THE M3 IS GETTING THE ANRI BUILD TREATMENT - Blown headgasket to build thread

[sapote]

1. By what 1%...the slack is absolute unacceptable in my book. I even think that the Beisan can be
little tighter, but okay its fine as is.

2.Do you want your hub to see glowing red melted material in the
helical gears drive area ?


Regards
Anri

Anri,

I don't like like the 90* sharp corners on the the OEM hub with the machined tabs, which is a source for stress riser leading to cracking; they should be chamfered at these corner (the crank shaft has the chamfered corners at every con-rod throws for the same reason -- prevents the cracking). Obviously it's cheaper to make parts with no chamfered corners and BMW opted for this way.

1. I didn't know that Beisan disk new holes are still having too much plays -- how much is the plays if you have the data? 0.004"? When I had my disk drilled, it was about 0.002" plays and I have to be very careful when bolting down the vanos to the head to make sure the hub pins and the disk are not binding due to lack of perfect concentricity by tolerance stacked up from camshaft to pump disk.

2. Of course we don't want to have distorted splines hub from hot welding, but I just wanted to point out that whoever chose to Tig weld the pins for the reason of stress risers by the 90* corner if they were machined. Maybe the splines are with more clearance and so they are not binding up after the Tig welding process and this can be easily verified with the parts in hand.

[Anri]

I thought the driving pins on these non-OEM hubs are larger than the stock hub pins to minimize the plays

By what 1%...the slack is absolute unacceptable in my book. I even think that the Beisan can be
little tighter, but okay its fine as is.

Maybe the Tig weld is to prevent the stress-riser at the sharp 90* angle at the base of the pins compared to machined hub?

Sapote, when you weld particular spot you have stressed the surrounded
area and that is never good when you have such a precise design.
It has nothing to do with the sharp 90 as you point. As long as the
parts are tight not hammering it back and forth as on the oem its all
good.

Do you want your hub to see glowing red melted material in the
helical gears drive area ?


Regards
Anri

[sapote]

The oil pump disc remained with oem size holes. The welded drive pins are
lose in the hole which is resulting rattle at around 2000-2200rpm range from
both camshaft back/torque operation.

I thought the driving pins on these non-OEM hubs are larger than the stock hub pins to minimize the plays.
Maybe the Tig weld is to prevent the stress-riser at the sharp 90* angle at the base of the pins compared to machined hub?

[Anri]

I am always intrigued why some engines have such a dark brown staining inside, while others look very clean like bare metal.

Cobra,

Thanks for your comment.

It's very easy.

Cars which started life in freezing temperatures
do not do well with that. That means the oil from
freezing temps will heat up to 210F and back again
to freezing for min 6 months of the year for the passed
15-20 years let say.

Every single engine I have worked on from cold
States they have that without exception unless
the car is driven only in summer time.

Even if you change the oil every 2000k miles one
will always have that black oil burn deposit.

Say California cars never ever have that heavy black
oil burned deposit.

Regards,
Anri

[cobra]

I am always intrigued why some engines have such a dark brown staining inside, while others look very clean like bare metal.

[Anri]

Diving in:

Few things to note the Concept applied from whoever performed the service
for this engine perviously.

I always say their isn't a wrong concept by one choosing what to do, but
their is not an optimum set up!

- The exhaust side hub design is very goofy...the biggest downside
of this design is that the hub is TiG welded!!! TIG welding parts is great
because the heat penetrates very deep resulting the parts to warp
for sure. Delicate area/s like the helical gear may/will be affected, one never
wants to have welded parts which are warped. I mean we are talking very
little just few thou and that is all you need to have wobbly part/s..In areas like
let say suspension, roll cage, 1-2-3-4thou it won't make absolutely any difference..

I am sure they will argue till the cows come back from the grass field which
may be months that its not a problem but in my engine I will prefer to have
the OEM or Beisan hub machined from 1 solid piece

- The oil pump disc remained with oem size holes. The welded drive pins are
lose in the hole which is resulting rattle at around 2000-2200rpm range from
both camshaft back/torque operation.


- Next, one spent all of of that bloody labor and did not replace the 8.8 cam
flange bolts ?

Moving forward.


Regards,
Anri

[Anri]

Anri,

To be clear this is the fan clutch? From a e36?

Yes and make sure you don't tell anybody.

Keep in mind that if you install the Sachs and you blow up
your gasket next month don't speak negative that it does
not work...Say the car ran for 100k miles with Behr and the
abuse is already done on the gasket...

It's a good upgrade, can't go wrong with that one for sure.

Regards,
Anri

[oceansize]

Well crap, I bought a Behr back in 2019. No issues but darn it.

[Grke46m3]

Anri,

To be clear this is the fan clutch? From a e36?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[ChapterM3]

I've never thought I'd be so happy to see the confirmation come in that the head gasket is actually the culprit, and that a fan clutch was the culprit - thank you for the update!! Hoping nothing else is the matter once it's opened up 🤞

[Anri]

Gents,


Let this all begin.

I am a bit crazy and tools like leak down tester and compression
tester I always have 2 different gauges and I always take measurement
with both on let say cyl#1 to make sure the reading I am getting is spot
on and then I continue with the Longacre to test the rest.

I use old school but NOS Made in USA Matco and also
I have the Longacre which shows me the exact % which I like better.

Most people will use the Matco style which shows in "wide window range"
also the increments are in 5% range but I like exact accuracy in numbers.

The leak is escaping between the bores. I confirm the fan clutch is lazy
and I was making a point in other post how the Behr fan clutch is not good
compared to Sachs. I will point again the system works opposite as on the
older BMWs and this is the result from running hot, not overheating but running
hot resulting tired head gasket.

Inline-6 engines, 5-6 run always hot and why you can see those cylinders
suffer the most damage from the rest.

You guys can compare the numbers taken from the previous test.

Regards,
Anri



Cyl#1 3%




Cyl#1 3%




Cyl#2 14.5%





Cyl#3. 11%




Cyl#4 5%




Cyl#5 72%




Cyl#6 73%

[ChapterM3]

WestBankM4, 0-60motorsports - Thank you guys, I appreciate it - I have a feeling the car is going to be even better than when I first bought it. Let's see!!

M Coupe - Thank you for the reply man - that's exactly what I went with Anri in the first place. I was thinking to myself like damn it, it sucks that this happened, but I love the car so much I need to make sure it's done right the first go around because I don't want to open the motor up ever again if I don't have to. After weeks of research, Anri was 100% the guy for the job, and local to California as well. I mean the amount of calls we had leading up to the pickup, explaining the steps, answering my thousands of questions, etc. also let me know this guy was going above and beyond. I've never been able to connect with a shop at the level of customer service Anri has given me thus far - needless to say I'm excited for the outcome.

[M Coupe]

Anri would be the man I would be shipping my S54 to as well whenever it may be due for a rebuild/refresh. I hope he keeps doing his amazing work for many years to come!

[0-60motorsports]

Good Luck. Hopefully you get the issue resolved.

[WestBankM4]

It's going to come out amazing man, SUBSCRIBED!

Can't wait for Anri's breakdown.