THE M3 IS GETTING THE ANRI BUILD TREATMENT - Blown headgasket to build thread

[EthanolTurbo]

427,

Thanks for your reply.

With the risk of turning this thread into oil thread...I am sharing
my personal opinion which may differ to others, often we don't have
to agree on all of it..

Race track 10W60 works great (one can play with straight
viscosity let say W50 but it's tricky and narrowing down conditions)
10W60 will give wide range of conditions.

East cost people during winter I would use 5W40. 0W50 is also an
option.

Regardless which oil I like to add 500ppm of zinc for our
"friction based" valve train.

10W40 is mid viscosity its nether for cold nor warm..and not my
cup of tea.

With over 15 Blackstone lab oil tests I am seeing oils ZDDP dropped
in 600-700ppm range for 10W60 except RedLine 10W60 is at around
~950rpm. In any case no matter the oil choice I always use Zinc additive
of 500ppm to bring to around 1200-1300ppm but not more.

Regards,
Anri

This is why I use Redline and VR1... high zinc is exactly what this motor needs.

[Anri]

Lovely work and a great thread to read Anri, thank you.

Which engine oil do you use in S54 engines?

I have been told in the past that the OEM Castrol 20W60 doesn't cling to the components in the top of the engine.

Is 10W40 not a better option, at least on a rebuilt low mileage engine?

427,

Thanks for your reply.

With the risk of turning this thread into oil thread...I am sharing
my personal opinion which may differ to others, often we don't have
to agree on all of it..

Race track 10W60 works great (one can play with straight
viscosity let say W50 but it's tricky and narrowing down conditions)
10W60 will offer wide range of conditions.

East cost people during winter I would use 5W40. 0W50 is also an
option.

Regardless which oil I like to add 500ppm of zinc for our
"friction based" valve train.

10W40 is mid viscosity its nether for cold nor warm..and not my
cup of tea.

With over 15 Blackstone lab oil tests I am seeing oils ZDDP dropped
in 600-700ppm range for 10W60 except RedLine 10W60 is at around
~950rpm. In any case no matter the oil choice I always use Zinc additive
of 500ppm to bring level around 1200-1300ppm but not more.

Regards,
Anri

[ChapterM3]

Definitely. All the best with it.

I've been running Motul 300v 10w40 Ester based oil. This was recommended by the guy that built my engine. He is the same guy that builds the engines for Evolve.

So i was just wondering what Anri thought about different grades of engine oil in general.

Thank you! I'm not an oil expert by any means but have been following BMW the years I've owned my car with 10w60 - I can't say much more than that

Fun to follow as a casual driver/racer. Thanks for sharing.

I need to do waterpump, FCP sells the genuine without(?) the impeller. Whats the best route here guys? My understanding from reading this thread is that I want a oem with plastic impeller design. This is for my race car. Where can I find or piece together the assembly that offers lifetime replacement?

Thanks

My best input on this would be to call FCP and ask - I just read their description on the genuine BMW part and it's not clear if it includes it from that - but in the photo there's clearly a plastic impeller that water pump. See what they say!

[ac427]

Personally, I'd reverse the question and ask why your engine builder recommends an oil viscosity not specified by the BMW engineers.

I covered the reason in post 205 and the guy that built my engine is not on here but Anri is. So i was keen to get another expert's view.

[oceansize]

Definitely. All the best with it.

I've been running Motul 300v 10w40 Ester based oil. This was recommended by the guy that built my engine. He is the same guy that builds the engines for Evolve.

So i was just wondering what Anri thought about different grades of engine oil in general.

Personally, I'd reverse the question and ask why your engine builder recommends an oil viscosity not specified by the BMW engineers.

[ac427]

CANNOT WAIT to get the car back 😃 Those leak down numbers are looking gooooood!! 10w60 is only what I've used and what I'll continue to use going forward

Definitely. All the best with it.

I've been running Motul 300v 10w40 Ester based oil. This was recommended by the guy that built my engine. He is the same guy that builds the engines for Evolve.

So i was just wondering what Anri thought about different grades of engine oil in general.

[ChapterM3]

CANNOT WAIT to get the car back 😃 Those leak down numbers are looking gooooood!! 10w60 is only what I've used and what I'll continue to use going forward

[Anri]

Anri, have you ever lightened/knife edged/balanced a crankshaft for an S54 rebuild? If so, any thoughts?

Feff

Hi Feff,

Thanks for the question.

This is well off subject, this question falls into
race engine build.

