Tested and Ready 70° and 75° Thermostat

[Anri]

Gents,

To each to our won for sure on this one.
Not very constructive replies..

Inline 6 cylinder engine Cast Iron block
is waaaaay too long.

When the cooled water from the radiator
enters from the cylinder 1 it takes the heat
up to cylinder 3 aka Bank-1

Starting from Bank-2, 4-6, the water already
took the heat from Bank-1. Now Bank-2
has Hot water to work with and its no longer
cool when it entered the block.

Factory design water pump impeller and
pulley ratios are designed to work at 8000rpm
without making Cavitation, this is the concentration
I am sure we all agree on this one. Mechanical
pump are always concentrated to work at hi rpm
and low rpms are always compromised. (this is
were the Electrical water pump is priceless one
can adjust the flow at low speed to move the
water faster)

Lower range of RPM is compromised when
the water is slowed down tremendously and
thus why Bank-2 works always hot vs Bank-1

Obvious reason why BMW moved to step water
temp gauge starting from E32/E34. On the E24
E28 when the temp raised degree by degree I can see it
on the gauge..I can see when the clutch engages and
brings the temps down...isn't that obvious ? all the S54
cylinder head gaskets are always burned at Bank-2 okay
not talking about the ones that suffered damages
via detonation.

Why BMW put the EGT sensor on Bank-2 not Bank-1 ?
Bank-2 runs always hot

The Block Deck height on S54 is 217.5mm+/-
How come no one talks about that BMW Motorsport
raised the Floor by around 15-17mm ? (I have to look at my notes)
its to increase the rigidity in the main bearings
area by taking some space form the water bath.

On S38 at the same deck height of 217.5mm the water
bath is deeper down by those 15-17mm is what I am
comparing with so they did good on block from 1965
but went backward on 2000 engine block.

With connecting rod ratio of 1.52 the siamesed
bores do receive a lot of heat and with the combo
of 8000rpm for sure its Heat-Bomb

How come no one talks about that the EGT from
the headers which easily reaches ~850/~1000F/ 590°C or
so are located around no more than 1 finger away
from the block, fantastic, you have 900F radiant heat
going directly to the cast iron heat sponge.

I will provide very deep detail data on Jonathan's
freshly put S54 together, you will see.

Starting from Jonathans M3 I am including this in every
engine build.

All arguments and debates are all welcomed.

Regards,
Anri

[digger]

It's not the 70 Tstat early opening is desirable, but it opens more at operating temp when compared to stock Tstat is desirable.

The early opening and lower operating temp is desirable from a pure perfomance persective though assuing some adjustments. if you arent able to consisently operate at the t-stat temp or thereabouts on track then it's fairly pointless

[sapote]

Not sure I understand. Isn't the engine designed to be most efficient at 80 degrees? Willing to learn.

Yes for stock car for normal driving. On race track the AC condenser blocks some air, and the engine generates more heat, so a 70C Tstat would open more at 80C for more coolant flow to counter the higher generated heat.

It's not the 70 Tstat early opening is desirable, but it opens more at operating temp when compared to stock Tstat is desirable.

[nahvkolaj]

Not sure I understand. Isn't the engine designed to be most efficient at 80 degrees? Willing to learn.

[bigjae46]

I think for a track car with the AC removed and has a properly performing cooling system, I'd would recommend the stock 80 deg t-stat. My coolant temps bounce around 170 degrees so the t-stat is opening and closing.

But for a track car with AC...I think 70deg would work great.

[ChapterM3]

Doesn't surprise me one bit, can't wait to see what you've come up with Anri!

[simonnim]

Love it. Look forward to it.

[Anri]

Gents,

I added 75° options as well for Cold states.

The 70°-75° are all tested and it works great and no Check engine Light
is triggered so no need for adjustments in the ECU.

After many tests here is the data from the OEM spec:
At 80° Opens 1mm at 80°, 83°~3mm at 85° is fully open
Completely Closed at 77° +/-1°

70°. At 70° opens 1mm at 73° ~3mm at 75° fully open
Completely closed at 66° +/-1°

75° is right in between the OEM and the 70°.

$220 Shipped


Regards,
Anri.