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    Help diagnosing on throttle clunk after rear end refresh

    Hey guys, I posted a few things about this in other threads, but I’m officially calling for help now.

    Trying to diagnose some exaggerated on throttle clunking after a rear end and subframe refresh. The car is a work in progress and has solid CMP subframe mounts, PowerFlex front differential mount, ECS poly rear differential mounts. Rear wheel bearings are brand new.

    I’m checking everything and I have not found anything loose underneath. I have not dropped the exhaust to check the driveshaft center but I know I torqued that stuff. I do have the rear interior removed, which I know contributes to NVH. However, I feel like this sound is maybe not just the poly diff mounts doing the thing they do.

    First video is low speed driving around my neighborhood, you can hear the clunking as I go on it off throttle. Second and third videos are showing the amount of play and sounds I can hear when I’m under the car and moving the hubs around. Is this amount of play and these sounds normal? I feel like I might be missing something obvious and I could really use some help!





    http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
    '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
    '01 M3, Imola/black

    #2
    2nd and 3rd video look OK to me. 1st video almost sounds like the standard creaking/squeaking from poly to me...

    Put it on jackstands and have someone put it in gear and see what is happening underneath and where exactly the sound is coming from.

    Sent from my SM-S911U1 using Tapatalk


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    All jobs done as diy - clutch, rod bearings, rear subframe rebush, vanos, headers, cooling, suspension, etc.

    PM for help in NorCal. Have a lot of specialty tools - vanos, pilot bearing puller, bushing press kit, valve adjustment, fcab, wheel bearing, engine support bar, etc.

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      #3
      Could be just an old LSD with clunk. Place the camera under the diff then drive forward/backward to see if the diff moves too much. To verify if the diff really clunks: repeat the same drive as in 1st video but press the clutch pedal before let off the gas during slow down to avoid engine braking. If no clunk then I think it's the diff clutch slips and spiders hitting side gears clunk.

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        #4
        I did that, the clunking sounds are definitely originating from the diff/driveshaft. Checked what I can access without dropping the exhaust, all is tight. FWIW it’s not that bad or loud sounding under the car, it’s worse in the cabin while driving…
        http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
        '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
        '01 M3, Imola/black

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          #5
          Originally posted by sapote View Post
          Could be just an old LSD with clunk. Place the camera under the diff then drive forward/backward to see if the diff moves too much. To verify if the diff really clunks: repeat the same drive as in 1st video but press the clutch pedal before let off the gas during slow down to avoid engine braking. If no clunk then I think it's the diff clutch slips and spiders hitting side gears clunk.
          I’m sending the car away tomorrow for something unrelated, but when it’s back I will throw a GoPro under there. Good call.
          http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
          '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
          '01 M3, Imola/black

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            #6
            Back when I did mine the M clunk increased when I went from oem to poly bushings.
            06 ZCP SMG | HTE CSL MAP QuaranTune | SL CSL Airbox | Eventuri Scoop | DMG Strut Bar | RE El Diablo | CPI Euro200R | AP Headers | Porsche BBK | ST XTA | TMS 3-Pulleys/F-Sway/Mono FCAB | AKG Trans/diff/Subframe/RTAB | SPL RCA | SGT SCZA Trunk | ACL | Beisan | Redish | AFD E85 |

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              #7
              Driveshaft CV joint ?


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                #8
                Originally posted by Stilt View Post
                Driveshaft CV joint ?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                This has been suggested a few times now, how will I know if the joint is toast? Play/slack? Guess I’ll be dropping the exhaust next.
                http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                '01 M3, Imola/black

                Comment


                  #9
                  Did you grease the cv before you put it all back together?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

                    This has been suggested a few times now, how will I know if the joint is toast? Play/slack? Guess I’ll be dropping the exhaust next.
                    video 2 & 3 look normal so I don't think it's the CV joints. But you can check this way: jack the wheels off ground, then rock one shaft and check for plays on the CV and should have zero.

                    For the long driveshaft, I think you can see the CV at the end of the heat-shield.

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                      #11
                      Gonna get back under there this weekend and check all
                      of this lol. Front diff mount bolt is high on the suspect list too.
                      http://www.natehasslerphoto.com
                      '99 M3, Hellrot/Sand Beige, slicktop
                      '01 M3, Imola/black

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                        #12
                        Watching this thread for resolution. I'm have the clunks also
                        Last edited by RC Fresh; 04-05-2024, 12:07 PM.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Nate047 View Post
                          Gonna get back under there this weekend and check all
                          of this lol. Front diff mount bolt is high on the suspect list too.
                          Highly unlikely that this is the cause, but certain coilover springs have an orientation. For example, Ohlins R&T springs must have the script on the spring pointing towards the wheel; otherwise, you can get this binding and creaking sound. Mainly happens when loading up that corner or going up a steep incline. When the springs are oriented the right way, the creaking goes away.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Poly is garbage...that's where I'd start. I really don't understand why people use aftermarket poly anything. Rarely does a vendor ever test their product beyond it fitting. Poly has the downside characteristics of OEM rubber AND solid - its soft, noisy, needs periodic replacement, and allows undesired movement - with no real improvement except it maybe deflects a little less?

                            Solid is noisy but doesn't need to be replaced and eliminates most unwanted movement.

                            But I am biased.

                            You can grab the driveshaft and see if there is any radial play in the CV. Or you can remove the CV and inspect the ball bearings for flat spotting. If you do that, then you should definitely repack the CV. You can also check for excessive lash in the diff gears. Hold the rear wheels or apply the brakes and see how much you can turn the driveshaft. It should only be a very small amount - maybe 1/8"?

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Nate047 View Post

                              This has been suggested a few times now, how will I know if the joint is toast? Play/slack? Guess I’ll be dropping the exhaust next.
                              Here:


                              Causes of driveline vibration when you're accelerating around 2-3 RPM.


                              My M3 produces a metalic sounding clunk when shifting in lowers gears. This is how i found out the root cause.Part 2: https://youtu.be/r53p49pxRq4

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