Subframe Reinforment Cost too much?

[bhoom_S54]

Hello,

I wanted to do some preventive work on my recently purchased e46 M3. Thought I'd start with subframe.
I reached out to my local reputable shop who are know for BMW and e46 M3s.

Here's my estimate:
Bimmerworld Subframe Kit 124.99
Diff Bushing $38.50
BW Poly subframe bushing $261
Axel Nut $15.03
Exhaust Pipe Gasket $47.76
LABOR $3990
Other fees $70
TOTAL: $4563

Is this too much? I read older threads and people pay about 1.5-2k for this.
The parts cost is not bad but that labor cost?!?!?

Thoughts?

I'm located in Portland, Oregon if anyone has shop recommendations.

[bmwfnatic]

The BW reinforcement kit is trash, I explained why in great detail in another thread not too long ago, paying 4500$ to have that useless crap fitted is insane.

You most likely got the “fuck you”-price, as I’ve done a few of these now and I don’t like doing this job.

Do some research on which reinforcement kits we deem decent on this forum (Redish, CMP, Vince, etc.)

Perhaps also post your location so other forum members can guide you to a better shop.

[bhoom_S54]

Gotcha. I'm in Portland Oregon. The shop asked me for my usage of the car and that's what they recommended. Thought it was really high prices.
thank you!

[oceansize]

It will take a quality shop with experience an hour, maybe two, to drop the entire rear end unless they hit some serious rust or something. If they are figuring 20 hours that is $200 per hour.

I definitely feel you got the f$ck you price. Does this shop claim to have experience?

1. Don't use the BW kit
2. Don't use poly (get solid subframe bushings).
3. Are they installing a e36 diff busing because the e46 bushing is built into the diff cover and it doesn't cost a mere 38.50. Do not use poly here, do not, do not, do not.
4. Add topside reinforcement.

[bhoom_S54]

It will take a quality shop with experience an hour, maybe two, to drop the entire rear end unless they hit some serious rust or something. If they are figuring 20 hours that is $200 per hour.

I definitely feel you got the f$ck you price. Does this shop claim to have experience?

1. Don't use the BW kit
2. Don't use poly (get solid subframe bushings).
3. Are they installing a e36 diff busing because the e46 bushing is built into the diff cover and it doesn't cost a mere 38.50. Do not use poly here, do not, do not, do not.
4. Add topside reinforcement.

I read on other forums where people recommend this shop. I don't know if I feel comfortable putting their name on here.
they had asked me what my use case was and I mentioned that it would be weekend car where it would be driven hard and maybe tracking in next year or two.

[Nate047]

It’s a shitty, sucky job to do. They don’t want to do it unless you’re willing to pay a high price.

What I did was do all the removal and prep myself, and hire a mobile welder to come to my house. I found a guy who had done a few of these cars and had a portfolio of really nice other welding work, I paid him $550 to repair a few small cracks and install the underside plates, and remove a couple of stripped fasteners. It took him like 3 hours. I was happy with his work and would recommend that route if you have time, space, and the requisite self loathing to deal with the stripping and prep of the body. That part sucks a lot of ass.

One part of the job that takes longer than you’d think is actually just the curing time on various coatings to seal and protect everything. The shop might be charging you a little just for all of the time your car will occupy a hoist while it’s drying and they can’t use the service bay for something else. But mostly they are just giving you the fuck you price.

[oceansize]

I read on other forums where people recommend this shop. I don't know if I feel comfortable putting their name on here.
they had asked me what my use case was and I mentioned that it would be weekend car where it would be driven hard and maybe tracking in next year or two.

That is fine, but don't use poly. Just don't, particularly on a street car. Also should add I'm assuming your RACP isn't completely screwed with major cracks.

[S54330Ci]

I would recommend AR Motorsports (in the Portland area) - assuming this is not the shop you received the quote from. They will not be the cheapest, but their work is first-rate.

Until you drop the sub-frame, you won't know what lies beneath (ie rust). Your labor quote might be a worse-case scenario.

AR Motorsports (ar-motorsports.com)

[Notan_S54]

I’m also in PNW and got my subframe done for about 1800 with new bushings in the entire rear end (rtab, diff, and subframe)

[bigjae46]

That is fine, but don't use poly. Just don't, particularly on a street car. Also should add I'm assuming your RACP isn't completely screwed with major cracks.

Agreed. Poly is useless trash. Solid for subframe bushings no matter the usage.

[bhoom_S54]

I would recommend AR Motorsports (in the Portland area) - assuming this is not the shop you received the quote from. They will not be the cheapest, but their work is first-rate.

Until you drop the sub-frame, you won't know what lies beneath (ie rust). Your labor quote might be a worse-case scenario.

AR Motorsports (ar-motorsports.com)

Yeah about that...........

[bhoom_S54]

I’m also in PNW and got my subframe done for about 1800 with new bushings in the entire rear end (rtab, diff, and subframe)

Mind telling me where?

[elrichmeister]

I just wrote a post looking for the same thing in SoCal.

Biggest price difference is whether the both top and bottom is addressed, or just bottom. Quotes for both sides is considerably higher.
I'm still debating on if i want to get the top side done. Kinda feeling like buy once cry once

[EthanolTurbo]

If you want to do a vacation, Kaiv does the subframe for $1800ish here in San Diego.

[bhoom_S54]

If you want to do a vacation, Kaiv does the subframe for $1800ish here in San Diego.

I got fam in Bay area..maybe a trip from Portland to Bay to San Diego.