THE M3 IS GETTING THE ANRI BUILD TREATMENT - Blown headgasket to build thread

[sapote]

Sapote,

First I would say explain what method
are you planing to use ? Lap the
parts individuals separate or ? You have
to describe in deep details I can not be
guessing what method are you going to use...

With the splined shaft removed, clamp down one end and measure the axial plays of the other end with a dial indicator. I.e. if the plays is 0.002" then I lap down the cylinder spacer by the same amount of 0.002" -- a little less is ok but not more than 0.002". Not touching any other components.

[Anri]

Cranked the engine several times with
fresh oil and spark plugs out to reduce
pressure on top of the bearings, light off.
Primed the injectors and it started from
half a turn like your daily driver before
you go to work in the morning.

Took it for ~50miles Break-In my way with
heavy heavy loads. It runs flawlessly.
Few more miles spark plugs out to test
leak down and assemble the cabin filter
and the rest.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Im confused. Why lapping the spacer would damage the bearings?

Sapote,

First I would say explain what method
are you planing to use ? Lap the
parts individuals separate or ? You have
to describe in deep details I can not be
guessing what method are you going to use...
But let say the std method will be to put
the lapping compound and assemble the
parts and have fun left and right..

The lapping compounds are very
abrasive, the needle bearing must
be glass smooth when it's installed
inside the plastic "cage" during work out.
Why do you want the needle bearing to receive
abrasive surface by lapping it and
compound will be all over the place ?

I told you much better way, take
0.001" each pass by shortening the
cylinder in order to expose the washers
flat with the cylinder.

Cleaner, better and not making the
surface abrasive rough and messy
by using lapping compound that can damage
the plastic cage.

When I was perfecting my valve seat
to valve method, I was trying different lapping
compound. When the media is rough its was
leaving micro lines on the valve seat and the
valve contact ring line. I end up with the softest
lapping compound available so I can just check
my valve job for hi and low areas.


Regards
Anri

[sapote]

I would not use lapping method using compound it will damage the
small needle bearings.

I would kiss the cylinder height in order to expose the
shims and job done..

Im confused. Why lapping the spacer would damage the bearings?

[Anri]

Anybody heard of cleaning the intake plenum
from collected oil film? Always clean these.
We dont want to dilute the intake charge..

Vanos dialed in, injectors service and in a day
or so vroom vroom

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

[FONT=Calibri] I just sand and lap the spacer to reduce the plays instead of buying the anti-rattle kit.

I would not use lapping method using compound it will damage the
small needle bearings.

I would kiss the cylinder height in order to expose the
shims and job done..Sometimes I get excited on New
parts.

Regards
Anri

[sapote]

Anri, I’m with you that most cars don’t have vanos rattle issue at 150K miles and I have been saying no need to touch the anti-rattle kit unless it’s verified there is plays.

In my post I just wanted to say shims thickness don’t mean anything unless the cylinder spacer is measured. Car might have multiple owners and we don’t know if the spacer had been filed/lapped before. For example, if my car has rattle issue, I just sand and lap the spacer to reduce the plays instead of buying the anti-rattle kit.

[Anri]

might have lapped it down to fit.

The cylinder is part of sandwich and as you said it never wears out. If the
shims are thinner they will sink and the shaft will receive play. I can sand
2 shims down for the sake of a test. I can borrow one from the other engine
on the pipe line and I can show you..

The previous service source never did full vanos service and you
guess they did lapping..? come on Sapote. I confirm the parts have
never been touched, I can tell by looking at the part. Point is the thicker shim
will prevent the shaft from moving and why this kit is called "anti rattle kit".
I have note yet to seen OEM with 150k or 200k miles to have a play.

My point is that the OME parts are fine and not worn out at this milage. I
also have measured other units and they show the same +/-

[sapote]

Moving to the Vanos. Not sure what others measure
but I am sharing my measurement and Beisan shims are
thinner than the OEM on Jonathan's M3 at 154k miles.
I confirm they have never been done from the previous
service source using Dr.Vanos parts, so all OEM with
again 154k miles.

A quick measurement shows that the lower/bottom shim
is exactly 1.00mm means zero run out and the Beisan
is 0.980mm

The upper one at the top OEM is 0.986mm

0.006+/-mm is nothing and will not cause a rattle at all.

Hi Anri, I assume these shims are the ones inside the spline-shaft roller bearing. Shim thickness is meaningless unless when compare with the cylinder spacer height, and the rollers dia.My understand is these parts are not plug-n-play, but they need to be lapped to fit, unless one use all new parts: 2 shims, spacer, 2 bearings, and the shaft with rotor, total 6 parts. The cylinder spacer is a non-wear part, but previous person might have lapped it down to fit.

[Anri]

The boring stuff I have to deal with...and time consuming..

One of the 02 never wanted to let go...

Regards
Anri

[Anri]

cobra

No more black dark oil sludge.

I quit using hot tank parts washer due to staining
the aluminum very bad.

Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Moving to the Vanos. Not sure what others measure
but I am sharing my measurement and Beisan shims are
thinner than the OEM on Jonathan's M3 at 154k miles.
I confirm they have never been done from the previous
service source using Dr.Vanos parts, so all OEM with
again 154k miles.

A quick measurement shows that the lower/bottom shim
is exactly 1.00mm means zero run out and the Beisan
is 0.980mm

The upper one at the top OEM is 0.986mm

0.006+/-mm is nothing and will not cause a rattle at all. For
those who may think I am saying that baisan parts are bad NO
I am not saying that, nor will just to confirm. I am just sharing
data nothing else. I use Beisan parts only and all the time.

Moving forward.


Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

The key is to not use too much. If you have big globs of sealant breaking off inside the engine you have used way too much.

Almost all manufacturers use it to seal engines and transmissions these days. It is not uncommon to find all sorts of silicone chunks and metal shavings during a first oil change.

Cobra,

I was obsessed with finding sealing solutions. I
have tried everything on the market related to sealant.
No matter how careful you will put the RTV silicone it always
without exception is going inside. If you put too little oil
will find its way out.

Remember factory uses robot to apply the silicone so
no matter how good your hand is you will never match.
Also they don't have time means on production line everything
is fast fast fast...and why gaskets are skipped because it take
time and money.

On the older engines I use 4 different compounds in various
areas around the engine.

On S54 engine I use 2 different compounds.

Never liked RTV but that just me.

Regards,
Anri.

[cobra]

M539s latest episode (Project Marseille ep.8) has a good visual/explanation on addressing the silicone gaskets. Leaving a bead vs. using a brush.

Without watching the video, I can see pros/cons to each method.

A bead will not have any air pockets because it will evenly squeeze from the middle out as it is compressed. It's harder to judge quantity and put way too much. It's also critical that the uncoated side is perfectly clean and the parts are assembled quickly so there's not a skinned over surface that doesn't bond to one side. This is how they do it in production manufacturing because they can control all these variables accurately.

Spreading the gasket material on both sides lets you more accurately put the right amount and ensure good coverage, but also can skin over more quickly and can create air pockets.

Personally I've always used the 'dab' method to create lots of peaks and ensure the gasket material is adequately adhered to both sides. It has seemed to work pretty well so far. Equally as important as the method is the stuff you're using. I like using slow cure (1 hour+ of work time) so that I don't need to worry about skinning over and can carefully take my time installing.

[slavik1988]

M539s latest episode (Project Marseille ep.8) has a good visual/explanation on addressing the silicone gaskets. Leaving a bead vs. using a brush.