VANOS test failed

[OldRanger]

When I did some VANOS maintenance recently, I had trouble perfecting the timing. I eventually just buttoned it up, gave up on a few degrees of accuracy. Drawing on decades of experience racing bicycles, it caught my attention there was ‘slack’ introduced by wear in the timing chain and timing sprockets. I see you’ve replaced the chain, but not the sprockets. They are extremely expensive…probably the reason why they aren’t on the typical list of “what else should I replace while I’m in there”. I think it’s worth mentioning, but maybe not worth the expense of replacing.

But also, I noticed you had Rebuilt Splines (Beisan). What is that?

[Vict0r]

The diaphragm spring is a set of two items, it has flat keyed plate, then the cup washer, S54 has letter "A", S62 has "B". I friend of mine had these flipped, first the cup washer (effectively spring), then the keyed plat, or something like that, and then trying to time the engine the cams would not move at all. so you can try that, before removing VANOS, use the 24mm wrench and try to rock the cams. Before this though, make sure you take the solenoid pack so oil can scape and cams will move. If they don't move, something mechanical is jamming the splines.

If you DO NOT have any codes, they I do not think you have an electronic issue. but first make sure timing is correct, and verify you can actually rock the cams. Another potential is inserting the splines incorrectly, one is shorter than the other. I do not remember which is which. While in there check the timing tensioner, and look for the obvious.

If you want to verify the DME is operational, use Tool32 and run the different APIs independently, there is a thread in the "coding" section here on how to test VANOS using INPA (On the E46 is not possible), but that thread documents how to run VANOS test routines one at a time using Tool32.

I have already checked the position of the diaphragms and the long split on the pump side. Good advice, but unfortunately it is not the problem....

I will try to move the camshafts when I remove the valve cover, to see if they let them move.

I will look at the thread you mention and try to check the control unit with tool32.

thanks for your advice!

[Vict0r]

Nothing is wrong with using new parts, but I think it's better to find the root cause and not blaming the old parts.

After setting the vanos timing, how do you verify the timing is correct?
Turning the crank CW multiple turns and set to TDC, then verify the cams holes are aligned with the bridge pin. But this alone is not enough as the vanos pistons must be touching the caps too during the timing check.

You are right again, Sapote. I don't like changing parts without being sure, but I couldn't find any more logic for my problem...

I have done all the steps you say, but it is true that in the end I did not remove the covers to check if the pistons were in their most rearward position. I'll do this on the weekend!

[maupineda]

Hello maupineda,

thanks for your answer.

I bought the vanos on ebay, but it was brand new and sealed:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/195364907251...4AAOSwZCljLByV

The first few times I assembled it with the S54 springs, and the last time I ordered the S62 ones. I will order bouth new off S54 again, but I'm afraid it won't be the solution...

Do you know how I could check if the DME output is sending the signal?

The diaphragm spring is a set of two items, it has flat keyed plate, then the cup washer, S54 has letter "A", S62 has "B". I friend of mine had these flipped, first the cup washer (effectively spring), then the keyed plat, or something like that, and then trying to time the engine the cams would not move at all. so you can try that, before removing VANOS, use the 24mm wrench and try to rock the cams. Before this though, make sure you take the solenoid pack so oil can scape and cams will move. If they don't move, something mechanical is jamming the splines.

If you DO NOT have any codes, they I do not think you have an electronic issue. but first make sure timing is correct, and verify you can actually rock the cams. Another potential is inserting the splines incorrectly, one is shorter than the other. I do not remember which is which. While in there check the timing tensioner, and look for the obvious.

If you want to verify the DME is operational, use Tool32 and run the different APIs independently, there is a thread in the "coding" section here on how to test VANOS using INPA (On the E46 is not possible), but that thread documents how to run VANOS test routines one at a time using Tool32.

[sapote]

Hello Sapote,

You're right, that's why in the end I redid the head gasket again (looking for some fault).

1) I checked the VANOS timing this last time with a chain tensioning tool, to avoid that the lack of oil pressure could change the timing.

