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Koni Sport Kit rear shock settings for E46 M3 ***CONVERTIBLE***

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    Koni Sport Kit rear shock settings for E46 M3 ***CONVERTIBLE***

    I bought the Koni Sport Kit 1145-1012. For some reason, it's also referred to as 1140-3641, but in any case both kits contain the following components:

    (Front)
    8741 1438LSpor
    8741 1438RSpor
    (Rear)
    8240 1203Sport​

    I didn't realize the rears can't be adjusted on the car and need to be removed to fully compress and twist. So before installing, does anyone know the answer to the following questions?

    1. What's the default setting on the rear shocks when they ship - full soft, or somewhere in the middle?
    2. What's a good starting point for a CONVERTIBLE M3 that's usually only street driven solo or occasionally with one passenger?
    3. Might as well ask about the fronts, although much easier to adjust on the car with the knob.

    It seems like it will be a pain to remove and reinstall multiple times, so hopefully other convertible owners experience will help. Thanks!

    #2
    I have the same setup for a coupe and drive it like you and have mine set at one notch below full soft for front and back.

    Comment


      #3
      At the end of the day it's like seasoning, season to taste.
      There was an post on miata forums from back in the day that I had posted onto the old m3f where a Koni person said to start off at softest setting and then adjust firmer as the damper aged / accrued miles, or if you need to control rebound from firmer springs.
      Also, if I remember correctly, some people were experiencing the adjustment becoming frozen when set at full soft. The fix was to go full soft and then do a 1/4-1/2 turn towards firm.
      As for how they're shipped, I don't think there's one default setting. Best to start all dampers from a known point (either full soft or full firm) and adjust from there.
      Edit: sorry, i'm no help for settings on a convertible. maybe others will chime in what settings they like.

      Comment


        #4
        I would go about 1/2 to 1 turn from full soft.

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks everyone. Taking all that into consideration, I think 1/4 to 1/2 turn stiffer than full soft sounds like the safest place to start.

          Comment


            #6
            Go 1/2 turn... I have Koni adjustables on another car... 1/2 turn from soft is what you can feel... 1/4 might be a waste.

            maw

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
              Go 1/2 turn... I have Koni adjustables on another car... 1/2 turn from soft is what you can feel... 1/4 might be a waste.

              maw
              I was originally thinking full soft, but didn't want to run into the problem of a frozen shock. Then again, maybe those who had the problem on full soft cranked it too much when it stopped.

              Comment


                #8
                Please report back on how you like the change.

                When I first got this car, the race guys I knew would say this chassis was already too stiff from the factory, which made it slide too much in the corner v flexing and staying grippy through the turns. It was over my head (cuz I'm no racer) but I listened and understood the physics of what was being communicated.

                So I always find it interesting when people want to stiffen things on this car.

                maw

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by FFWD View Post

                  I was originally thinking full soft, but didn't want to run into the problem of a frozen shock. Then again, maybe those who had the problem on full soft cranked it too much when it stopped.
                  What do you mean a frozen shock?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by maw1124 View Post
                    Please report back on how you like the change.

                    When I first got this car, the race guys I knew would say this chassis was already too stiff from the factory, which made it slide too much in the corner v flexing and staying grippy through the turns. It was over my head (cuz I'm no racer) but I listened and understood the physics of what was being communicated.

                    So I always find it interesting when people want to stiffen things on this car.

                    maw
                    On the konis all you have control over is the rebound so the stiffness should pretty much be set and left alone. I wouldn't say it adds appreciable stiffness versus springs and compression damping

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by cobra View Post
                      On the konis all you have control over is the rebound so the stiffness should pretty much be set and left alone. I wouldn't say it adds appreciable stiffness versus springs and compression damping
                      I went with new factory rears on mine so this is idle curiosity — since he’s doing it we may as well all know the results. That was years ago when the car was maybe 10 years old and new factory was a noticeable improvement — tightened things up right quick. I wonder what additional chassis stresses result from a stiffer than factory shock back there though. I know it all comes down to use, but it’s an interesting question to consider.

                      maw

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by cobra View Post

                        What do you mean a frozen shock?
                        This:

                        Originally posted by Will View Post
                        Also, if I remember correctly, some people were experiencing the adjustment becoming frozen when set at full soft. The fix was to go full soft and then do a 1/4-1/2 turn towards firm.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I never got around to installing the shocks because the fuel pump died. From the service history, it was replaced only 130,000 kms ago, but it has been 14 years, so I guess I can't complain too much. I replaced it last week, so all good there, and have been shopping for a few additional parts before upgrading the suspension. I figured I probably shouldn't be installing the new shocks on 23-year-old bump stops. Stay tuned.

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