1) you’re a pro ($55)
2) you’re not a pro but you have multiple sets of stock bolts ($110+)
3) you’re not a pro and have ARP ($2xx)

But just remember, 15 minutes to get it just right the first time. Set up that camera, but if you kick it over mid process you won’t have time to reset it and accomplish your mission.

Tick. Tock.

At least, for one crazy person (me), this is how I thought about it.

I've had cars keep me up at night. Never forgot to put oil in an engine and never left a wheel loose but that doubt fairy visits me at night sometimes. I doubt I will be removing the head multiple times but everyone makes mistakes. Reusable parts make it much easier if something is missed. It's also one less part to wait for. I had a torque wrench fail in the middle of an angle torque on rod bolts. Waiting two days for parts over something like that is infuriating

[George Hill]

At least, for one crazy person (me), this is how I thought about it.

Fair, but if you pull the head off again... throw away that head gasket... so its not just a free R&I even with studs. I'd rather buy a bore scope than pull the head back off, at least you can repurpose the scope for other projects (I just used mine to help fish wiring through my office walls).

If this is the person you are (and we all are for the most part) you just have to document it it very well. Have a process, lay out all your parts, take pics, mark bolts, etc. It won't always cure this situation but still its a good way to go about it.

[tlow98]

Fair, but if you pull the head off again... throw away that head gasket... so its not just a free R&I even with studs. I'd rather buy a bore scope than pull the head back off, at least you can repurpose the scope for other projects (I just used mine to help fish wiring through my office walls).

If this is the person you are (and we all are for the most part) you just have to document it it very well. Have a process, lay out all your parts, take pics, mark bolts, etc. It won't always cure this situation but still its a good way to go about it.

Oh yeah, absolutely, with the HG.

Engine is back together and running like a top :-)

appreciate your tips, always!