Worn Oil Pump Disk - Pics

[OldRanger]

Not much to add aside from the encouragement to replace this part in your engine when you get a chance. Do the VANOS seals and solenoid while you’re in there.

2005 model year; 166K mile original pump disk. Tabs were OK.

[Arith2]

I had 66k on my car when I bought it and both tabs were broken. Bought a VAC one and never looked back.

[Halftim3]

Definitely. Here's mine at 210k. Did you replace/check the chain guide/tensioner?
Isn't the Besian one the "while you're in there" upgraded replacement?

[OldRanger]

Halftim3 - I did. I replaced the chain guide with OEM.

[sapote]

2005 model year; 166K mile original pump disk. Tabs were OK.

This is the worst case of hole enlargement I have seen. Wonder if it is the result of hammering from the tabs or forth/aft rubbing motion of the tabs against the holes. We can tell the tab shoulder touching the disk face (worn mark in the red circle), but the tab/hub cannot slide forth/aft and the disk is locked in the roller bearing inner race groove, so I would think by design there is a small gap between the twos.

[OldRanger]

This is the worst case of hole enlargement I have seen. Wonder if it is the result of hammering from the tabs or forth/aft rubbing motion of the tabs against the holes.

sapote this disk had significantly greater wear than the original holes on the replacement disc Beisan sent me.

The wear pattern on my original disc was odd. I took a video with multiple angles. I was a bit baffled, but gave up trying to mentally solve the problem of how the wear could be so asymmetric. The good news - the old/original holes don’t matter, and I did get my core refund .

[BlueBimmers]

I called in a local expert in 2019 to do Vanos, and we did a lot of "while you're in there" stuff as well: https://chrisparente.com/2019/07/23/...ckdown-e46-m3/
Looking at the pics again, my disk showed some wear marks at only 79K miles:

https://chrisparente.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/ReplacementOilPumpDisk-e1563894078832.jpg

[sapote]

Looking at the pics again, my disk showed some wear marks at only 79K miles:

The disk surface has rubbing mark, but the holes are not enlarged much as compared to OP's disk.

[sapote]

The good news - the old/original holes don’t matter, and I did get my core refund.

It's safer to have your original disk machined instead of using someone's machined disk: the original 4 pistons might not fit well in the new disk and this can affect the oil high pressure.

[OldRanger]

It's safer to have your original disk machined instead of using someone's machined disk: the original 4 pistons might not fit well in the new disk and this can affect the oil high pressure.

That’s an interesting point. Its the first time I’ve thought of it. I didn’t see any cause for concern in that regard, but I agree it is a possibility. This obviously would require you ship it in, wait, and then reinstall (which is inconvenient for a DIYer).

I reviewed the Dr VANOS and Beisan websites. I see that Dr. VANOS offers a 1-day turn for what you suavest, and has a webpage dedicated to repair work instructions. This might give a slight nod to them for any of you deciding on how to approach this repair as Sapote recommends. I didn’t find a similar offering on the Beisan website.

When I combine your recommendation with my opinion that the VANOS seals work should be performed by someone that has experience dealing with small seals in tight spaces and precision tools…it would seem best for most of us to just send in your complete VANOS unit for service. Shipping is not going to be cost prohibitive with an item this size and weight. Frankly, the seals work was difficult, and Ive been rebuilding mountain bike suspension dampers for 12 years. I’m not quite sure how I would have done the seals properly without this dental pick.

[bigjae46]

That’s an interesting point. Its the first time I’ve thought of it. I didn’t see any cause for concern in that regard, but I agree it is a possibility. This obviously would require you ship it in, wait, and then reinstall (which is inconvenient for a DIYer).

I reviewed the Dr VANOS and Beisan websites. I see that Dr. VANOS offers a 1-day turn for what you suavest, and has a webpage dedicated to repair work instructions. This might give a slight nod to them for any of you deciding on how to approach this repair as Sapote recommends. I didn’t find a similar offering on the Beisan website.

When I combine your recommendation with my opinion that the VANOS seals work should be performed by someone that has experience dealing with small seals in tight spaces and precision tools…it would seem best for most of us to just send in your complete VANOS unit for service. Shipping is not going to be cost prohibitive with an item this size and weight. Frankly, the seals work was difficult, and Ive been rebuilding mountain bike suspension dampers for 12 years. I’m not quite sure how I would have done the seals properly without this dental pick.

I would take your exhaust hub and oil pump disc to a machine shop and have them match the holes to the tabs. You could even go for a slight interference fit...which could be a pain to get the VANOS unit back on but you'll have zero slop.

[sapote]

I would take your exhaust hub and oil pump disc to a machine shop and have them match the holes to the tabs. You could even go for a slight interference fit...which could be a pain to get the VANOS unit back on but you'll have zero slop.

Sorry but having an interference fit can lead to cracked hub tab: There is a chance of disk and hub off center due to the disk is on the vanos module which depends on the head stud dowel pins, and so if slight off center then this places too much stress on the driving tabs. I would have 0.005" clearance minimum for tabs and holes.

[02_lsb]

Get OE + Beisan (RIP) = never do it again.

[bigjae46]

Sorry but having an interference fit can lead to cracked hub tab: There is a chance of disk and hub off center due to the disk is on the vanos module which depends on the head stud dowel pins, and so if slight off center then this places too much stress on the driving tabs. I would have 0.005" clearance minimum for tabs and holes.

That's why you use a machine shop, not a battery powered drill and home depot drill bits.

[sapote]

That's why you use a machine shop, not a battery powered drill and home depot drill bits.

I’m talking the vanos module carrying the disk off center with the cam due to stack up tolerances, leading to the disk center off the hub center; not about the two new drilled smaller holes.