Thin wrench for Lemforder sway bar links

[FFWD]

I tried to install a new set of Lemforder sway bar links today, but my wrench was too thick to hold the flat on the ball joint side while tightening the nut. The flat portion is about 4mm thick and there's a shoulder, so the wrench can't overhang it towards the boot. I looked at Capri, but the 18/19 size is about 4.5 mm thick, so no go. Any other recommendations for a quality thin wrench for this job?

[R1pilot]

Try a bicycle wrench. Park Tools might work.

[nahvkolaj]

I have a set of Pittsburgh wrenches that just fit sway bar links. Not sure if they're that thin anymore but for the price you can just grind one down guilt free. They are nice to have around when l need to bend and grind a custom wrench.

[dukeofchen]

This got the job done for me, in my case I needed a 16mm for the counterhold: https://a.co/d/aHXaPp3


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[01SG]

The Capri super thin 18/19mm will absolutely work. I have it just for the links.

[HennyM3]

FCP has the perfect tool, I've used it multiple times for the sway bar links and has been hassle-free every time

[FFWD]

The Capri super thin 18/19mm will absolutely work. I have it just for the links.

Do you have the same Lemforder links with the shoulder shown in the picture (the area covered by the bottom the the "F")? I measured the flat from the edge to the shoulder and can't get a measurement of more than 3.90 mm. The Capri is advertised as 0.18 in, which is 4.572 mm for the 18/19, so if that's correct, it wouldn't fit once it's installed (and would be pinched between the link and the strut/sway bar during installation). I had 2 difference links installed on my car that I just removed, and I was able to use a full sized wrench on those. I would have loved a reason to get a set of the Capri's, but for now I just grabbed a set of "Grip" from Princess Auto since it was on my way to pick something else up today. I'm not concerned at all about a low quality tool being able to handle the installation, but I will be worrying once I need to remove them after they've become all rusty and crusty.

[01SG]

Do you have the same Lemforder links with the shoulder shown in the picture (the area covered by the bottom the the "F")? I measured the flat from the edge to the shoulder and can't get a measurement of more than 3.90 mm. The Capri is advertised as 0.18 in, which is 4.572 mm for the 18/19, so if that's correct, it wouldn't fit once it's installed (and would be pinched between the link and the strut/sway bar during installation). I had 2 difference links installed on my car that I just removed, and I was able to use a full sized wrench on those. I would have loved a reason to get a set of the Capri's, but for now I just grabbed a set of "Grip" from Princess Auto since it was on my way to pick something else up today. I'm not concerned at all about a low quality tool being able to handle the installation, but I will be worrying once I need to remove them after they've become all rusty and crusty.

Yeah, same Lemforder links. You do have to yank it off once torqued though. It is pinched a little bit, come to think of it. But if the boot doesn't tear, I don't see the harm. Maybe go with that BMW wrench. But the Capri will work.

[cobra]

just get a cheap regular wrench and grind it down thinner

[nyc951]

Try a bicycle wrench. Park Tools might work.

This. Get a set of quality bicycle “cone” wrenches that are used for bike hubs. Don’t get cheap as they bend and strip.

[George Hill]

BMW had a tool for this, it's basically a 16/18 with a portion milled out to allow it to fit. BMW tool number 31 1 140, I think the pn# is 83300494826 but has been discontinued. Just a fyi for anyone in the future.

[PSUEng]

Nice, so the size is 16mm flats on front, and rears are?

[simonnim]

Yup, went to a bike shop and bought a cone wrench.

[FFWD]

Yeah, same Lemforder links. You do have to yank it off once torqued though. It is pinched a little bit, come to think of it. But if the boot doesn't tear, I don't see the harm. Maybe go with that BMW wrench. But the Capri will work.

The shoulder prevents the wrench from ever touching the boot, so that's not the problem. But you've torqued the nut with the wrench as part of the stack, so by prying off the wrench afterward, you technically lose some of that torque. On a sway bar end link, maybe it's not a big deal, but I'm OCD that way.

[01SG]

The shoulder prevents the wrench from ever touching the boot, so that's not the problem. But you've torqued the nut with the wrench as part of the stack, so by prying off the wrench afterward, you technically lose some of that torque. On a sway bar end link, maybe it's not a big deal, but I'm OCD that way.

This is a good point I never thought of. Might be why I had to loctite one of my links recently. It has traditionally not been an issue, but after having them on and off a number of times, one did start coming loose.