Any reviews on DS WORKS braces, any experiences or issues

[fattycharged]

SpaceJockey hah! You just reminded me I installed the Yurkan version I bought, this one looks so much better than mine! 😂




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[SpaceJockey]

I recently installed one as well (thanks fattycharged!) and am happy with the finished product. I had a crack repaired and reinforcement plates welded in place, then added this brace at the top side for additional support. I admit that I suspect this seat friendly version does less to prevent front flexing compared to the full tubular, seat delete version. However, I believe it adds SOME extra support compared to a standard 4-point rear brace.

[fattycharged]

Hey all

Any photos or advice on this 6 point behind seat version

No welding inside the cabin for this 1?

I have this installed.

No welding in cabin….unless you have failures that need repair


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[bigjae46]

Hey all

Any photos or advice on this 6 point behind seat version

No welding inside the cabin for this 1?

I think anything that is not welded will have a limited reinforcing effect.

[BL92]

Hey all

Any photos or advice on this 6 point behind seat version

No welding inside the cabin for this 1?

[fattycharged]

Rear seats delete is not really an option. The car should stay as stock as possible with avoiding welding

You are going to want to get over the welding aversion, you will need to make the necessary repairs.

Or just use some duct tape and send it

[karter16]

I just discovered one popped spot-weld on the left rear panel next to the shock absorber. It is known that you stich-weld this area between the three spot welds. Has anyone made experiences with glueing the two panels together rather than welding in this area?

How would you glue it? You'd need to remove the panel to prepare the surfaces to epoxy bond it. You can't just squirt some glue into the gap.

As I said before the right thing to do is to weld it, this latest discovery just adds more weight to that advice.


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[Patman]

I just discovered one popped spot-weld on the left rear panel next to the shock absorber. It is known that you stich-weld this area between the three spot welds. Has anyone made experiences with glueing the two panels together rather than welding in this area?

[bmw m3 s50]

Rear seats delete is not really an option. The car should stay as stock as possible with avoiding welding

If you can't delete the rear seats then you will not be able to use the 6 point brace with the front gusset cups. You would be limited to the 4 point brace. The 6 point brace that works with the rear seats has a difference mounting design then the 6 point brace used for the deleted rear seats as it was already mentioned.

[Patman]

This ^^^^^^

Only thing is you have to get the rear seat delete version, the 6 point brace that works with rear seats will not work with the gusset cups.

Rear seats delete is not really an option. The car should stay as stock as possible with avoiding welding

[bmw m3 s50]

What I would do is just get the DS Works brace, and he makes a "gusset cup" kind of extra brace thing that is the exact right size to work with his brace. Just do that to save yourself the pains of mixing brands where size might not match up (ask me how I know)

This ^^^^^^

Only thing is you have to get the rear seat delete version, the 6 point brace that works with rear seats will not work with the gusset cups.

[Patman]

I also don't weld, so I hired a mobile welder to come to my place and do it. Cost me about $500 for him to do the RACP plates, some minor crack repairs, and stitch weld the wheel arch on the left side. I did all the removal and prep myself beforehand, and the finishing coats and reassembly as well.

I wouldn't worry about welding something in the interior of your car on principle alone. Just get a good welder who isn't reckless, and cover your interior with something if you can't or don't want to remove certain pieces. Do you have visible cracks inside the cabin of the car?

My cracks look pretty similar to those karter's had on the right front up cavity underneath the rear seats. Maybe a little minor then his ones. On the underfloor there are two cracks visible (haven't removed the subframe yet). Front right and left rear mounting point, so I definitely want to go with installing the epoxy+rivet Vince skins here

[Nate047]

That thread is super nice to to read and gives a lot of very helpful information. Thank you for sharing!

Since I cannot weld and want to avoid it in any kind of way in the car's interior, is it possible after stop drilling the cracks to fill it up with a specific kind of glue/epoxy?

I also don't weld, so I hired a mobile welder to come to my place and do it. Cost me about $500 for him to do the RACP plates, some minor crack repairs, and stitch weld the wheel arch on the left side. I did all the removal and prep myself beforehand, and the finishing coats and reassembly as well.

I wouldn't worry about welding something in the interior of your car on principle alone. Just get a good welder who isn't reckless, and cover your interior with something if you can't or don't want to remove certain pieces. Do you have visible cracks inside the cabin of the car?

[Nate047]

Hi guys,

can anyone report if the Practical Performance RnD gusset Cups installation can be combined with a 6point brace that keeps the rear seats (yurkan e.g.)? I'd like to go with the following setup to reinforce my M3's RACP:

- Vince Skins
- Vince gusset Cups
- 6point brace that keeps the rear seats
- solid fully aluminium bushes for the subframe

IMHO this should make my non track M3 Coupe street bullet proof.


Can anyone help me out?

Thanks in advance
Patrick

What I would do is just get the DS Works brace, and he makes a "gusset cup" kind of extra brace thing that is the exact right size to work with his brace. Just do that to save yourself the pains of mixing brands where size might not match up (ask me how I know)

[karter16]

That thread is super nice to to read and gives a lot of very helpful information. Thank you for sharing!

Since I cannot weld and want to avoid it in any kind of way in the car's interior, is it possible after stop drilling the cracks to fill it up with a specific kind of glue/epoxy?

Others might know of a way but this is one of those cases where, imho, you really need to weld to get the integrity back in the piece as much as possible (I'm certainly not one of those people that thinks welding is the solution to everything, but I do believe it's the right way to address this problem). It would be worth seeing what others suggest as well (I'm just one random person on the internet), but if it was me I wouldn't look to just drill it out or epoxy it, I'd be looking to get someone in to weld it (even though it's a hassle). In terms of welding inside the car I think those concerns can be mitigated the same way I did by using blankets and matting to build an enclosure inside the car, and with some good extraction for ventilation.