Nothing is wrong with using new parts, but I think it's better to find the root cause and not blaming the old parts.

After setting the vanos timing, how do you verify the timing is correct?
Turning the crank CW multiple turns and set to TDC, then verify the cams holes are aligned with the bridge pin. But this alone is not enough as the vanos pistons must be touching the caps too during the timing check.

[Vict0r]

I don't know if you mentioned it, but how does the engine operate outside of the VANOS test? Any hesitations or does it pull smoothly to redline?

No, the engine does not run perfectly. And when it's hot, it's hard to start... So when it cools down, it starts again at the first time.

[Slideways]

Hello maupineda,

thanks for your answer.

I bought the vanos on ebay, but it was brand new and sealed:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/195364907251...4AAOSwZCljLByV

The first few times I assembled it with the S54 springs, and the last time I ordered the S62 ones. I will order bouth new off S54 again, but I'm afraid it won't be the solution...

Do you know how I could check if the DME output is sending the signal?

I don't know if you mentioned it, but how does the engine operate outside of the VANOS test? Any hesitations or does it pull smoothly to redline?

[Vict0r]

Hello maupineda,

thanks for your answer.

I bought the vanos on ebay, but it was brand new and sealed:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/195364907251?hash=item2d7ca7e8f3:g:Ux4AAOSwZCljLByV

The first few times I assembled it with the S54 springs, and the last time I ordered the S62 ones. I will order bouth new off S54 again, but I'm afraid it won't be the solution...

Do you know how I could check if the DME output is sending the signal?

[maupineda]

Check the hub diaphragm springs and that they are not flipped, this would cause the unit to lock. n would also suggest to not use the S62 items and go back to S54.

[maupineda]

Hello Sapote,

You're right, that's why in the end I redid the head gasket again (looking for some fault).

1) I checked the VANOS timing this last time with a chain tensioning tool, to avoid that the lack of oil pressure could change the timing.





2) Hydraulic unit I mean the vanos itself. I made first seals again, but in the end I replaced the whole VANOS (in case it was losing oil pressure inside):






and as you rightly say, I have changed things that make no sense, because they worked before and have only been disassembled and reassembled... 🤔😰

Where did you source the new unit from?

[Vict0r]

Problem happened only after removing the head -- which means removing the vanos hubs and electrical connectors. These are the two things I would focus on. How do you verify the vanos timing with engine off?

2. Hydraulic unit -- do you mean the VANOS accumulator can?

Hello Sapote,

You're right, that's why in the end I redid the head gasket again (looking for some fault).

1) I checked the VANOS timing this last time with a chain tensioning tool, to avoid that the lack of oil pressure could change the timing.





2) Hydraulic unit I mean the vanos itself. I made first seals again, but in the end I replaced the whole VANOS (in case it was losing oil pressure inside):






and as you rightly say, I have changed things that make no sense, because they worked before and have only been disassembled and reassembled... 🤔😰

[sapote]

1. 6 months ago I did the headgasket (completely checked and with new valve stem seals, valve seats,... Since then I have a problem with the VANOS, which is killing me: When I do the VANOS test, the test is aborted because when trying to advance the intake shaft, it does not move even one degree! nothing! (the DME has any fault code)


2- New Hydraulic unit (BMW)

Problem happened only after removing the head -- which means removing the vanos hubs and electrical connectors. These are the two things I would focus on. How do you verify the vanos timing with engine off?

2. Hydraulic unit -- do you mean the VANOS accumulator can?

[Vict0r]

What device or software are you using to run the VANOS test? Can you run a complete test on another car?

Does the engine perform as it should since the DME is not throwing any error codes?

I´m using a Launch X431 and I can run the complete test on another car (on my car too, before I did the headgaste)

Anyway next weekend I'll try again with DIS and Tool32.

[Slideways]

What device or software are you using to run the VANOS test? Can you run a complete test on another car?

Does the engine perform as it should since the DME is not throwing any error codes?

[Vict0r]

Worth having a look at getting new cam sensors?

Regards

Hi,

thanks for your answer. Both camshaft sensors are new.... 😓