Never ever ever knife edge any crankshaft !!!
It will destroy your main bearings. I have tested
this 16 years ago.

Why ? the function of the Fillet is to counter the weight
of the rod+piston combination.

I went very deep into Crankshaft study and design because
I am in a process of making some stroker cranks.

From many specific areas around the crank this area is
called "Balance Factor" I started to reverse engineer
the BMW crank by study what balance factor they are
using. I don't want to go in deep because this post will
be like prescription drug from the hospital...

BMW did lighten the S54 in extremely clever way,
look at the counter weights but they keep the balance
factor perfect and why on S54 main bearings last 200k+

Pic bellow is from a crank I cut to study what balance
factory BMW Motorsport used in their crankshaft.

Benefits ? When I did lighten that test crank I was able
to remove 9lb that is pretty good chunk. My revving characteristics
barely I mean barely got improved if ANY and that is because the
crankshaft as radius is so low as opposite of Flywheel or let say a
piston. It did improve my Windage in the oil pan by 0.0000000001%

S54 crankshaft is already light, if remove may be 2lb will
do nothing to you I mean nothing but problems with the main
bearings.

Regards,
Anri

[Feffman]

Anri, have you ever lightened/knife edged/balanced a crankshaft for an S54 rebuild? If so, any thoughts?

Feff

[ac427]

Gents,
Car is ready to cover 200k miles if maintain properly
and of course without overheat and regular 10W60 oil with moly and zddp additive, no problem.

Lovely work and a great thread to read Anri, thank you.

Which engine oil do you use in S54 engines?

I have been told in the past that the OEM Castrol 20W60 doesn't cling to the components in the top of the engine.

Is 10W40 not a better option, at least on a rebuilt low mileage engine?

[Anri]

Gents,

After the engine refresh I connected the battery back in
and the trip odometer resets to 0. I noted earlier today
that I drove the engine exact 40miles including going to
the shop today to check the leak down and assemble
everything.

Results are:

Cyl #1-2-3-4-5-6 do have exact ~3% leak down <1%
This is only for 40miles, that is pretty gooooooood.
Give the engine another 1000miles and it will improve
with another 1%. I like to check the leak down under
100miles after rebuild to monitor how fast I was able to
sit the rings, valves. Usually on a fresh motor sitting on
the engine stand leak down varies in-between 7%-10%
and all is thru the rings.

Spark plugs are all even color.

Car is ready to cover 200k miles if maintain properly
and of course without overheat and regular 10W60 oil
with moly and zddp additive, no problem.


This project is now completed. Going back to the other
S54 engine ready to hop into E30M3 and 2) S62s one
in E24 and the other into Imola Red E39M5.

Regards,
Anri

[sapote]

Okay, in order to take 0.002" with lapping
compound what you will find is the surface
will be scratched by a lot and you are not
going to like it, Sapote. Then will have fun
polishing the parts to mirror finish as they
from the factory, smooth.

Sapote, the saying says "there are thousand ways to skim the cat"
I think you chose # 1000 from list easy to hard.

I personally will machine the cylinder 0.002" and keep the
plastic cage and the shims factory untouched, but again that
is just me.

Regards,
Anri

Anri,
I don’t think my method is different than yours, except I lap the cylinder spacer (don’t have a lathe) and you machine it.
No need to polish the spacer as it doesn’t serve as a bearing surface.

[Anri]

With the splined shaft removed, clamp down one end and measure the axial plays of the other end with a dial indicator. I.e. if the plays is 0.002" then I lap down the cylinder spacer by the same amount of 0.002" -- a little less is ok but not more than 0.002". Not touching any other components.

Okay, in order to take 0.002" with lapping
compound what you will find is the surface
will be scratched by a lot and you are not
going to like it, Sapote. Then will have fun
polishing the parts to mirror finish as they
from the factory, smooth.

Sapote, "there are thousand ways to skim the cat"
I think you chose # 1000 from the list easy to hard.

I personally will machine the cylinder 0.002" and keep the
plastic cage and the shims factory untouched, but again that
is just me.

Regards,
Anri

[fourmula1]

Fun to follow as a casual driver/racer. Thanks for sharing.

I need to do waterpump, FCP sells the genuine without(?) the impeller. Whats the best route here guys? My understanding from reading this thread is that I want a oem with plastic impeller design. This is for my race car. Where can I find or piece together the assembly that offers lifetime replacement?

Thanks

[ChapterM3]

It's incredible to see the car running and hear it again - so looking forward to getting it back and giving it that first drive! Can't wait!!!